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Posted: 8/3/2003 7:58:41 PM EDT
Hey Guys

I'm goiong to post this here too, maybe it will get more hits.

I'm very new at this so bear with me. I have lots of questions about J&T's Kits.

I would like something very accurate. Mostly 200yrd and under, but up to 500 and beyond. It will most likely have the IOR M2 4x24, IOR Super M2 6x32, IOR 2.5-10x40 or the IOR 4-14x50

First I'm looking at the Bull Barrel Kit

Bull Barrel Questions

1. The A-2 Stock with adjustible butt plate, how does it adjust? UP, Down, In, Out? Does anyone have a pic of one of these?
2. Is it worth getting a 2 stage trigger, and if so which one, what are the advantages.
3. The bolt Group, What is the difference between, Standard, Crome Carrier assy. and the TiN carrier assy.
4 How is the harris bypod mounted, to the FF tube? Does that effect it in any way?
5. Would you recommend the Standard Flat top or the High rise? What if I also want Iron sights?
6. You thoughs on the intergrated muzzle brake, get it or not?
7. titanium firing pin worth the $$
8. what is a picatinny rail
9. Should I stick with a 20" barrel or go longer?

Now on to the

Complete 16" CAR Kit and M4 Kit Questions

1. are the only differences the Barrels?
2. Whay is the M4 called a Mock Barrel?
3. Can you get the CAR crome lined?

Well I'll probally have more ?s before I finally buy on I'm pretty set on J$T. Thanks to anyone that helps.

