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Posted: 1/10/2005 11:59:01 AM EDT
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I'm not quite sure I understand exactly what you are asking, but I will try to help you out as best I can. Yes, the upper needs to be .223, or 5.56, or what is called a "Wylde" chamber. For the differences on these, you can do a search for more details but a short answer is as follows: 5.56 is NATO/Military ammo and is loaded to higher pressures which benefits from the slightly more generous chamber on a 5.56 upper. A 5.56 Upper will shoot .223 but is generally thought to be slightly less accurate due to the larger chamber. A .223 upper will most likely not cycle 5.56 NATO loads reliably, but may have the potential to be more accurate due to tighter chamber tolerances. The Wylde chamber, and I have no experience with these, is supposedly a compromise between the two and will fire and cycle 5.56 or .223. If you have no experience building rifles, or AR's specifically, and you don't want to learn, you can buy one complete. Might not be a bad idea for your first AR. You can learn about them, then build your next one. Regarding the lower, same advice as far as building vs. buying a complete lower. The lower needs to be for an AR-15 type rifle. Hope that helps. |
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You don't need to specify a .223 lower. Just make sure you're buying an AR15 lower. But you will need to make sure that the upper ( or barrel, if you're building) has the correct chamber, Jasoncap gave a good quick rundown on the differences of the cartridges. You should be able to get some more information with a couple of searches on the site. Also check out the Ammo Oracle for allot more info. CDKayak |
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If you are hellbent to build your own quickly, then I suggest picking up a Stag lower and a J&T or Model 1 Sales kit to assemble it. If you don't mind spending some time doing research, then you can piece together exactly what you want and not have to end up with extra part. |
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I'm in a similar situation as Harley, I've been reading my butt off and can't really determine what I want to do. It seems that $$$ are not really that different between kits and puchasing halfs. Seems that the real advantage of building you own is that you get the exact rifle you want and don't spend the extra money and time swapping parts out after the fact. I'm seeing about $100 jump from complete build to assembled halfs and again between halfs and a complete rifle. Am I anywhere in the ballpark? |
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I saved about $100 building from parts as opposed to buying the comparable Rock River rifle. I saved ONLY because I planned what I wanted and didn't let the "upgrades" get me. I just didn't like alot of the "kits" because sometimes you get parts from manuf. A or sometimes Manuf B. I wanted to know where the parts were coming from and what kinf of QC they went through. Of course it is a little different if you aren't betting your life on your rifle. 
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thanks evryone for helping this newby out. I have been doing alot of reading but its confusing when you don't what evrything means or the differnce between an A2 or A4 or flattop. I will continue to read more and I hope to have some more specific questions for you all. I would really like to get into these rifles though I know once I do, I might as well sign over the house cause I won't have the money to make the house payment anymorehere Anyways, thanks for all the help. Harley |
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