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Posted: 3/1/2007 12:35:35 PM EDT
| You might be able to remove the A2 flash hider without using a vise at all. I can remove my flash hider by just tightly holding on the receiver and giving a good tug on the flash hider with a wrench and then unscrew it by hand. But i guess it depends how tight the flash hider is on it. It looks like you just use the shims to correctly time the flash hider. So just use the correct shim with the right thickness to line up the flash hider correctly when you tighten it down. |
I'm a cheap lazy bastard, destined to fuck up great things in my life. I lay my rifle on the carpet with a magazine in it and kinda put my knee on it while wrenching away with the multi-tool. So far I've replaced two different flash hiders that way.  Just remember to cover the flats of the actual flash hider with tape or something so you don't get ugly marks on them from the tool you're using.ETA: While we're talking about crush washers & flash hiders, does anyone know why you're supposed to replace them after using them once? That's what I'd heard but I can't imagine any problems from reusing them. |
Because once you crush them, they do not apply the same amount of force to hold the muzzle device in place when you re-install them. |
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Oops, wonder why they say that? And they come with instructions?? I've never seen instructions come with any flash hider... You're the expert, why do they advise 1) not to use the washer and 2) say no more than 10 lbs of torque? I figure it had flats, it's meant to be installed with a tool, aka, tightly. ETA: Having you as a member of this site rocks. I can't wait to sent you some barrels for shortening oneday. |
The whole Vortex design relies on proper sealing of the flash suppressor against the muzzle to eliminate any "eddy" as the gas leaves the muzzle. By adding a washer, you are creating a cavity where the gas swirls around, therefore reducing the pressure available at the beginning of the four slots. I don't know why they say to only torque to 10-ft-lbs, but it may have to do with accuracy. When you put too much torque on the muzzle device, you are stretching the barrel. Match rifle shooters install muzzle devices only hand-tight and use loctite on the threads to actually retain the muzzle devices. This ensures that there is no additional stress on the barrel at the muzzle. Vortexes are self-tightening because of the direction of the threads and the Vortex cuts. Therefore, there's no NEED for more torque, so why bother trying to stretch the barrel any more than you need to? |
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If you haven't been able too get it yet... i'll try too give a little help.... This might be a little ackward so try 2 bear w/ me...  I use the shims only(no crush) 1... You will want the Top(#3/middle) slit and the Cut out too be lined roughly straight up and down.... 2... The average area that you will want the Top slit and Cut out too be around are the 10-11 and 4-5 o'clock positions.... which will line the F/H straight up and down when torqued down... 3... 4 this, you will (might have too) need too spend some time taking the F/H on and off and testing all the shims, untill the you get the desired(o'clock) angle with hand tightening.... 4... When you have found the shims that you will be using... Put the Smallest shim on the barrel first and work your way up too the largest last.... 5... Put some Rocksett on both the threads on the barrel and F/H.... Amount is your choice... Make sure you wipe off the extra, because it does harden good on anything it touches.. 6... Put on and tighten down.. until the F/H is aligned up and down... Usually around 20lbs to 30lbs is were it hits when I put it at the 10.5 - 4.5 o'clock pos... 7... Let it dry for a day or two.... I usually let it go for 2-3 days.... 8... Enjoy........ Here's one way i guess.... It's worked for a few mounts and has held up constantly w/ and w/o a can.... never had too readjust or retighten, so i'm not complaining.... Hope this helps alittle.......  |
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