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Posted: 11/15/2005 9:49:25 PM EDT
Stickman, this thread's for you. I owe you a beer man.
Here's the first of my foray into refinishing with Norrell's Moly Resin. I am most pleased with the results, which would not be possible without the help of Stickman, his patience for my dumb questions, and his most impressive refinishing guide. My DPMS lower group, which began life as a blank lower, accompanied by my trusty M7 bayonet. The colors are OD Green and Desert Tan.  And another work-in-progress, my Hk P2000SK. Going to hit it one more time with the Tan, and then I'm going to do a little snakeskin magic on it. More to follow on this one.  Stickman's guide can be found HERE. Once project Hk is finished, on to my M1A, with the bottle of SOCOM black I bought just for her. |
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Posted: 11/15/2005 10:26:48 PM EDT
[#1]
very nice.
I am going to do a few things this winter. Bought everything i need including a a nifty airbrush. I really hope it turns out as good as stick's |
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Posted: 11/15/2005 10:39:54 PM EDT
[#2]
Looks good
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Posted: 11/16/2005 3:56:30 AM EDT
[#3]
i have all the gear set up to spray norrell's as well for my xm build and stickman was the one who pushed me towards moly-resin as well.
did you take everything apart before spraying or did you just spray it like it was? |
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Posted: 11/16/2005 4:10:19 AM EDT
[#4]
Hella nice job on the lower, wish I could do it, i'm scared I might mess it up.
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Posted: 11/16/2005 8:28:34 AM EDT
[#5]
Don't thank me, you are the one who did all the work, and it turned out fantastic! Nice job, and I hope other people get some ideas from seeing your work.
Check your IM for more info. |
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Posted: 11/16/2005 10:54:56 AM EDT
[#6]
The lower was partially disassembled....I took the stock (not the tube) and pistol grip off, which meant the safety also came out as well. Remember to retain the spring and detent! I sprayed the lower with the push-pins out (extended), but left it as-is. The bayonet was disassembled (2 screws) and sprayed seperately, and the pistol was completely disassembled. Lower was cured at 250 degrees for 90 minutes along with pistol grip and stock plus bayonet handle. Hk pistol metal parts cured at 300 for 60 minutes, plastic parts were at 200 for 120 minutes. |
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Posted: 11/16/2005 7:24:28 PM EDT
[#7]
9mm Rifle is complete. Here's the aftermath:
 As well as the Hk P2000SK. Note the faint hint of OD green towards the front, I like how it turned out. 
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Posted: 11/16/2005 7:33:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Very nice, make sure you show the HK pics over on the HK websites!
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Posted: 11/16/2005 8:44:33 PM EDT
[#9]
You did a really nice job and it looks great.
personally, I really like the accent of 2 colors. These are crappy pictures that don't do this scheme justice but here it is. Something like   Guess who did the refinish work on this one??  |
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Posted: 11/16/2005 8:48:37 PM EDT
[#10]
pretty sweet set-up Teknic!
I gotta offload some of my current EE for sale items, and I'll be working on some new gear! |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 9:33:23 AM EDT
[#11]
That rife is just plain sexy!! Which reminds me that I need to get ahold of you later with some questions.... |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 11:20:32 AM EDT
[#12]
Great work, guys, I've been tempted, but haven't taken the plunge yet.
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Posted: 11/17/2005 12:14:28 PM EDT
[#13]
Peer pressure, all the cool kids are using Norrells...... |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 3:18:48 PM EDT
[#14]
 I'll read your guide and get back to you, I've been considering it, and pricing stuff.
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Posted: 11/17/2005 3:23:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Both those ARs look good to me . Now if Teknic would be so kind as to tell me where he got that lazer at??
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Posted: 11/17/2005 3:51:27 PM EDT
[#16]
I'm pretty sure he stocks them... www.rainierarms.com Teknic is a solid guy, great to talk to, and treats people right. I consider his low prices an after thought as he is one of the only people I will recommend friends, fellow officers, and military troops to. I know that if people go to him, they will be taken care of, both with great prices and great service. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 4:04:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Thank you Sir for the Info!
ETA I'l give them a call in the AM. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 4:21:18 PM EDT
[#18]
He is in WA, so its still early for those of us out here..... 
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Posted: 11/17/2005 4:46:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Ok I called but his office is closed , I would rather not call his cell#. Maybe he'll key in here soon.
