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5/12/2009 1:02:51 PM EDT
This is my first time to remove a front site post and install a low profile gas block.. I got it all put together, but I'm worried. The Brownell's video on youtube says to line up the gas block on the barrell "by sight". Is that all you can do? If the gas hole on the barrell isn't perfectly lined up with the gas hole on the gas block, will the rifle simply not function, or could it explode? I wont be able to shoot until this weekend so....

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

By the way, the finished product:
5/12/2009 1:42:45 PM EDT
[#1]
I would think the only think that would happen is that the bolt might not completely cycle.  So you might get a FTE because of the lack of pressure pushing the BCG back.
5/13/2009 9:55:06 AM EDT
[#2]
Any other input would e=be greatly appreciated!
5/13/2009 10:05:26 AM EDT
[#3]
when I did my did my daniel defense lo pro gas block I did it by sight and made tick marks on the barrel and the gas block.  Also to confirm you can block one end of the barrel, and blow air through the other end, and feel the air come out of the gas tube.  As you turn the gas block you can feel the difference if the hole isnt lined up properly.  On mine the hole in the gas block was a little larger so there seems to be some room for error.
5/13/2009 12:19:45 PM EDT
[#4]
I just dimpled my barrel for my Troy LP Gas Block this weekend.  I did 2 things to line up the block to make the dimple marks; you may only need one.  

Found a paper clip roughly the same size as the gas port, trial fitted the gas block and bent the paper clip to the right length to fish it into the gas tube opening and into the gas port in the barrel.  It gave you a fair idea where the gas port sat in relation to the gas block, BUT not very exact.

[EDIT:]Sorry, that was just too long in detail, the common sense reader digest version;

I wrapped a piece of paper around the barrel, tapped it and marked the gas port on the paper.  Took the paper off, so it forms a cylinder, and flattened it, the edges folded, with the mark for the gas port on one edge, the other resulting folded edge will be exactly opposite the gas port.  Put the paper cylinder back on the barrel, line up one edge to the gas port the other mark a line for your dimples.

Put the gas block on without the set screws, line up the holes over the line, put in and tighten one set screw to hold the block.  I tried a center punch to make a mark for my drill, it ended up off center, so I just put the bit down the screw hole, I was careful and it did NOT hit the threads.  

If your NOT using handgaurd end caps, I'd suggest you set the block at the same spot as if you the end cap was there, that likely will center the gas block better over the gas port (fore-aft).

Call it stupid, but I want to use a bayonet lug, and the geometry of my 16" middy works out to use the clamp on bayonet lug, I had to shave 1/8" off the front of the gas block and set it back as far as possible to get the bayonet at the proper spot on the FH.  I may be cursing if I get a short stroking rifle because I did that, and I'll have to pull the gas block and re-dimple and move it.  I think I'm OK, but my troy gas block has the opening pretty darn close to the gas port on the barrel.
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