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Posted: 12/7/2005 8:06:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 5:50:59 PM EDT by powers]
I am looking to add a railed forearm to my 16' midlength and have looked at Larue, DD, and MI. I understand that you get what you pay for but I could put the extra $$ into a nice trigger, mags, or other accessories.

No Flames please.

This is primarily a coyote rifle the I will have a light, 3 pt sling, and forward grip on. I am not LE or Mil, If my life depended on my equipment daily then price would not be a priority.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:08:57 AM EDT
I have a rifle length YHM FF tube on my CR6724 long range AR15, not a dang thing wrong with it.

Mike
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:11:57 AM EDT
Any pictures? I know it looks just like most of the others, but I am interested in your long range gun.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:14:09 AM EDT
I had the ff and it was really, really nice. I sold it because I don't like little carbines, I just have 20"ers but if I did they would be on it, I also use their f/h's c52 for the ar and 33 for the fal
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:15:50 AM EDT
Here's my understanding of the "problems". It does not attach in a very strong manner. Basically to attach the quad rail you screw down the special barrel nut and then the lock ring and then screw on the handguard and back off on the lock ring to cinch it up tight. Some people report the rails unscrewing especially if they bump the foregrip. I personally haven't had any problems with mine, I don't run a VFG though. Also, it's been reported that some of the early YHM rails were out of spec. MJD
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:22:41 AM EDT
There is nothing wrong with YHM for typical civilian use.

Here are the negatives:

1. The design uses a locking ring on a spinning tube... which at a most inopportune time could allow the tube to spin... especially when using a forward grip. Even if it did spin... it would not disable the weapon... you would just have a loose VFG at that point... and anything mounted to the rail would be out of proper indexing.

2. They are "fat" After you install rail panels... they are large in diameter. This is not only seen on the YHM, however. The Larue tubes have a smaller diameter and a more comfortable grip, IMHO. If using a VFG, this is not a concern.

3. They use an aluminum barrel nut. It has a higher probability of welding itself to the upper receiver, and breakage upon removal after many years of service. If you follow the guides, and use the proper moly grease, it should not be an issue.


For the money, they are great. If you arent building a sub-MOA rifle... then you might consider the two-piece handguard replacement designs that dont FF the barrel. For a coyote rifle I cannot see FF as a requirements... unless you plan on mounting optics to the rail.... in which case I would recommend other tubes that lock with the receiver rail.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:26:23 AM EDT
I also do a little target shooting and I like for all of my guns to be as accurate as possible.\

FF not necessary but it is my personal preference.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:32:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By highwayman:
Here's my understanding of the "problems". It does not attach in a very strong manner. Basically to attach the quad rail you screw down the special barrel nut and then the lock ring and then screw on the handguard and back off on the lock ring to cinch it up tight. Some people report the rails unscrewing especially if they bump the foregrip. I personally haven't had any problems with mine, I don't run a VFG though. Also, it's been reported that some of the early YHM rails were out of spec. MJD




Thats my understanding of the "problem" too. And I have run into it myself but it's not that much of an issue I just was sure to use some loctite on it when I tightened everything back up and I have not had issues with it again. For what I use my guns for YHM fits my needs.

Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:34:02 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FALARAK:
There is nothing wrong with YHM for typical civilian use.

Here are the negatives:
...

2. They are "fat" After you install rail panels... they are large in diameter. This is not only seen on the YHM, however. The Larue tubes have a smaller diameter and a more comfortable grip, IMHO. If using a VFG, this is not a concern.

...



Have you tried Magpul ladder rails? These make the profile much easier to handle in my opinion. Overheating does not seem to be a problem either. MJD
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:36:30 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FALARAK:


3. They use an aluminum barrel nut. It has a higher probability of welding itself to the upper receiver, and breakage upon removal after many years of service. If you follow the guides, and use the proper moly grease, it should not be an issue.



I just did that a couple weeks ago, fucked up the barrel nut, not on removal but putting it on another upper. Just ordered a new one today.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:42:00 AM EDT

Originally Posted By photoman:

Originally Posted By FALARAK:


3. They use an aluminum barrel nut. It has a higher probability of welding itself to the upper receiver, and breakage upon removal after many years of service. If you follow the guides, and use the proper moly grease, it should not be an issue.



I just did that a couple weeks ago, fucked up the barrel nut, not on removal but putting it on another upper. Just ordered a new one today.



