Hello All,

I was wondering what was better to use for barrel removal and installation, Barrel Vice Jaws or an Upper Receiver Action block. Any information you can provide on this issue is greatly appreciated. Also, are there any threads dedicated to barrel removal and installation that you can point me too.  

Thanks in advance.  

Veritas

upper receiver block used in conjuntion with a barrel wrench/ar combo tool thingie.  

An action block is the preferred method because it eliminates any possibility of the barrel spinning during installation or removal.

The following thread is great information for the do-it yourselfer

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

The best way is a DPMS upper receiver block, it's delrin plastic and doesn't clamp the receiver thus not making any flaws in the finish.  The upper receiver slides over it and is held in my two pins through the takedown and pivot pin holes of the upper receiver.

Brownells sells them for $49

Quoted: The best way is a DPMS upper receiver block, it's delrin plastic and doesn't clamp the receiver thus not making any flaws in the finish.  The upper receiver slides over it and is held in my two pins through the takedown and pivot pin holes of the upper receiver. Brownells sells them for $49 www.brownells.com/Images/Products/231000157.jpg

I disagree.  Those blocks put all the torque stress on the pivot pin lug and take-down lug.  That's some mighty small surface area.  The action block allows the entire upper to absorb the stress of the barrel nut torque.

As for finish flaws, you're talking plastic versus Mil-spec type III hardcoat finished aluminum.  No problem.

Quoted: Quoted: The best way is a DPMS upper receiver block, it's delrin plastic and doesn't clamp the receiver thus not making any flaws in the finish.  The upper receiver slides over it and is held in my two pins through the takedown and pivot pin holes of the upper receiver. Brownells sells them for $49 www.brownells.com/Images/Products/231000157.jpg I disagree.  Those blocks put all the torque stress on the pivot pin lug and take-down lug.  That's some mighty small surface area.  The action block allows the entire upper to absorb the stress of the barrel nut torque. As for finish flaws, you're talking plastic versus Mil-spec type III hardcoat finished aluminum.  No problem.

The clamp type leaves shiney spots in the finish where it touches the upper receiver.  The DPMS kind I posted the pic of has a part that goes up into the receiver.  It's held down by the pins so the torque is applied to the reciever evenly not just to the pins.  I've used this kind to install and remove about 50 barrels so far and have had no troubles.  The clamp type both made by Bushmaster and Brownells always leaves the shiney spots.  Next time you see a brand new Bushmaster look above the dust door and on the left side of the receiver below the rail near the cam pin area to the barrel nut, you'll see shiney spots.  The DPMS block will prevent these.

shiney spots



no shiney spots

Quoted: Quoted: The best way is a DPMS upper receiver block, it's delrin plastic and doesn't clamp the receiver thus not making any flaws in the finish.  The upper receiver slides over it and is held in my two pins through the takedown and pivot pin holes of the upper receiver. Brownells sells them for $49 www.brownells.com/Images/Products/231000157.jpg I disagree.  Those blocks put all the torque stress on the pivot pin lug and take-down lug.  That's some mighty small surface area.  The action block allows the entire upper to absorb the stress of the barrel nut torque. As for finish flaws, you're talking plastic versus Mil-spec type III hardcoat finished aluminum.  No problem.

I kinda agree with glock24. Guess I'd have to see the new DPMS block in action. Shiney spots don't bother me..........in ARFCOM fashion "they buff out"!

ETA: Guess the best test would be to install a receiver on the DPMS tool, but leave out the pins. Then with hand pressure try to push the receiver away from you, simulating the torque applied when installing a barrel. If the receiver want's to separate from the tool then stress is being transferred to the pivot and take down pins. And that is what I don't care for.

Never had any sort of mark on the upper receiver from using action blocks.

Quoted: Never had any sort of mark on the upper receiver from using action blocks.

Your logic-fu is weak.  It goes against the rules of logic to argue from the particular to the general.  
That would be like saying since your cat has stripes, then all cats must have stripes.