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Posted: 3/15/2008 8:36:55 AM EDT
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I just free foated an AR 10 barrel so I had to remove the A2 flash hider. My question is, after the FH is touching the crush washer, how much more do I need to tighten it. I read somewhere on the site that too tight can cause accuracy to suffer? TIA. 
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| I've read that hand tightened is the way to go. However I've heard that sometimes a little tension (stretch) on the end of the barrel improves harmonics and accuracy. I'm not sure. With the A2 flash hider I have, I had to tighten more to get the holes to orient upwards. I would suggest hand tightening, shooting a few groups, tighten a quarter turn, shooting a few groups, etc and see what happens to accuracy. I'd be interested to know what results you get. |
| Curious to hear more on this because I am about to swap out my A2 for a JP/Cooley brake on my AR10. I also bought a set of These so I don't have to go ape-shit on it while torquing it down to get it timed right. |
I just found this under the Headspace and torque values thread. Torque Values: Compensator (Flash Suppressor) - 15 to 20 Ft. Lbs. Barrel Nut - 30 Ft. lbs. Minimum, not to exceed 80 Ft. Lbs. to align the next slot in the barrel nut. Carrier Key Screws - 35 INCH pounds to 40 INCH pounds. Lower Receiver Extension (Buffer Tube) Rifle - 35 to 39 Ft. Lbs. Carbine - Tighten the locking nut to 40 INCH pounds plus or minus 2 INCH pounds. |
I may go with that method as well. I want to check bullet groups with no FH, with the FH, and with an actual muzzle brake. I think I had my FH torqued a bit too tight when I reinstalled it, because my bullet groups were not as tight. Or I just can't shoot worth a damn. 
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