AR Sponsor
Posted: 12/19/2004 7:19:46 PM EDT
|
Here goes. I have been standing on the board too long. Now I'm gonna jump. Stag lower w/ jt kit. What tools are a must to get this done and done right? Thanks in advance |
If the barrel is allready on the upper, that's about all you need. Ofcourse now I own a few more tools, just to do things quicker & better.
| When I assembled my lower a set of punches, a small hammer, needle nose pliers, and masking tape all came in handy. The punches ended up being useful when driving all the pins, but also when installing the front pivot pin detent and the hammer pin. I used the needle nose pliers to slightly crimp the ends of the roll pins and to get the bolt catch pin started. |
|
I'd suggest you take the time to read the "TACKED" threads above as they contain much better information on items you will need and "how to do it" information than the fellas above have provided. FWIW, you'll find "important" information tacked to the top of most forums for  s to get up to speed on most subjects.....Welcome aboard,  Mike |
|
I just finished my first lower. Here's what I used: - a large flat head screwdriver - a pair a slip joint pliers with the teeth duct taped to drive all the pins (except trigger guard roll pin) - a bench vise (also taped) to drive the trigger guard roll pin - a 1/4" cleavis pin to do the front pivot pin (do a search for "cleavis pin" on this site for instructions) That's it. I didn't even use a hammer. When I needed to tap a pin a little I just used the back of the pliers. No scrathes or problems. Also, I'd recommend downloading and printing FALARAK's instructions. That's all I used. His instructions were terrific. The only small criticism is the "Hammer assembly" as shown on the parts sheet doesn't have the "hammer spring" in the proper position. You have to rotate the open end of the spring counter clockwise to position it correctly, so that the closed end of the spring rests against the back of the hammer. I'm going to take it to the range and zero it next week. I'll report back with pictures and details. BTW it's a DPMS lower on a J&T 20" complete kit (chrome bore) |
|
One can build the lower with few tools if one wants, but why? The proper tools are not that expensive, a whole lot cheaper than replacing a screwed up lower, so why not use the right tools for the job. I know, I know, in my trade we have a saying also "that ANYBODY can do it with the right tools, but it takes a real man to do it with the wrong ones." Well, that might be funny on the job, but when you slip and put a nice scratch on your lower, break off the trigger guard ear, or otherwise mangle your lower by using the wrong or ill fitted tools, don't blame anyone but yourself. The "Tacked" thread about building the lower has all the tools you need to get and do the job the right way. Get them and use them correctly and when you are done your lower will not only be assembled without any nightmares, but you will have the tools so you can start on your next more quickly. Quick list, see Tack for sizes. Roll pin holders help get the roll pins started with no fuss and fretting The roll pin punches finish seating the roll pins without mucking up the ends Masking Tape for masking off areas of work such as around the bolt release and magazine catch. Block of wood for supporting the trigger guard off side as you drive the pin through. 6 oz. brass hammer is all the hammer you will need. Pivot pin tool-1/4 inch clevis pin ($1) makes the hardest part of the build a 30 second job with no risk of detent and spring going to parts unknown. |
| i started assembling my mega with some cheap flea market punches, i screwed up both roll pins, so i decided to get new pins, and roll pin punches I couldnt believe how much easier it was with the correct tools. As far as the pivot pin i used a thin bladed knife and that worked well for me. |
|
this packing tape knife blade wrench for castke nut grease for buffer tube blue locktite for castle nut However, roll pin punches do make things easier. |
|
I finished my lower last night, and this is what I used: TOOLS - 8 oz. ball pein hammer - 2" long brass #6 flat head screw to use as a punch - medium screwdriver - small pocket knife PARTS - Stag stripped lower - RRA LPK w/NM trigger - A1 stock I got off off of EE - receiver extension (buffer, et al) parts from M1S Toughest job was installing the forward takedown spring and detent. After three unsuccessful tries, I used a thin blade of a small pocket knife to trap that detent in place as I removed my finger to insert the takedown pin. There's just enough clearance between the takedown pin shaft and the receiver to hold a flat object there while you insert the pin. Tricky step. The other part I didn't get quite right was the mag release catch. Once I figured it out, I already had the bolt release catch installed. I still managed to carefully spin that catch around without scratching the finish. Overall I found the whole procedure to be very easy. The brass screw I used as a punch got bent, but it did its job. The trigger guard pin was no trouble. I found that a dab of grease on the safety/fire selector where the detent makes contact with it made the selector switch work more smoothly. Like I read somewhere here before - it's like LEGO for adults. -Wolf |
|
To assemble the lower kit the only special tools you need are the roll pin punches from Brownell's, the smaller one for the bolt catch pin and the larger for the trigger guard pin. The rest of the tools required are common household tools. www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5551&title=ROLL+PIN+PUNCHES 3/32 is #3 Roll pin punch item #230-100-003 #3 Roll Pin Punch $3.75 1/8 is #4 Roll pin punch item #230-100-004 #4 Roll Pin Punch $3.83 Small item shipping $3.70 total delivered $11.28 |
AR Sponsor