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Posted: 9/22/2003 3:32:22 PM EDT
Have 16" bushy uppper with standard handguards. I would like to free float this upper.

How do I go about it?

Thanx in advance
Link Posted: 9/22/2003 3:39:44 PM EDT
A2 or A3?
Link Posted: 9/22/2003 4:20:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/22/2003 4:23:33 PM EDT by omar]
Here is what I did to mine: -knocked out pin holding gas tube to front sight -knocked out tapered pins holding front site to barrel and removed front sight tower -removed gas tube -unscrewed barrel nut with DPMS wrench and removed delta and snap ring. -the delta and snap ring will not be reinstalled -screwed on ff handguard hand tight while barrel is in vise with wooden blocks and then used same DPMS wrench to tighten one more hole, ensuring hole is lined up to allow reinstallation of gas tube. I visually checked to ensure this was lined up. -repinned front sight -repinned gas tube up front I also swapped out my A2 Colt large pin upper for a RRA flat top during this process. It took just about an hour because of the tapered pins, but I will probably do it in about fifteen minutes on the next one. I think you will have to buy or borrow a tool to remove the nut, but could improvise for everything else. The DPMS tool features a pin setup that allows you to install the ff tube, otherwise, hand tight or a oil filter wrench or a FF HG tool will have to be used. I suppose a pipe wrench could be used if you wrap the HG with a towel and proceed very carefully. I recommend the DPMS wrench. I think that's everything. Jim
Link Posted: 9/22/2003 5:11:03 PM EDT
Jim's explanation is great if you have a preban upper. If yours is a postban, the process is a bit more complicated because the muzzle break is probably pinned and welded to the barrel. In order to get the front sight post and barrel nut completely off the barrel assembly to be replaced with you new nut or handguard, you will need to "defeat" the securing feature. This can be a problem if you are not properly equipped for the job. Just don't ruin a good barrel
Link Posted: 9/23/2003 5:50:47 AM EDT
The muzzle brake can be a real PIA...one option is to have a smith cut the brake off and recrown the barrel...you can get that done for about $50, and it can be easier on the barrel than machining the old one off, or heating the whole deal to the 1100 degrees needed to melt the silver solder. There's almost no way to do either of those without damaging the finish, so sometimes just doing away with the brake is the path of least resistance. I now have a 19 1/4" Armalite upper, sans the original brake. Campass lake did the work for me, and it was $60 including return shipping, IIRC.
Link Posted: 9/24/2003 2:59:07 PM EDT
I have a Bushy 16", post ban, A3, without a brake. So..... is it just a matter of following Jim's instructions since I have no brake? Anyother tips / hidden pitfalls? Definate thumbs up on the DPMS tool? Any other tools that are needed? Thank you
Link Posted: 9/24/2003 10:43:34 PM EDT
If you have carbine length hand guards, you can go with an Knight's RAS II. It free floats the barrel but also gives you rails for mounting other goodies.
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