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Page AR-15 » Lights and Lasers
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Posted: 8/25/2017 11:00:36 AM EDT
On my SBR, the front end of the handguard is fairly crowded with a front sight, handstop, light mount and light. Currently have a TLR-1 mounted, but considering moving to a narrower/less bulky light. But at the same time, I'd like the light to be short, so that it doesn't interfere with my hand and also doesn't stick out into the blast zone. Preferably using 1 CR123A battery. Are there any budget light options that meet this criteria?



Also, how are other SBR/pistol owners dealing with the crowding near the front of the handguard? I suppose a pistol grip is one option, and not bothering with iron sights is another.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 11:56:01 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
On my SBR, the front end of the handguard is fairly crowded with a front sight, handstop, light mount and light. Currently have a TLR-1 mounted, but considering moving to a narrower/less bulky light. But at the same time, I'd like the light to be short, so that it doesn't interfere with my hand and also doesn't stick out into the blast zone. Preferably using 1 CR123A battery. Are there any budget light options that meet this criteria?

http://i.imgur.com/TY7XQso.jpg

Also, how are other SBR/pistol owners dealing with the crowding near the front of the handguard? I suppose a pistol grip is one option, and not bothering with iron sights is another.
View Quote


Crowded?


Throw a DBAL-D2 up there.... then it will be crowded.

Maybe try a WML on a IWC 45* 1913 mount?


http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/45-offset-1913-rail-smc-light-mount/

http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/inforce-wml-weapon-light-400-lumens-white-light-gen-2/

Alternately, you could put the WML on top and move your BUIS behind the flashlight.

Or


But this is for a Surefire
https://tangodown.com/shop/tangodowntm-light-portal-front-sight-ffa-02/

This one works with the Surefire 6P.
http://www.roschworks.com/site/mobile?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.roschworks.com%2FSLM1.php#2825
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 12:46:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks, I appreciate all the suggestions and links.  

I'm not a fan of that IWC offset mount, though this is more of an aesthetic thing. Also, I already have a IWC Radial mount, so I'd prefer to work with what I have rather than buy another mount.

The Inforce is a bit out of my budget. I'm aiming for sub-$60 for the light.

BUIS behind the light is a good idea - I'll have to try that and see how it affects hand position and thumb activation of light. It might end up pushing my hand too far back because there's very little room to hang the light forward of the handguard without exposing it to blast. Thumb activation should be ok with a paddle switch activated light like the TLR-1. Might require more distance between light and front sight for tailcap switch light. But I'll play around with it and see.

The light-modified front sights are interesting, and a friend has one, and they're available for more than just Surefire lights, but they are pricey.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 1:20:18 PM EDT
[#3]
You could purchase an economy-type laser/LED combo unit, then mount it on top of your rail and lose the SF LED light.  Sightmark, Laserlyte (K15) has one and also Holosun has a decent lookin option that's newer.  Run the pressure pad switch to your vertical grip.  For my purposes, I can't see spending the money on a DBAL, so "the above" is my plan for a couple of my SBR's.

I own and have owned and used the high end mil optics and the low end economy ones too.  By removing the SF light, I'm not suggesting the economy options are as good. Just less money and another option for your desires for a more compact solution.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 5:11:19 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Thanks, I appreciate all the suggestions and links.  

I'm not a fan of that IWC offset mount, though this is more of an aesthetic thing. Also, I already have a IWC Radial mount, so I'd prefer to work with what I have rather than buy another mount.

The Inforce is a bit out of my budget. I'm aiming for sub-$60 for the light.

BUIS behind the light is a good idea - I'll have to try that and see how it affects hand position and thumb activation of light. It might end up pushing my hand too far back because there's very little room to hang the light forward of the handguard without exposing it to blast. Thumb activation should be ok with a paddle switch activated light like the TLR-1. Might require more distance between light and front sight for tailcap switch light. But I'll play around with it and see.

The light-modified front sights are interesting, and a friend has one, and they're available for more than just Surefire lights, but they are pricey.
View Quote
I have seen the WML (single battery) go for way WAY under retail on the EE.

