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Posted: 12/18/2006 2:56:48 PM EDT
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Is there any way to get my buttstock to fit more tightly against my reciever? If the tube spun in further It would fit tighter and fit in the case I want it to. Check out the pic and see if you have any ideas or do I just need a different buffer tube to make it fit better? I realize the recoil pad will gain me some room but I need additional room ontop of that. 
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You're outta luck dude. If you spin your tube on farther, it will not allow the buffer detent to operate properly. You might consider trading in your 6-position stock for a 4-position stock. The 4-position ones are shorter when collapsed. By my estimation, you'll gain about 1/2" |
SBR 
Ha Ha - look at the tie wraps holding on that butt pad! 
Stick a CAA buttstock saddle on it - that pad will never move again. That's what I did. No ties necessary, and you get a better cheek rest too. If you need it shorter, you're just going to have to go 2, 3, or 4-pos (old-school CAR) stock. I like them better anyway. Why they made the 6-pos "M4" stocks that long, I'll never know. I have long arms, and I never use anything past the 3rd or 4th hole back. Unless you just like having your nose rest on the extension half a foot behind the charging handle, the fully-open hole is way too long. |
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I would just get a new case for the back but its a atv cargo box that is pretty beefy and fits just right in the back of my suv allowing me to lock my ar up when its in my rig. That way I feel all safe and secure and dont feel that my ar will walk off easily(although I never leave it in there for long periods of time) That being said I know that my Mega lower combo from teknic fit just right with a 14.7" cmmg upper fit just right in the case. I know I can make it fit I just need to get the 1/2 inch or so that is being wasted between the stock and reciever. Does anybody have a few different 6 position stocks on their ars and can tell me if they fit any different on different recievers and stocks? |
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I got a Caa CBST6 stock and it fits almost perfectly only 2-3mm inbetween nut and stock when fully collapsed. Also it has its own attached pad, no extra pad needed. plus you get battery storage and a rail if you want. Just remembered I got a GG&G sling attachment as well dont know if its any thicker than the original plate. I guess you could always take several plates and stck them up to cover the threads and make your stock closer to your upper, or at least it will look that way. |
Thats what my dad recommended also. He said he does it with bolts and things were he screws the nut on where the cut will be made so the threads I want to get rid of will be exposed and then hacksaw them off and screw the nut back off to clean the threads out and it will work. But with that I would need to make sure that the amount I take off equals a full turn and works so that the stock lines up in the correct position while holding the pin down and being able to lock in when its fully collapsed. Anybody wanna post some pics of a 6 position fully collapsed so I can compare without searching through the picture threads on my parents slow ass internet? |
| If you remove the retainer pin and screw the extension in another turn, will the stock still close and will the upper clear the extension? If so you could just take a small round file and make a little notch for the retainer pin. The notch would need to be right at the bottom of course. Just go slow. There is a couple of centimeters of metal that could be removed before you even hit the threads. I would take some pics but I bet my slow ass internet is slower than yours! |
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