I posted a topic on this a while back and got some great advice. I now need help as I have begun removal of the AK brake on my Bushmaster 14.5 upper I am going to install a KKF A3 fake brake to retain 16 inch legal length.

Question pertains to past reply about cutting grooves length wise in the AK Brake and splitting it off?

I have drilled out the blind pins and cut the grooves how do I split the thing?

Can I just twist it off or should I continue cutting grooves until it falls off?

I have only cut the brake making sure to stay away from vital parts of barrel.

I believe on the 14.5 BM's the AK brake threads on and is pinned only?

Even so the person who replied stated he split his off with some sort of tool???

Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated
Thanks

Before i go any further make sure you permanently reattatch the other brake back on after you remove the original one the ones i have seen from BM have to be turned down on a lathe to the pins then can be drilled out.
its a pain in the butt but thats the best and most accurate way to do it of course this requires it be removed from the upper so you have to decide is it really worth all the hassle

good luck
GOD HATES A COWARD!

Already have the pin drilled out nothing there.
I have 4 length wise cuts with dremmel tool down the AK brake. My question is how do I split it off or is the 14.5 inch BBL Bushmaster threaded? Do I just turn it off?

I posted this question a while back but now doing a search I cannot find it to answer my question if the poster is out there I need some help.

Has anyone removed the AK brake from a Bushy themselves????

Any help out there?

If there is no evidence of any other mechanical or chemical fixing,then attempt to undo the brake by normal means.This ensures that no exraordinary forces are applied to the barrel.The brake will then do 1 of 3 things.
1)undo normally
2) begin to break up(depending on how far along you cut through to the threads)and fall off.
3) Not budge
If 3, check again for concealed fixings as some brakes are fitted without the pins being visible to the naked eye,remove these if necessary,and try undoing it again.If 3 again,and you are absolutely sure there are no other mechanical fixings,suspect chemical fixing and apply some heat to melt the bonding whilst undoing the brake.If 3 again, use  a tapered punch large enough the expand the brake or wedges driven in longitudinally (sorry,lengthwise) to the same effect.This will ensure that no lateral bending forces are applied to the thread/barrel.Try unscrewing the brake again.Progressively  increase wedging action until you can remove it or the brake disintergrates.
If 3 again suspect silver soldering and heat to a much higher temperature to melt solder and repeat unscrewing procedure(Try this before the wedging stage!)

If any of the above don't move it then it has been puddle welded or some other technique in that case,cut off as much of the brake as possible without touching the barrel proper,and machine what is left down to 0.5" in a lathe using a dog and rolling centres and centre support bearing,and cut a new 0.5"X28 thread!

Bushmaster 5.5 had 2 pins, never seen them.. I just turned the front half off, cracked in the middle of the cut, look closely, should be able to see it. Then I warmed the small piece, it simply unscrewed. Perfect threads remained.

[img]http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/p891547a10c820cea808bcb4822a50566/fc510dd6.jpg[/img]

BM doesn't make a "post-ban" 14.5 inch barrel; all of them are threaded, so you should be able to simply drill out the pins, and twist it right off.