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7/17/2007 6:09:45 PM EDT
Hey guys, I'm looking at my barrel, with the muzzle brake and crush washer, and the brake doesnt line up like it's supposed to. the directions say "Tighten the MB a minimum of 90 degrees (1/4 turn) but no more than 450 degrees until the top of the MB (small web) is at the top of the barrel. does that mean that I just rank it down as hard as I can until it lines up? when i put it on hand tight the top of the MB is only about 1/8th of a turn past the top of the barrel, does this mean that I have to torque it all the way around again?

Thanks,
Tom
7/17/2007 6:12:52 PM EDT
[#1]
Yes, you'll have to turn it approx 315 deg.  
7/17/2007 6:22:57 PM EDT
[#2]
alright, thanks. that's what I thought, just wanted to make sure before I started.
7/17/2007 6:58:13 PM EDT
[#3]
ok, this is alot harder to do than i thought it was going to be...is there an easier way to do it? I've only got it about a 1/3 more of a turn and it will not budge anymore, either way. any suggestions?
7/17/2007 7:04:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Thinner crush washer?
7/17/2007 7:09:33 PM EDT
[#5]
First, you should have the barrel secured in a vice with non-marring blocks, NOT an upper action block.

You may need to extend the length of your wrench to get more torque on the muzzle brake to get it to go that last 1/3 turn.

Failing that, you could always go to plan B and use a peel washer instead.
7/18/2007 8:34:39 PM EDT
[#6]
I have been wondering what the difference between a crush and peel washer is.  Anyone care to chime in?  (Sorry for the hijack)
7/18/2007 8:54:54 PM EDT
[#7]
I quit using muzzle devices that require a washer, but I used to just kneel on the front sight base and crank the shit out of it until it lined up.  I have no place for a vice, so I improvised.  It may seem like you're killing the washer, but you're not.

LouisianaCarry, a crush washer gets "crushed" until the muzzle device is properly timed.  A peel washer is many thin layers that are "peeled" away until proper timing is achieved.  That's the short answer, maybe someone else can give you the long version.
7/18/2007 9:23:25 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
I quit using muzzle devices that require a washer, but I used to just kneel on the front sight base and crank the shit out of it until it lined up.  I have no place for a vice, so I improvised.  It may seem like you're killing the washer, but you're not.

LouisianaCarry, a crush washer gets "crushed" until the muzzle device is properly timed.  A peel washer is many thin layers that are "peeled" away until proper timing is achieved.  That's the short answer, maybe someone else can give you the long version.


Thanks, fishy!  Actually, I had more or less figured that from the names.  What I should have asked is "what is the benefit of one vs. the other."  Is there any?  
7/18/2007 9:28:55 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I quit using muzzle devices that require a washer, but I used to just kneel on the front sight base and crank the shit out of it until it lined up.  I have no place for a vice, so I improvised.  It may seem like you're killing the washer, but you're not.

LouisianaCarry, a crush washer gets "crushed" until the muzzle device is properly timed.  A peel washer is many thin layers that are "peeled" away until proper timing is achieved.  That's the short answer, maybe someone else can give you the long version.


Thanks, fishy!  Actually, I had more or less figured that from the names.  What I should have asked is "what is the benefit of one vs. the other."  Is there any?  

I don't think one is better than the other.  I put Vortex flash hiders on all my ARs, so I don't mess with washers any more.
7/18/2007 9:35:11 PM EDT
[#10]
As a matter of fact, I just ordered one of those from Ranier Arms an hour ago.  I have a couple of crush washers on order as well, mixed with some stuff coming from Stag (to throw in my parts box, since I do own a birdcage), so I was just wondering.

Thanks again!
7/18/2007 9:35:41 PM EDT
[#11]
Wooden barrel vise blocks work just fine. I use oak blocks which have a nice round shape dented into them. They don't slip.  It also helps if you grease the washer and flash hider while you're doing this. One poster wrote that he backs off the wrench a few turns, then advances the next 15 degrees, then backs off, then advances.
7/20/2007 6:39:29 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
I quit using muzzle devices that require a washer, but I used to just kneel on the front sight base and crank the shit out of it until it lined up.  I have no place for a vice, so I improvised.  It may seem like you're killing the washer, but you're not.

LouisianaCarry, a crush washer gets "crushed" until the muzzle device is properly timed.  A peel washer is many thin layers that are "peeled" away until proper timing is achieved.  That's the short answer, maybe someone else can give you the long version.


I'll give even a shorter answer. Throw the damn crusher washer away and get a peel washer Easier to use, and you don't need to crank the hell out of it  to get proper fit .

If you're bound and determined to use a crush washer, and initial stopping point is more than about a third of a turn from final position, take the thing out and file some of the material off the front. It's just a piece of soft aluminum and won't take much effort.
7/20/2007 6:53:01 AM EDT
[#13]
+1

Even with a vice, you have to really crank crush washers.
7/20/2007 7:32:39 AM EDT
[#14]
Never had to really crank on a crush washer to get it to align.

Then I use a Wrench not the multi tool and grease the threads.
7/20/2007 7:39:29 AM EDT
[#15]
+1

Even with a vice, you have to really crank crush washers.
7/20/2007 10:28:35 AM EDT
[#16]
If you have a vice, you could crush the crush washer slightly and check to see if you are closer to correct timing. Then you only have to go a short way to crank the rest .
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