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Posted: 11/3/2007 8:21:33 PM EDT
| ok guys. this is my first build and im finished with the lower. I got a rra lower and gave it a nice dpms lower parts kit. I want to know if i can coat the lower in the gunkote or alumahyde finishes that brownells has. Which product is better, gunkote or alumahyde? I was curious to know if anyone had actually done this themselves and how it worked. I was apprehensive because of the finishes on the lowers and was unsure if it would take in its factory condition or if it would need to be blasted. all help is appreciated. |
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I've Gunkoted a couple of my AR's where the upper and lower didn't match. I did blast them, but from a distance. Just to rough up the original finish a little. I've never used the other stuff you're talking about so I can't comment on it. If you use Gunkote, get all your parts ready and spray them at the same time. I've got a few half full cans laying around that wont spray anymore. You don't have to set the can down for long and they're done. I know they sell extra nozzels or whatever but I have not gotten around to getting any. |
little hint: when you are done using anything like this, (spraypaint etc) turn the can upside down and spray until the color changes (the sound should change too). this clears the nozzle of all excess paint and prevents clogging. trust me, it works and will save you money. |
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No sorry, it doesnt work. You're right about spray paint but this stuff is almost like spraying glue. Now that I think about it, I'm not even sure if it's just the nozzel that's clogging up. The first time I used the stuff I had the can stop spraying on me after doing half the gun, either the upper or lower I can't remember. Anyway, I popped the nozzel off and soaked it in a jar of thinner and then tryed poking it clean with needles but it still would'nt spray. I had to buy another can to finish the rifle. The second time I used the stuff I got smart and had all parts ready to go before I started spraying but I could tell it was clogging up as I was getting close to being done. I'd spray the gun a little, then flip the can to try to clear the nozzel before going back to spraying the gun but I could tell it was a loosing battle so I gave up and consentrated on the gun. It even spit a big glob on my lower that I never got looking right. I tryed the can again as the parts were drying but no go. |
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I just did an 80% lower and an old M16 upper with matte black Gunkote this morning. The stuff goes on great with a cheap airbrush from Harbor Freight. The only negative comment I have is that the sheen is not really a true flat. It has a bit of shininess to it. Not really glossy, but not flat either. Looks OK though. Perhaps with a few days of continued curing it will get more dull. I'll post a picture later today. |
Sandblasted both pieces as per Brownell's recommendation. This produces a rougher surface than glass beads which improves adhesion. Final cleaning/degreasing before application of the finish was with trichlorethane. Gunkote sprays nicely from an airbrush. Does not tend to run at all. Final bake at 300 degrees for 30 minutes and it was fully cured. I assembled the whole thing about 2 hours after removing the receivers from the oven. |
How hot was the part when spraying ,,it has to to be so warm that the gunkote dries the same moment it hits the part |
| great info and thanks guys. the reason im asking about the gunkote is because i assembled the lower and chipped away a very small area of the anodizing near the bolt release when i was pressing in the detent with a pair of "tape wrapped" pliars, and i do mean "TAPE WRAPPED" HEAVILY WRAPPED. i am still unsure as to how this happened but it did nonetheless. Are there any smaller measures to fix this uncitely little area that nobody in their right mind but me would ever notice? seriously guys its tiny, but i cant stand it....thanks again |
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