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Posted: 7/13/2008 2:13:06 PM EDT
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All: My son and I finally finished our lower build to include the installation of the CAR stock.  I tried a function check once I temporarily snapped the upper off of my Colt AR15 SP1 to the new lower reciever assembly. The following occurred;1. The hammer will cock when the bolt is cycled. 2. The hammer will not fall when the trigger is pulled and the selector switch is on "Safe." 3. The hammer will fall when the trigger is pulled and the selector switch is on "Fire." 4. The trigger will not reset unless the bolt is cycled. I tried holding the trigger to the rear like we did in the military and cycled the bolt to see if the trigger will reset. It won't until I cycle the bolt again.  5. The hammer on my Colt AR15 has a cut out on its face that the hammer in my lower parts kit does not. What am I doing wrong?  Is there a different functions check for the new AR15s these days? Thank You
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So while holding the trigger(hammer forward), the hammer won't come back and lock onto the trigger until the bolt is cycled? That's normal operation. Unless I'm totally confused as to what you mean. |
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Pull trigger to release hammer. Then hold trigger to the rearm charge weapon. Bolt should cycle and the hammer shoudl be on the disconnector, Let go of the trigger, you should here the click of the hammer dropping off the disconnector and onto the sear hook. Pull the trigger hammer shoudl drop. |
| Unless I am reading it wrong he expects it to be ready to fire again as soon as he fires. He pulls the trigger and then he immediately expects the trigger to be ready to pull again. But instead he has to cycle the bolt again. Sounds like it is working properly to me. |
2FALable: I am not hearing the click as I release the trigger after charging while holding it to the rear and releasing. Thank You |
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OK so assuming you don't hear or feel the click, if you pull the trigger again, does the hammer drop from that point? Or does it sound like the hammer is dropping immediately after charging with the trigger to the rear? If this is the case check your fire control parts, make sure you installed the disconnector right and make certain you installed the disconnector spring between it and the trigger. |
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OK: I think I know where yall are coming from on this. I have my completed lower on my desk right now. Here is what I can do with it; 1. The hammer is cocked: I can switch the safety to fire and ride the hammer down with my thumb. 2. The hammer is cocked again, and I ride the hammer down with my thumb after I pull the trigger. I hold the trigger to the rear and manually re cock the hammer. It will not engage until I let off of the trigger. |
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Just a thought. Doing a function check on just the lower seems a little counter-productive. I realize it's mostly a trigger functions check, but I like to know that ALL of my rifle is working like it should. That being said... What do you mean by "Ride the hammer down?" Do you mean manually cocking the hammer? Here's what I'd do: 1. Put the rifle together (Unloaded, of course) 2. Ensure it's on safe. 3. Charge the weapon normally. 4. Switch Weapon to Fire. 5. Squeeze and hold trigger. (Notice the HOLD bit. Keep it pulled back all the way.) 6. While holding the trigger back, recharge the weapon. 7. Release the trigger. On step seven, again, you SHOULD hear a Click, and the trigger should NOT spring up to fire. I've never heard a weapon that doesn't click, but as they explained earlier, there could be a reason with the spring being strong. After this, I'd do the following. 8. Switch Weapon to safe. 9. Squeeze trigger. (Should not fire.) 10. Switch weapon to fire. 11. Squeeze trigger. (Should fire.) The trigger should engage (Read: NOT FIRE), even with the trigger pulled all the way back. If it DOESN'T engage, that sounds like it could end up full-auto. |
OK that step right there ^^^^^^^^^^^^ With the hammer uncocked. With the trigger held to the rear. Manually pushing the hammer all the way back to a "cocked" position SHOULD engage the hammer on the disconnector hook (just to be sure that's the flat metal hook installed in the middle of the slot that runs the length of the trigger.) Once the trigger is released the hammer should drop from the disconnector hook, to the sear hook on the trigger itself.  What I'm reading in the above is the only way the hammer catches and does not return to an uncocked position is if the trigger is at rest and NOT pulled to the rear. If that is the case you've installed the disconnector incorrectly, left out the disconnector spring, or have a FUBAR'd part. Pic of the disconnector installed in the trigger.  That hook is where the hammer should catch and lock on to with the trigger pulled. (Otherwise it would run in an unsafe full auto type mode as there is nothing to stop the hammer from following the carrier home) Once the trigger is released it should drop off the disconnector hook and catch on the firing hook at the front of the trigger making the snap, pop, or click we keep talking about. If it is not doing those things you need to pull the fire control parts and see what's up. |
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All: I am a bonehead for not figuring this out on my own. It was so simple that I am ashamed to admit it, yet am greatfull that I did not try anything without consulting here first. I did dissasemble my lower fcg while on active duty many years ago. I remember thinking that I would never ever try something so foolish again. I guess that means I am foolish in my forties. As one of the NCO instructors at building 4 used to say at Fort Benning "must be hooked on phonics." I finally solved the problem with my lower reciever. After reading your considerate answers, I once again questioned if I put something in wrong. I looked at the diagrams you sent to me and I discovered that I did not install the spring under the disconnector. 1. Thanks to all who helped out. 2. I am much relieved that I did not try to fire my weapon in this condition. 3. I do not own class III weapons and did not want to experience this without the benefit of actually going through the hoops to buy class III instead of experiencing it unexpectedly. 4. I now must wait patiently until after school starts to buy the upper reciever from M&A. 5. Does any one on this forum have a DIY recipie for a single point sling? |
I'm going to challenge you on this one. A foolish man is one too proud to ask for help. It does not appear to me that you are foolish at all. What you are is human and ya made a mistake. That's the way this journey goes. Further you were willing to admit you made a mistake and that isn't foolish either. What's most frightening is the BATF's recent examples of not caring about mistakes or malfunctions and their willingness to toss you is prison for them. Here's a download link to a mirror of an arfcom single point sling solution. pdf download |
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