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Posted: 11/17/2005 4:53:52 PM EDT
[#20]
I think if we keep bringing this backto the top we can shame him into it....
You can always shoot him an email, and you would probably get an answer back tonight. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 5:03:20 PM EDT
[#21]
yeah, I tried that whole "shame him into it" thing, but I still can't gt anyone to bite on the body armor I'm selling. all I want is a 14.5" M4 upper, and no one out there wants what I've got. maybe I ought to order more Moly Resin, and charge a few people for redoing their guns. anyways, I've bought from Teknic before, and he is good people as Stickman states. I'd do business again if I had the cash. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 6:00:34 PM EDT
[#22]
Thanks for the pics. I always enjoy Moly-Resin threads! I'm curious... at what temperature and for how long did you bake that HK frame? Have you done any tests to verify the moly-resin has properly cured on it? I ask because I was thinking about doing that to a Glock frame and I contacted John Norrell about it. He stated that Moly Resin needs to be cured at a minimum of 275 deg.. He also stated that while he's never tried a Glock frame, he has tried HK frames and in his experience, they could not handle the heat. I "talked" to Stickman about his opinion\experience on this but I would like to read any details you can provide? Thanks |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 6:09:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Lapp, how did you prep the DPMS lower? They have a teflon coating.
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Posted: 11/17/2005 6:25:41 PM EDT
[#24]
Stickman's guide tells us that the curing temp can be changed in accordance with the curing time. Hk frame went into the oven at 200 degrees for 120minutes the first time. After the OD treatment, it went in again at 200 degrees for another 120 minutes. I have using y wife's acetone fingernail polish remover to clean up my airbrush stuff (since the Moly Resin was not yet cured) and it wiped clean. I tried an inconspicuous area of the Hk frame with the same acetone, and nothing wiped off. Good enough for me. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 6:27:11 PM EDT
[#25]
Not sure about a teflon coating, but I simply sprayed, quite a lot, of carbureator cleaner all over the lower. Made sure to wear gloves to prevent fingerprints, and sprayed then baked. Not too hard, and well worth it to me. |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 6:54:33 PM EDT
[#26]
Thanks |
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Posted: 11/17/2005 9:58:30 PM EDT
[#27]
+1 o nthe laser |
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Posted: 11/18/2005 2:49:12 AM EDT
[#28]
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Posted: 11/18/2005 5:08:01 PM EDT
[#29]
I have using y wife's acetone fingernail polish remover to clean up my airbrush stuff (since the Moly Resin was not yet cured) and it wiped clean. I tried an inconspicuous area of the Hk frame with the same acetone, and nothing wiped off. Good enough for me.
Just use some cheap lacquer thinner for both degreasing the parts to be sprayed, and cleaning the airbrush. Some Fingernail Polish Removers contain oils to counteract the skin drying effect of the acetone. |
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Posted: 11/18/2005 7:06:39 PM EDT
[#30]
use MEK you can get it at home depot that is the base for molly resin paint and is a good degreaser and air brush cleaner
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Posted: 11/18/2005 7:36:52 PM EDT
[#31]
The acetone worked just fine. That part of my original post was to demonstrate how the cured Moly Resin would not wipe off of the Hk frame, as opposed to the uncured Moly Resin, which was easily cleaned from the airbrush equipment. I wasn't trying to find a thinner/remover.
I want to add, that the airbrush equipment was dry whn it was cleaned, so this further demostrates cured versus uncured Moly Resin. |
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Posted: 11/18/2005 8:33:15 PM EDT
[#32]
The difference is quite evident, getting the cured product off is much more work.
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Posted: 11/18/2005 8:36:14 PM EDT
[#33]
how much of the moly resin does it take to coat an AR?
Trying to figure out how much I should order and what colors. Too many decisions. |
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Posted: 11/19/2005 10:03:11 AM EDT
[#34]
for mine, I used probably close to 6 ounces, or almost an entire bottle in the smallest size they offer. if you're doing multiple weapons in the same color, you'll need as least the quart size. |
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Posted: 12/12/2005 9:22:08 PM EDT
[#35]
how much did you pay for your airbrush and which do you recommend?
Edwin |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 7:48:26 AM EDT
[#36]
I hear you an use the cheap Testors model airbrush and the canned air you find at Wal Mart. They say it works well and you can't beat the price.
