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4/8/2004 10:45:04 AM EDT
In the book "The AR-15 Complete Assembly Guide" by Walt Kuleck and Clint McKee they say to use red loctite to "fuse" the barrel to the receiver. The loctite is put on the inside of the upper receiver extension and the outside of the barrel extension before installing the barrel into the receiver. They state that this adds greater support to both thereby increasing the strength of the connection.
I have no doubt that this adds strength but I do have two question and wondered if anyone who has experience using the loctite could answer.

1. - Does using the loctite give a noticeable
    difference in accuracy

2. - Are there any problems encountered with
    removing a barrel that has been loctited.
    If so, what procedure different than SOP
    is required.
4/8/2004 11:04:07 AM EDT
[#1]
I wouldn't do it.  I don't feel it's necessary.  And heat would have to be used to break the bond.  Essentially, you'd be glueing the threads together.  Loctite has a time and place.  I use it for many applications, this just isn't one of 'em.  I doubt it'd hurt though.  It would be a bitch to get 'em apart.
4/8/2004 11:06:43 AM EDT
[#2]
I can't see the point.  If you tighten the lock nut properly the barrel isn't going to move.  When it comes time to removing it you will have to put a torch to your receiver.  I'm not sure the anodizing will appreciate that.
4/8/2004 2:28:04 PM EDT
[#3]
I e-mailed Walt Kuleck after initiating this thread and his response to my questions are as follows:

1. - "Yes, but it takes a high master classification shooter to really notice.  Just as important, of even more, the “fusing” also keeps the steel barrel extension from wearing into the aluminum upper receiver quite so rapidly.  That “bear hug” keeps the two from wiggling about together.

2. - No.  If necessary, a brief application of heat from a heat gun (a hair dryer can even do the trick) or a butane torch will break the bond."


4/8/2004 3:36:47 PM EDT
[#4]


Don't do it!  

There is no need to use Loctite anywhere on an AR if it is properly assembled.  If you do, it makes future maintenance alot tougher.

4/8/2004 7:45:49 PM EDT
[#5]
On aluminum to Aluminum thead, i would not use Loc-Tite.

This might tear the threads out when you take it apart. The heat from the barrel will cook it and when it cools down it will contract and make the dried Loc-Tite very brittle.

On automotive, this is why they do not(Normal circumstances) use Loc-Tite on exhaust parts. Plus no armorers I know uses it for AR barrel nut installs.
4/8/2004 9:47:37 PM EDT
[#6]
You will notice that on todays new cars an aluminum to steel application is seperated by plastic . Steel somehow corrodes aluminum . Now I know cars are exposed to all sorts of elemental punishment but I don't think I would do the same to my guns . Loctite is made to keep things together that you don't want to come apart unless it gets broken . Do you want to try to melt your barrel off your reciever when you decide to free float or vice versa ?
4/8/2004 10:47:47 PM EDT
[#7]
I got a upper that had been loctited together, I had to use a plumbers torch for several mins and I still had to beat the barrel out using a cut down broom handle.

To each their own but I would never use that crap on an AR unless I was gluing screws on a sight mount.
4/8/2004 11:39:02 PM EDT
[#8]
Military manuals, and the various makers are all using some form of grease(moly).  I certainly wouldn't be using Loctite.
4/9/2004 12:28:21 AM EDT
[#9]
I allways applied an anti-sieze lube, never Loctite Red.
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