AR Sponsor
Posted: 2/22/2006 7:22:51 PM EDT
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Hello ARF. Ive been lurking for a month or so reading and Ive decided I WANT ONE! I think the pictures of all those ARs got me going. After looking at a few gun shops and gun shows, Ive decided I want to build my own. But Im kinda lost on a few definitions. What is the difference, if there is, between an AR15 and carbine? A mid AR15 and a regular AR15? Full float handgrip? Regular, 2stage, match/national match triggers? Does the lower make the caliber, or the upper? Do you buy barrel and chamber as a matched set? Im really liking the ARs with the triangle shaped butt stock, and the black/tan color combo. Im wanting to use it for punching paper. Not to much into using for home defense (.40 and Rem 870 for that) The gun that really caught my eye was MaroonFeathers. Black and tan with a silver barrel. Any help will be greatly appreciated. After reading these boards, Ive gotta say youve built one hell of a community here. Hope to fit right n. |
WELCOME to the site! i'll try to answer your questions as best as i can... --AR15: term refering to the AR (civilian M16 style) rifle, specifically the .223/5.56 civilian line carbine: general term for a shorter-than-stadard lenght rifle build for more compactness and manuverablity while sacrificing some aspects of the full size (for the AR: 16in bbl or less) --a midlength refers to the extended gas system over the standard carbine length, yet shorter than the rifle length system--it fits right in between the carbine and rifle length systems its all the same system/mechanics; the middy, while maintaing the same bbl lenth as the carbine (usually 16in) supposidly makes the cycling smoother and therefore less punishing on the AR's parts--i also think that it looks better --FF Handguard (right?): well it attaches the HG to only 1 point on the AR upper--where the bbl connects to the upper, so the front portion is "free floating" this ensures that the as little stress (sling mounting, hand, etc) is placed on the bbl points and not vibrate it FF is recommended if you want max accuracy; there are some drawbacks, but it all goes to use --triggers: the stock trigger is basic; the 2 stage i believe has a 'preset' stage (where you feel the trigger about to go) and the final stage that discharges the firearm (at least i am sure thats how it works); match: i think that its another name for the 2 stage, but i am not sure--if its maybe its adjustable too...(sorry i am not that much of a trigger guy--i like the stock ones as is) --no, the lower does not make the caliber (unless you get a bigger caliber AR, like the AR10 which uses another size reciever, but in general for the smaller caliber ARs, no it does not) the lower is simply there as the Firearm part (must transfer through FFL or according to state laws) and as the "skeleton" to hold the parts to make the AR work the lower can be marked any caliber, but those markings dont affect function --i will say 'No'--the bbl/chamber/bore are integrated--one solid piece the bbl is inserted into the upper reciever and locked on by a bbl nut h/w, the chamber is headspaced and made for certain diamerter bullets w/in pressure limits the standard A2/A1 buttstocks are fine-- some (like mine) have a little, just a little play, but very stable for target/bench shooting does marronfeathers have a web site....? |
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Wow, thanks for the info. Its getting a little clearer now. Ive always been a handgun fan. Simple to break down and put back together. I figured the rifle would be too. Guess not, but Im up for a challenge. Im thinking I want to go with a midlength. Oh , yes I meant FF handguard. Brain was going faster than fingers. SO the standard AR15 round is the .223/5.56? So the A1/A2 stcok are good for my needs? Good. MaroonFeathers is a user here. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=230097 His pic is half way down the page. Brown and black AR. Thanks again for the much needed info! |
| Welcome to the BRD once you have built or bought your first you will want more. I started out with a Bushmaster Vmatch 24" barrel. I had that a month and I built my second Lower receiver it was easy and I saved a little over buying a complete lower. I bought a complete Del-ton A2 Upper with a 20" heavy barrel it is very accurate and fun to shoot. My next rifle will be a 16" Carbine. I will build the upper and lower for the carbine. |
the most common configuration is the 5.56/.223 AR (the 5.56 has higher pressures, is mil issue)--i guess you could call it the "standard" round.... A1/A2 may fit your needs--depends on how they feel to you; personally, i like the magpul stocks--they lock up SOLID www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=230097 |
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Sorry about the delayed IM M4. Still getting used to the layout. Yes Im in Lake County. Another question. WHats the normal transfer fee? I wnt to Blythes gun shop in Griffith today. He told me its $50 to do the transfer. This seems awful high to hand me a peice of paper, check to see if I filled it all out, make a phone call, and tell me yes or no. |
around here (and for most of the ARF.com's members i have heard) its $25 for a FFL transfer but it can vary...from $15 to 10% of the value of the firearm; $50 is kinda steep |
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Well, Im in! Went and bought an Eagle Arms lower. I went to the Valpo Blythes and they had 1 lower in stock. Paid $125 for it. Funny thing is the Griffith store wanted almost $100 more for the same thing. Picked up a kit for the lower too. My fingers are killing me! That hammer/spring is a pain! The bolt catch roll pin was worse. Too many moving parts I guess. The write up on here worked great. A few confusing moments, but all is good. Now Im off to buy more parts!!  |
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Ok another one of those questions. A lot has been spent, and Im getting near the end of buying parts to make my first AR. SO far I have: Armalite lower RRA upper (waiting to ship) RRA SS wilson barrel 16" CAR (waiting to ship) 4 rail lite weight FF handguard CAR (waiting to ship) 6 pos buttstock Ergo grip 4 30 round mags Now my question is this. I want a chromed bolt carrier assembly. Is this all the parts I need as far as the bolt carrier assembly? http://www.dpmsinc.com/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=BCBA-C1AS I have a charging handle coming with my upper and its an assembled upper. Or do I need to order more stuff to make this bolt carrier work? Ive got 2 schematics in front of me showing an exploded view of the assembly, but Im still not sure. |
If I were you, I would never set foot inside that store again. I bought my RRA complete with 6 position stock for that price at the local gun shop. +1 on the $25 transfer fee. Both of the gun shops I use charge this amount. $50 is outrageous. One more reason never to set foot inside that place again. |
| Yea this store is getting worse. I went there to see if some parts were cheaper if they ordered them or if I went straight to the company. A RRA wilson barrel, in the 2006 catalog is $230. They told me their price was $270 + ship. Asked why its higher. Said cause thats RRA cost to make the barrel. Funny, RRA charged me $230. |
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Is anyone familiar with this bolt carrier assembly? Is this all the parts needed for the upper to be complete? www.dpmsinc.com/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=BCBA-C1AS |
i have not seen a production made 18-20in carbine length bbl....its either a midlength or a rifle length for that length bbl |
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