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Posted: 12/13/2005 9:39:12 AM EDT
[#37]
Yes, the testors airbrush works fine, but the canned air is $9.00 a can, so if you plan on doing allot of stuff ( and you will ) look at a small compresser, the one I have was only $35.00 at Harbor Freght, and it works great. |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 10:27:24 AM EDT
[#38]
You should be able to buy all products needed for $50-60, including the airbrush, Norrells, gloves, etc.. That will give you enough to coat 2 AR15s unless your airbrush setting are messed up. |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 2:28:26 PM EDT
[#39]
Not sure I have the guts to try this guys but all your efforts look OutStanding. My question is how does it look/hold up to decent range/competitive use . I am just a shooter (no "operator") that plays hard. Any comments out there on these projects after a few thousand rounds or a couple hundred magazine insertions or holstering ? If this is considered a hijack please disregard and I will repost . And .....
a HUGE +1 for Teknic ........ he has been the extremely responsive to my endless questions and offered OutStanding pricing. Harold H. |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 3:20:47 PM EDT
[#40]
Moly Resin & KG Gunkote are the same product with different names. They both teflon thermal cured coatings. When recoating over the top of a thermal cured teflon coating lightly sand or media bast the surface of the existing coating then re-apply. If you are recoating internal parts I would recommend removal of all of the coating before reapplication. Joe |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 4:47:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Bandit68, How long have you had your compressor from Harbor Freight and how is it holding up? I've been thinking of picking one up from them but have been warned by other on here to be leery of any tools that are remotely complicated. OTOH, I've had good luck w/ most of the stuff I've gotten form them. I may pick up a 10 dollar dremmel and see how things go. It sucks being poor! BTW Teknic that is one sick weapon! How did you know I like black n tan's?!?  |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 5:08:33 PM EDT
[#42]
Not very long, but I have done about 10 Long guns, and so far, it works very good. It has paid for it's self twice over, compaired to the can's. |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 5:57:18 PM EDT
[#43]
I will probably do my AR & my colt 1991A1 commander. The only thing that bites is that the .45 has new trijicon sights and I'll have to either have them removed then finish the gun and they won't match. Or I can leave them on and finish the gun then pay trijicon to reload the sights.
Edwin |
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Posted: 12/13/2005 10:58:22 PM EDT
[#44]
Awesome! Maybe I'll hold off till I get another batch of lowers so I can do a few at a time. Guess it's off to harbor freight! Thanks! 
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Posted: 12/13/2005 11:01:34 PM EDT
[#45]
tag
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Posted: 12/14/2005 3:14:53 AM EDT
[#46]
I just bought Harbor Freight's compressor too. They raised the price to $59 on it. One crappy thing about Harbor Freight, expect to wait 14+ days for your stuff to arrive.
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Posted: 12/14/2005 6:06:01 PM EDT
[#47]
Don't know about the price increase, but they have a store here, so no shipping. |
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Posted: 1/6/2006 3:08:15 PM EDT
[#48]
How long did it take for you to receive your order from Norrel's? I ordered mine around Dec 24th and I still don't have it. I've emailed them for a tracking number and nothing. They say it ships within 3-10 days. They sent an email saying it shipped and that I won't get another email. I worry about mail theft so I like to know when to expect things.
Has anyone used the clear coat they sell. I was wondering if anyone has ever used it and put there own pigment in it to make there own color. If so how did it work out and what did you use? |
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Posted: 1/6/2006 3:19:27 PM EDT
[#49]
They have to send it ground shipping because it's paint and considered toxic to it take awhile. You will get it though. I ordered some also and it took awhile but it did come. This was also the second time I have ordered from them and have never had a problem. Never used the clear or mixed my own I too would be curious as to what others migh say. |
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Posted: 1/6/2006 8:22:08 PM EDT
[#50]
I have never put "color pigment" into the coating and would not recommend introducing a foriegn susbstance into the coating. I have mixed two colors of the coating together to tweak the color.
The coatings are shipped ground to avoid HAZMAT charges. I had a small container of coating from another company overnighted for a rush job and the shipping/HAZMAT charge were twice the amount of the coating. Be patient you ordered it in a holiday season, it will show up. Good luck with the refinish & post a pic when its done. Joe |
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