I highly recommend buying the YHM barrel nut tool. It is a more precision tool than a typical armorers wrench... has three pegs to engage the nut, and much less likely for this sort of thing to occur.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:44:22 AM EDT

Originally Posted By highwayman:
Have you tried Magpul ladder rails? These make the profile much easier to handle in my opinion. Overheating does not seem to be a problem either. MJD



Yes... I have. I run ladder rails on the tops of my tubes... but not where my hands go. I get my weapons HOT... and ladder rails will let your skin touch the tube.



Link Posted: 12/7/2005 8:45:05 AM EDT
I put the carbine length on mine. I "use" my carbine. I am not afraid to scratch or bang it up. The only real regret I have is not spending the little extra to get the light weight model. The setup I have has kept my light and my eothingy firmly in place. I also have a 3 point sling mounted on the front part. It is a great product for the price. If you put it on correctly you should have no problems.
It just happend to make my "lightweight" rifle heavy, which doesnt affect me, as it is hanging on a sling anyways.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 3:34:47 PM EDT
I have a YHM lightweight forend on my 6X45 build. It's used at the range and for hunting. I don't use a vertical grip, and have never had any issues with mine coming loose. IMO, it's a great item for the price. I wouldn't hesitate to use YHM on my next build.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 3:39:24 PM EDT
I've considered drilling through the handguard into the barrel nut and threading the hole. If you insert a set screw and loctite it the problem should be completely eliminated. Any thoughts on that??
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 3:42:09 PM EDT
YHM makes good stuff and I would recommend their ff tubes. When YHM installs a ff tube for a customer they use a loctite like substance. It did not look like blue loctite dried up to me when I removed one of the tubes, but mine never came loose. Blue loctite helps any type of tube that does not lock somehow. I have a generic ff tube on one of my uppers that I drilled and tapped to put set scews in to hold it in place. It works like a charm. It's not sexy but it works very well.
Link Posted: 12/7/2005 4:59:28 PM EDT
Ya know whats funny.... I havent looked at my YHM tube much since I put it on my M4.

I got it out tonight... and very surprisingly.... it has rotated. Weird. I spent a lot of time lining it up perfect.... and used blue loctite on it. I used to have a VFG on the tube, with a flashlight.... took it off and have just been shooting it with nothing on it for some time. (it was heavy)

Anyway... I just took a good look at it, and it HAS MOVED. It is still locked down tight... I cannot rotate the tube with my hands... so I can only assume it moved when it was hot from shooting one time. But sure enough, the top rail on the tube is off around 1/8".... which is quite a lot. They dont even come close to lining up anymore.

Not a huge deal.... just firms up whate others have stated... and why high quality brands of tubes (LaRue) put anti-rotation devices on theirs.
Link Posted: 12/8/2005 2:40:17 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Mr45auto:
I've considered drilling through the handguard into the barrel nut and threading the hole. If you insert a set screw and loctite it the problem should be completely eliminated. Any thoughts on that??



If for some unforseen reason I could only have a YHM FF, I would do exactly that. That would likely make that setup unique to that receiver, though, for those that like to change things up frequently.

My two beefs were the locking assembly and the weight.......................even the "lightweight" model is a relative term.
Link Posted: 12/8/2005 2:44:29 AM EDT
Can someone summarize which manufactures use a locking mechanism and which don't?
Link Posted: 12/8/2005 4:10:48 AM EDT

Originally Posted By NevadaARshooter:
Can someone summarize which manufactures use a locking mechanism and which don't?




pretty much all freefloat rails use some sort of locking setup, there is also a tacked thread here with 8pgs worth of rail discussion

i have used the yhm rail and feel that its good for the money.


Link Posted: 12/8/2005 9:49:31 AM EDT
FWIW, on my lite-weight YHM FF tube I have the Mamba 25 MOA built in scope mount setting forward enough on the flatop that it creates a quite solid lock-up w/ the top rails of the FF tube, with no possibility of the shifting mentioned by FALARAK in the post above.

Even if the locking ring should become loose the FF tube cannot move or shift at all, with the solid onepiece scope mount holding it, (sort of like insurance IMO).

I like it set-up this way and the Mamba mount has the built in minutes necessary to give that old Leupold VX-III scope the elevation to reach out to the 1000 yard line.

