AR Sponsor
Posted: 8/3/2006 10:25:15 PM EDT
| How do you keep from buggering the pins when removing and then reinstalling? |
|
It's tough. Brownells (I think) sells a special punch, slight curved face so it matches the pins. Also, you have to drive the pins out in the proper direction, check the archives(I think out is right to left looking down on the rifle like you're shooting it). Finally, you need an extremely solid surface to support the FSB while you drive in/out the pins. I mean SOLID! We're talking concrete here, no pussy table. ANY flex and you can beat the pins till the cows come home and they won't budge! Once on a solid surface you'll be amazed at how easy the pins will drive out. You don't need a sledge hammer afterall. Just a good smack will get them moving. HTH o.r. |
|
that brownells punch is a starrett 3/32 square head nail starter. It's nicer than most nail starters because it's tough and isnt made from soft metal. The cupped end fits nicely over the rounded taper pin. you will need a good heavy hammer, like a 3lb sledge or so. Make sure you give it a couple good sharp pops and it'll break free farely easy. By the way OUT IS NOT RIGHT TO LEFT Look at the pins you can see one end is larger than the other. If you are look down the sights muzzle towards target..the pins will come out from left to right. |
ya you need to give them a couple sharp quick pops with a heavy sledge and they drop right out. |
|
i am just saying so i can repeat my self and to bump my post count i put a yhm ff tube on my ar, it has a bushy upper. i had the fsb on my vice anvil, and i hit it with a big hammer, the pins would not move. even after i dremeled the front sight base the pins where still stuck to the barrel, and i mean i had to use pliers to get them off the barrel. they had been driven in so hard the barrel was displaced in to the fsb. then i broke the teeth on the barrel nut trying to remove it, i had to use a 3 foot pipe wrench. damn bushmaster, good luck if yours is a bushy too |
I have had two like this now. One bushy. One Stag. Those Stag M4's are a BITCH. (yes, I know the pins are backwards on stags) |
I have seen them broke because someone gave the FSB a good whack and torqued them. The -10 says don't reuse. I have also broken two or three removing them. They are very brittle. They are also very cheap. |
|
Just remember this when trying to figure out which way pins go into and out of the AR15 rifle.... ** the FSB pins exit the rifle the same side that the cases eject when fired ** I would forget the left/right/top/bottom words when describing a rifle. Name the part as often as you can. |
That is not entirely correct. LMT and RRA have used straight pins (no taper) Stag Arms pins are *backwards* and the taper is opposite of the common direction. Dont assume the direction based on the ejection. Measure the diameter of the exposed pin heads - is the only way to know. |
Never seen one crack, bend or break and I have taken off a whole bunch of them over the years. Maybe it's your uber-tactical wood block breaking them?  I use the orange brownells block and a 1/4" punch with a well-worn cup in the end from all the pins I have knocked out. Then I follow that with a 3/32" drive-pin punch to knock them free of the FSB after the big punch breaks them loose. |
I used to use the wood blocks... now I also use the brownells block... and have never seen one break or crack. I use the exact procedure you do. |
Good points. I didnt realize that about Stag Arms. I always knew there was something goofy about them.  So in other words... with regards to my point: remove all FSB pins from the same side as case ejection (exception being Stag Arms) and all will be fine. When in doubt, just measure.
|
AR Sponsor