One more

what are the best lowers to assemble on these? I've heard good things abou RRA
Link Posted: 8/4/2003 7:51:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/4/2003 7:52:43 AM EDT by JimTh]
Hi Rusty, I'll take a whack at your bull barrel questions. 1. The A-2 Stock with adjustible butt plate, how does it adjust? UP, Down, In, Out? Does anyone have a pic of one of these? Sorry, dunno. 2. Is it worth getting a 2 stage trigger, and if so which one, what are the advantages. What are you using it for? I think, 2 stage would be good for prairie dogs and target shooting. Things on the move, like coyotes, I want a single stage. (this comment from a person who has never used a 2 stage but thinks he understands the concept) 3. The bolt Group, What is the difference between, Standard, Crome Carrier assy. and the TiN carrier assy. Not sure, but I doubt that _I_ could tell the difference. 4 How is the harris bypod mounted, to the FF tube? Does that effect it in any way? Aha! I'm all over this one. The FF tube has slots in it. J&T will try to sell you a #5 Harris Bipod adapter. Unless one of the slots is lined up perfectly at 6 o'clock, you will have to drill a hole in your FF tube. Even if one of your slots is lined up perfectly, you'll have to put the adapter in upside down. 5. Would you recommend the Standard Flat top or the High rise? What if I also want Iron sights? I wish I had bought a high rise so I wouldn't have had to buy BM mini-risers. I think the scope is way too low without some type of riser. I dunno about the iron sights. 6. You thoughs on the intergrated muzzle brake, get it or not? Depends on your target. I think people like them for prairie dogs because they reduce muzzle jump and they can keep the target in the scope. I've heard they make them considerably louder. I experienced a muzzle brake on an AR10 and it was a hair raising experience. 7. titanium firing pin worth the $$ Dunno, not to me. 8. what is a picatinny rail I'm guessin that a picatinny is just like a weaver but slotted across it. 9. Should I stick with a 20" barrel or go longer? I got a 16" stainless bull fluted. I'm a hardwoods hunter though. I get in some real brushy stuff. If you're target shooting or prairie dog shooting, I'd say 20 or 24 so you get a little more muzzle velocity. But, a 24" bull barrel would be a pain to lug around I think. HTH Jim Oops, forgot about the lowers. I used a Stinger lower. I think they're going by Mega now. No problems, very good color.
Link Posted: 8/4/2003 12:51:26 PM EDT
Here is my take on your questions, in no real order hehehe: I'm not so sure the extra weight of a bull barrel is really justified for what you have in mind...the extra length, yes...but there's no guarantee the bull barrel will be any more accurate than the HBAR. You'll get the highest muzzle velocity out of a 24" barrel...but I can't tell you HOW much more (I'm sure someone else can), OR if it will be that much of a difference in making the shot or not. The extra length and weight together will make the rifle a chore to carry around, that I can tell you. A really accurate 20" barrel, like the Bushy Vmatch, can probably get your round on targe as well as anything else, out to reasonable ranges...and it's not a bull barrel. I had a 16" bull barrel upper, and it was fairly heavy...add 8 more inches of almost 1" steel and it's really gonna seem heavy. As far as the bolt carrier, I don't know that I'd worry about it...you'll wear the barrel out much sooner than the bolt carrier, and I don't know that the extra cost associated with chrome or anything else gets you a performance gain. It's kinda like the titanium firing pin...other folks sell them, but no one here will say they see any benefit to them, I don't believe. Supposedly they give "faster lock times"...but they never give you any more details on why that's gonna be good for whatever type of shooting you do. Standard flat top gives you a lot more mounting options as far as sights...if you ever wanted to use iron sights of some variety, for instance. IF you're completely sure that you'll never take the scope off this rifle, and will never need it to do anything BUT be a varmning type rifle, then the high rise will probably be ok, but if you want any kind of BUIS on there, you're better off with the regular flat top, IMHO. Muzzle brakes tend to impede accuracy...a good target crown will work for you better, I think. Picatinny rails are slightly larger than Weaver, I believe...I recall reading a thread about having to file the edges of a Picatinny rail to accept Weaver rail stuff. I could be wrong on that, so you may have to research this one. Also, if you want as much accuracy as you can get, then most folks would say stay away from chrome lining. Also, since you sorta say this won't be a SHTF type of rifle, you don't need the chrome lining. I know the M4 post ban guns have the fake suppressors pressed on...but I think there is a slight contour difference as well between the real ones and the post ban barrels as well. If you order a kit with a float tube, have them mount the stud for you...then you just mount the bipod right to the stud....you don't need the adapter. I'm pretty sure a 20" rifle with a tube and a match barrel, along with a match trigger--I'd suggest the Armalite one--will be all you need to do the kind of shooting you describe. And the beauty of ARs is you can always get another upper hehehe...in whatever flavor you want.
Link Posted: 8/9/2003 7:33:00 AM EDT
Here we go.... 1.Adjustable buttstock you can get to move in and out and up and down....This is a comp type buttstock. 2.Two stage trigger is good for competiton shooting, you can adjust it.I just polish up a regular trigger and moly lube it and it feels smooth to the pull. 3.The military use standard bolt groups, and so do I. They last just as good and cost less. 4.Dont know about mounting bipods..sorry. 5.Get a flat top and carry handle and you have best of both worlds. 6.Muzzel brake helps with flip but seem to make more of a bang!Crowned muzzel seems to be a touch more accurate..I have both, but it looks good on a carbine barrel. 7.Titanium firing pin is expensive,just buy a spare parts kit and it includes a spare.Some say the lock time is faster with a titanium pin but i say i bet you cant tell. 8.Picatinny rail is like a weaver. 9.I wouldnt bother with more than a 20" if your wandering the woods with your gun, but if you are going on a range most of the time you can use a 24" for that little extra ooomf. 16" carbine... 1.Just the barrel. 2.Dont know, never heard it called that. 3.Yes you can get a chromed lined 16" carbine barrel.They are better to clean than unchromed. For lowers, I have my guns built on T3 forged Olympic Arms lowers and am very pleased with there quality.
Link Posted: 8/10/2003 4:16:10 PM EDT
M4 Mock barrels fulfill the 16" requirement. Real military barrels are 14.5". Even with the bayo lug you can't put a bayonet on a 16", the distance between the flash hider and lug is too long. 20" barrels with the long gas tube work, but as far as I know AR15's with legal 16" barrels don't mount a bayo. I could be wrong.
Link Posted: 8/10/2003 8:07:18 PM EDT
OK, I'll take my stab now to either cause trouble or bring consensus... 1. I have never bought the one from J&T, but the one I have seen, with tools, adjusts in, out, and tilt. 2. I am a big fan of the 2 stage for all types of shooting. I have ARs in both types that both shoot well, I think it's a matter of personal preference. 3. Chrome, of which I have none, I've been told feels like it's riding on ball bearings. I've also heard they prematurely wear. I have not have any problem with my standard bolts. TiN I have never seen on an AR but it is a unbelievably durable finish. 4. No bipod experience, but that's what I'd say. I have a four rail gas block on one of my carbines, I'd still attach it to the handguard. 5. My money gets set on the standard flat top for greater versatility, i.e., want a EoTech someday, it's designed to sit on a regular flattop. Risers can take care of height issues and you have options that way. 6. YMMV. Everyone has a different answer. I shoot Lake City Surplus which is pretty hot and I'm fine without it. 7. General consensus -- NO. In fact, it's worse according to many. I personally have none. 8. Stolen from a post by Walt Kuleck: > Dick Swan designed a dovetail system to be compatible with the original > commercial Weaver mount, albeit with a slightly wider cross groove for > strength. This design (which is patented by Dick) was taken up by Colt > and subsequently standardized by Picatinny Arsenal under the > specification STandard NAto AGreement 1913. > > It has come to be called the "Picatinny Rail" because of the activity > that NATO-standardized the design, but it is properly referred to as the > "Swan/Weaver Rail." > > Swan/Weaver rails will accept Weaver rings. However, while STANAG 1913 > rings will slide onto Weaver bases, the cross-bolt is wider than the > commercial Weaver cross slot. 9. Depends on application. If it's your first I'd personally recommend a 20", there isn't much you can't do with it. The longer ones tend to be heavy and unpleasant to haul for long periods. I won't comment on the kit, I have never bought. I love RRA lowers. -Dan
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