Mike

Link Posted: 12/8/2005 5:58:53 PM EDT


Link Posted: 12/8/2005 6:41:05 PM EDT
rice rig.


Does anyone by chance have a birds-eye shot of a YHM tube?
That would give me a better idea of how wide it actually is.

Also, is the FIRSH known for rotating?
'cause I have an idea using leftover cut-carry-handle parts or a KAC side sling mount...
Link Posted: 12/8/2005 6:46:10 PM EDT
Nothing much. The LaRue, DD, etc.. have some nice features, but the YHM gets it done



Link Posted: 12/18/2005 2:06:55 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Mr45auto:
I've considered drilling through the handguard into the barrel nut and threading the hole. If you insert a set screw and loctite it the problem should be completely eliminated. Any thoughts on that??



I do this exact thing on simple DPMS freefloat handguard tubes that get a sling stud installed for use with a bipod.
There's nothing more annoying than the handguard tube with bipod breaking loose in the middle of a 3 gun match.
It happened to me once.
Now I make sure it will never happen to one of my customers.
The same thing would surely work great on a YHM qual rail setup.
I tap and install a 6-32 x 1/4" long setscrew at 6:00 on the handguard.
It threads through the handguard, through the nut and bottoms out in an un-used hole.
Blue loctite keeps the setscrew in place, but it's removable should you need to tear down the upper.

Randall Rausch
www.ar15barrels.com
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 6:17:54 AM EDT

Originally Posted By powers:
I am looking to add a railed forearm to my 16' midlength and have looked at Larue, DD, and MI. I understand that you get what you pay for but I could put the extra $$ into a nice trigger, mags, or other accessories.

No Flames please.

This is a night time coyote rifle the I will have a light, 3 pt sling, and forward grip on. I am not LE or Mil, If my life depended on my equipment daily then price would not be a priority.



When I clicked on your post, i thought that you had a specific "problem" with YHM FF tubes. Apparently, you are merely asking for opinions about the product.

If you have not tried it out, then why ask "what's wrong" with it?
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 8:51:23 AM EDT
fight,
is that a YHM rifle FF? i'm looking at getting one for my 14.5+comp after trimming the current gas block down. do you think that is too front heavy? nice rig, got any more pics? thanks, miko
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 9:39:11 PM EDT

Originally Posted By eye_spy:

Originally Posted By powers:
I am looking to add a railed forearm to my 16' midlength and have looked at Larue, DD, and MI. I understand that you get what you pay for but I could put the extra $$ into a nice trigger, mags, or other accessories.

No Flames please.

This is a night time coyote rifle the I will have a light, 3 pt sling, and forward grip on. I am not LE or Mil, If my life depended on my equipment daily then price would not be a priority.



When I clicked on your post, i thought that you had a specific "problem" with YHM FF tubes. Apparently, you are merely asking for opinions about the product.

If you have not tried it out, then why ask "what's wrong" with it?



The reason that I asked what is wrong with them is that there is very little said about them and some guys on the forum seem to have the opinion that if you did not spend $300 plus on a forearm, it is a waste of money.

I was just going on the impression that I got from reviews of other tubes. Don't get me wrong, if my life is riding on my equipment on a daily basis, I will have the best that my money can buy.
Link Posted: 12/27/2005 3:19:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/27/2005 3:21:27 AM EDT by demusn1979]

Originally Posted By eye_spy:

Originally Posted By powers:
I am looking to add a railed forearm to my 16' midlength and have looked at Larue, DD, and MI. I understand that you get what you pay for but I could put the extra $$ into a nice trigger, mags, or other accessories.

No Flames please.

This is a night time coyote rifle the I will have a light, 3 pt sling, and forward grip on. I am not LE or Mil, If my life depended on my equipment daily then price would not be a priority.



When I clicked on your post, i thought that you had a specific "problem" with YHM FF tubes. Apparently, you are merely asking for opinions about the product.

If you have not tried it out, then why ask "what's wrong" with it?





I have a YHM LW Carbine FF orderd yesterday from Bravo Co. i would like to hear all the feedback i can.
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 2:20:26 PM EDT

Originally Posted By demusn1979:



I have a YHM LW Carbine FF orderd yesterday from Bravo Co. i would like to hear all the feedback i can.





I love my YHM LW FF tube. No problems at all.
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 3:39:00 PM EDT
Why should you have to learn the hard way? Better to ask questions first and only buy once isnt it?

