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Posted: 8/19/2003 2:56:06 PM EDT
I've been trying to remove the safety on my Bushmaster without any luck. Should the hammer be cocked? I was told to put the safety between Fire & Safe & tap it out. It won't budge. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 8/19/2003 3:02:57 PM EDT
Try removing pistol grip screw, grip, spring and plunger first. MM419
Link Posted: 8/19/2003 3:33:07 PM EDT
It looks like the "screw" has an allen head & I need to get one that is long enough to reach inside that deep. Mine are too short. What about the hammer position?
Link Posted: 8/19/2003 4:01:59 PM EDT
tap it out with hammer cocked
Link Posted: 8/19/2003 4:11:29 PM EDT
1; You had also better trot your ass to a hardware store and buy a long allen wrench right now, before you really, really need one. Put it where you won't lose it. Cheers!
Link Posted: 8/19/2003 6:14:28 PM EDT
Thanks, I got it out after buying a "Pachmayr 31 p[iece gunsmith screwdriver set" at Wallyworld for $12.97. I didn't realize that the screw needed to be removed first. Thanks again!! Hope its not difficult to re-assemble. I'm doing the 15 minute trigger job. Wish me luck. Alan
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 3:41:23 AM EDT
Dude, not to flame you but you might want to consider learning abit more about your AR before you go messing with the trigger.
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 4:09:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/20/2003 4:09:52 AM EDT by thebloke]
Curt is right, we dont want to put a dampener on you but if you didnt know how to remove the safety I wouldnt be messing with the trigger. Learn a bit more about your gun first. Good luck.....
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 4:46:37 AM EDT
The Bushmaster owners manual doesn't suggest disassemblying the trigger but I didn't have any problems once I got the grip off. It did take more than 15 minutes to do the trigger job and reassemble- had problem getting hammer retaining pin in. Anyway its all together & I learned quite abit. Thanks for all the help though. Alan
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 5:03:04 AM EDT
Originally Posted By curt: Dude, not to flame you but you might want to consider learning abit more about your AR before you go messing with the trigger.
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Originally Posted By thebloke: Curt is right, we dont want to put a dampener on you but if you didnt know how to remove the safety I wouldnt be messing with the trigger. Learn a bit more about your gun first. Good luck.....
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Nervous Ninnies. This is the simplest of simple jobs. This is definitely a good place to start learning how the AR works. This is, after all, the BIY forum. [b]Definitely function check your rifle after re-assembly[/b] [url=http://www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html]15 Minute Trigger Job[/url]
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 5:09:22 AM EDT
just be careful putting the safety back in! the handle goes on the left. if you put it in so the handle is on the right (backward) it will fire full auto!
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 5:11:17 AM EDT
You're supposed to be able to put it halfway between safe and fire, then tap it out. I've only had that work on one rifle...everything else I've had to pull the grip off.
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 9:20:33 AM EDT
Sorry for the stupid question, but is it true that installing the safety in backwards will cause an AR to shoot in full auto? Or were you just kidding around?
Link Posted: 8/20/2003 7:46:04 PM EDT
farmerboy, he is jacking around, looking for a fresh fish!
Link Posted: 8/21/2003 4:22:54 AM EDT
You know, I thought so, but just couldn't keep from asking. Could someone help me get this hook out of my lip???
Link Posted: 8/21/2003 5:39:29 AM EDT
I replaced the trigger on my Bushmaster, and I didn't need to remove the safety lever or the grip. Just tapped out the hammer and trigger pins and lifted out the parts. Why did you need to remove the safety?
Link Posted: 8/21/2003 9:18:18 AM EDT
A stock trigger should come out without having to remove the safety. It can appear, to those who've never messed with triggers, that it won't, but it will if you do it right. My Armalite match trigger has a longer back piece, and will not come out with the safety installed.
Link Posted: 8/21/2003 9:45:08 AM EDT
Since I'd never been inside the lower assembly and wanted & needed the trigger job done is why I did it. I followed instructions that said remove the safety and after removing the grip screw, it came right out. The trigger feels so much better now. I put in a dummy cartrige & dry fired several times & checked safety & I love it. Will head to the range Sat. morning (its over 100 deg. today) and burn up a few hundred rounds. My thanks to A Freeman!
Link Posted: 8/21/2003 10:29:33 AM EDT
1dreamer, I started out with this hammer spring modification, but I eventually invested in a good two-stage trigger (Rock River). While the trigger pull is lower after performing this modification, it comes at the price of weaker hammer spring pressure. This has two effects, an increase in the possibility of failure to ignite primers and an increase in action "lock time". While the trigger is easier to pull you have to hold the rifle steady longer afterwards (during the follow-through), since it takes the hammer longer to fall with the weaker spring. Just something to consider.
Link Posted: 8/21/2003 7:45:56 PM EDT
Make sure you put the plunger back in, followed with the spring when you put the safety back in.
Link Posted: 8/22/2003 4:03:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2003 4:07:36 AM EDT by philsAR]
Originally Posted By ks_shooter: 1dreamer, I started out with this hammer spring modification, but I eventually invested in a good two-stage trigger (Rock River). While the trigger pull is lower after performing this modification, it comes at the price of weaker hammer spring pressure. This has two effects, an increase in the possibility of failure to ignite primers and an increase in action "lock time". While the trigger is easier to pull you have to hold the rifle steady longer afterwards (during the follow-through), since it takes the hammer longer to fall with the weaker spring. Just something to consider.
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This is all potentially true. However, I've put about 600-700 through my rifle since 15 minute trigger job. Not even one single fail to fire due to weak hammer spring. As far a lock time, when you reduce the weight of the hammer, this quickens the pace quite a bit. Can't tell a difference between old and new lock time. Accuracy increased, did not decrease due to long lock time. In addition to the 15 minute job, I added a set screw up through the grip screw hole to take up much of the slop from the trigger. Gotta be careful here though, fine line between all the slop is gone and the double tap syndrome. All this being said... Nothing beats a really nice aftermarket adjustable trigger. But, since they start at $120 and go up, this is a fun, and cheap alternative. 15 minute job - free set screw to take up the slop - $.24 The experience and fun of working on your AR-15 - [b]PRICELESS[/b]
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