Link Posted: 12/28/2005 3:49:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MTNmyMag:
Why should you have to learn the hard way? Better to ask questions first and only buy once isnt it?




Exactamundo.
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 8:54:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By highwayman:
Here's my understanding of the "problems". It does not attach in a very strong manner. Basically to attach the quad rail you screw down the special barrel nut and then the lock ring and then screw on the handguard and back off on the lock ring to cinch it up tight. Some people report the rails unscrewing especially if they bump the foregrip. I personally haven't had any problems with mine, I don't run a VFG though. Also, it's been reported that some of the early YHM rails were out of spec. MJD



I have a good solution for this problem. Use a scout rail or swan sleeve for an ar-10, or like my current set up, mount the scope mount or riser forward far enough that it engages the top rail on the forend. (I'll try to post pics later) This secures the forend better than any thing I've seen. Most locking systems secure the forend to the barrel nut, but you still run a risk of twisting the barrel nut (especially if you use a VFG or bipod)which will cause malfunctions and decreased accuracy. Barrel nuts are only torqued to about 30ft lbs which can be easily unscrewed with a little effort on a VFG.
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 9:36:17 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 9:50:01 PM EDT
They are heavy and they don't lock down well.
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 10:20:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/28/2005 10:21:19 PM EDT by TaylorWSO]

Originally Posted By Wirebrush:

Originally Posted By highwayman:
Here's my understanding of the "problems". It does not attach in a very strong manner. Basically to attach the quad rail you screw down the special barrel nut and then the lock ring and then screw on the handguard and back off on the lock ring to cinch it up tight. Some people report the rails unscrewing especially if they bump the foregrip. I personally haven't had any problems with mine, I don't run a VFG though. Also, it's been reported that some of the early YHM rails were out of spec. MJD



I have a good solution for this problem. Use a scout rail or swan sleeve for an ar-10, or like my current set up, mount the scope mount or riser forward far enough that it engages the top rail on the forend. (I'll try to post pics later) This secures the forend better than any thing I've seen. Most locking systems secure the forend to the barrel nut, but you still run a risk of twisting the barrel nut (especially if you use a VFG or bipod)which will cause malfunctions and decreased accuracy. Barrel nuts are only torqued to about 30ft lbs which can be easily unscrewed with a little effort on a VFG.




How do you get a barrel nut unscrewed with a gas tube running through it?
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 10:30:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/28/2005 10:33:27 PM EDT by Randall_Rausch]
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 10:42:07 PM EDT
I have the YHM Spectre FF HGs.
Haven't had any problems w/ rotation.
I definitley recommend getting the locking ring spanner wrench for it.
When I installed mine I kinda dry fitted everything together to
get it close then actually held the locking ring in place w/ the wrench
while torqing the HG w/ a strap wrench for the final 1 or 2 degrees.

The quick fix I came up with in case of rotation is by means of a clamp
that aligns it w/ the reciever rail.
It works pretty much like using a SWAN Sleeve or any other accessory mount to
lock the two together.
I just took the clamping pads off of a couple of spare cheap weaver rings and
one of their bolts.
By drilling the threads out of one and leaving them in the other I can insert the bolt
and use them to clamp the pads together. The bolt fits in the gap between the
reciever rail and the HG and the pads clamp against the recessed base of the rail.


Link Posted: 12/28/2005 11:26:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/28/2005 11:27:23 PM EDT by CAAAwarfighter]
Seen references of contractors in Iraq using YHM FF rail systems. You will be fine for coyotes.
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 7:06:58 PM EDT
While we are on the topic of how well hanguards are made or hold onto the rifle;

I've got my eyes on the Larue 13.2" FF handguard. Tell me that for more then twice the price of a YHM hanguard, this $330 Larue handguard is worth it. I want as solid a rig as I can get for sub MOA accuracy.
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 7:32:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By VaniB:
While we are on the topic of how well hanguards are made or hold onto the rifle;

I've got my eyes on the Larue 13.2" FF handguard. Tell me that for more then twice the price of a YHM hanguard, this $330 Larue handguard is worth it. I want as solid a rig as I can get for sub MOA accuracy.



Every mutha scratchin penny, IMHO.

Accuracy wise - you wont see a difference. LaRue is a *high* quality product and YHM is a budget product. Both have their place.... but both "float" the barrel equally as well. It is, after all, just a barrel nut.

But the LaRue is a thing of beauty for a fine weapon. You will spend WAY more in ammo, in no time, than the difference between the two. I no longer skimp on my weapons..... and I am a cheap-ass.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 1:29:58 AM EDT
I just put mine on my Midlength build





I'd like to know why everyone calls the lightweight FF heavy??

If you look at FAQ: The Big Thread On FF & Railed Forends You'll find it's right in the running (at least for the midlength like I have)

I like mine, and especially liked it being MUCH cheaper than the others. I will say, yes, the grip is a little fat. And yes, I DID have it come loose on me.. only to find I didn't have it that tight to begin with. But as soon as the barrel got warm, it loosened up the blue loctite. However, I thightened it down with a strap wrench and another set of hands to twist. I think it will do the trick.

Gundraw
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 4:12:15 AM EDT
I'm more concerned with rotating the barrel nut, which could cause a malfunction, then the free float rail. Either way, my eotech riser mounts across the 2 rails for added security
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 6:56:31 AM EDT
If YHM would make the locking collar thicker with deeper spanner notches their system would be very nice indeed. The last one I had, went together great and I didn't have any problem with it rotating but, I did mark up the collar making sure it was TIGHT.

junk
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 7:17:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 7:19:10 AM EDT by Punani]

Originally Posted By markmcjunkins:
If YHM would make the locking collar thicker with deeper spanner notches their system would be very nice indeed. The last one I had, went together great and I didn't have any problem with it rotating but, I did mark up the collar making sure it was TIGHT.

junk



I agree, it's easy to mar the ring with the spanner.
Other than that, it's a great setup!



This is before I put the Mapul covers on there
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 8:26:22 AM EDT
Installed YHM Spector length on this build. Soild, no issues.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 8:30:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 8:31:32 AM EDT by FALARAK]
You guys thingk it is easy to mar up the YHM's while installing them?

Try REMOVING one, once it has had a bit of loctite installed. I thought I was going to have to dremel it off.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 4:26:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 4:33:50 PM EDT by markmcjunkins]

Originally Posted By FALARAK:
You guys thingk it is easy to mar up the YHM's while installing them?

Try REMOVING one, once it has had a bit of loctite installed. I thought I was going to have to dremel it off.



That sounds like a good loctite job....someone took the time to clean the lube off the threads.



junk
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 4:47:47 PM EDT

Originally Posted By CAAAwarfighter:
Seen references of contractors in Iraq using YHM FF rail systems. You will be fine for coyotes.



A member here, who happens to be an armorer for the AMU, used one on an M4 in Iraq. He recommended Loctite. I'd not use one in the first place, but cornered with one, I'd not go without Loctite. Use it with a FVG in adrenaline filled situations, and you'll twist the rail system. Use it on a bench with padded transport from the safe to the bench and vice versa, and you'll likely never see an issue anyway.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:16:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By mongo001:

Originally Posted By CAAAwarfighter:
Seen references of contractors in Iraq using YHM FF rail systems. You will be fine for coyotes.



A member here, who happens to be an armorer for the AMU, used one on an M4 in Iraq. He recommended Loctite. I'd not use one in the first place, but cornered with one, I'd not go without Loctite. Use it with a FVG in adrenaline filled situations, and you'll twist the rail system. Use it on a bench with padded transport from the safe to the bench and vice versa, and you'll likely never see an issue anyway.




I really don't want to rehash the entire ff tube war, but any of the ff systems out there could get "some " twist [ except for the ARMS series] with improper assembly. YMMV


junk
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 5:18:24 PM EDT

Originally Posted By markmcjunkins:

Originally Posted By mongo001:

Originally Posted By CAAAwarfighter:
Seen references of contractors in Iraq using YHM FF rail systems. You will be fine for coyotes.



A member here, who happens to be an armorer for the AMU, used one on an M4 in Iraq. He recommended Loctite. I'd not use one in the first place, but cornered with one, I'd not go without Loctite. Use it with a FVG in adrenaline filled situations, and you'll twist the rail system. Use it on a bench with padded transport from the safe to the bench and vice versa, and you'll likely never see an issue anyway.




I really don't want to rehash the entire ff tube war, but any of the ff systems out there could get "some " twist [ except for the ARMS series] with improper assembly. YMMV


junk



Twist........................yes. 90+ degree free rotation, I think not.
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