And I'm pretty sure the WML would work fine with that mount (assuming you have the little 1913 rail)

Heck, your TLR-1 should work with it. Trying moving the mount out one more slot and if you have 1 o'clock mlok slots, move your mount there. Wrap your light bezel (not the glass) in electrical tape to protect it from muzzle blast.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 6:02:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I have seen the WML (single battery) go for way WAY under retail on the EE.

And I'm pretty sure the WML would work fine with that mount (assuming you have the little 1913 rail)

Heck, your TLR-1 should work with it. Trying moving the mount out one more slot and if you have 1 o'clock mlok slots, move your mount there. Wrap your light bezel (not the glass) in electrical tape to protect it from muzzle blast.
View Quote
The TLR-1 does work with the IWC Radial mount - that's the setup in the pic; WML would also fit on the IWC mount. The TLR-1 is just too bulky for a SBR.

I'll keep an eye out for the WML in the EE.

Why electrical tape? Seems like that would make a gooey mess around the bezel.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 9:14:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The TLR-1 does work with the IWC Radial mount - that's the setup in the pic; WML would also fit on the IWC mount. The TLR-1 is just too bulky for a SBR.

I'll keep an eye out for the WML in the EE.

Why electrical tape? Seems like that would make a gooey mess around the bezel.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:


I have seen the WML (single battery) go for way WAY under retail on the EE.

And I'm pretty sure the WML would work fine with that mount (assuming you have the little 1913 rail)

Heck, your TLR-1 should work with it. Trying moving the mount out one more slot and if you have 1 o'clock mlok slots, move your mount there. Wrap your light bezel (not the glass) in electrical tape to protect it from muzzle blast.
The TLR-1 does work with the IWC Radial mount - that's the setup in the pic; WML would also fit on the IWC mount. The TLR-1 is just too bulky for a SBR.

I'll keep an eye out for the WML in the EE.

Why electrical tape? Seems like that would make a gooey mess around the bezel.
The point of the mount you are using is to push the light out beyond the end of your rail. If you put your light out there, it's gonna get a lot of carbon on it due to the muzzle blast. It won't really affect anything, but it will get dirty. I guess you could use dark masking tape to accomplish the same thing.



Here is a pic with the mount at the 11 oclock with no light. Are you right or left handed?
Link Posted: 8/26/2017 10:32:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The point of the mount you are using is to push the light out beyond the end of your rail. If you put your light out there, it's gonna get a lot of carbon on it due to the muzzle blast. It won't really affect anything, but it will get dirty. I guess you could use dark masking tape to accomplish the same thing.

http://i.imgur.com/M8IA0C5.jpg

Here is a pic with the mount at the 11 oclock with no light. Are you right or left handed?
View Quote
Right handed, so for a tail cap activated light, I'd go with mounting at 1 oclock. Yes, I know the mount is designed to push the light out past the rail, and that works great on rail/barrel combos where there is some space between end of rail and gas ports on muzzle device. With SBR/pistol setups, there is often very little space. I rarely see pics of people mounting lights such that the bezel of the light is about even with the end of the muzzle device and thus exposed to full force of the ported gases. I know that LED lights are much more durable than bulb lights, but I imagine that this mounting arrangement would shorten the life of the light.

+1 on masking tape. Even if I mount the light such that the bezel is about in line with the beginning of the gas ports, it will still get lots of carbon fouling, so I get the tape idea. I was just thinking of the times I've had to remove electrical tape from objects that got warm, nevermind as hot as a light would get from muzzle gas.
Link Posted: 8/26/2017 2:33:34 PM EDT
[#8]
Yeah, that's why I said maybe masking tape.


I still suggest maybe finding a WML and putting it at 12 o'clock. They have been going for $75 on EE. That's (IMHO) your best bet.

Or even a WML on the mount you already have. Since it's a thumb activated light, you would probably move it to 11 o'clock.
Link Posted: 9/18/2017 10:47:51 AM EDT
[#9]
I had the same issue on my pistol. I just settled on the Streamlight Protac Railmount 1 with a BCM Keymod Scout mount. It puts the light up out of the way and doesn't interfere with my hand grip.



Link Posted: 9/18/2017 11:16:50 PM EDT
[#10]
I've mounted a Streamlight RM2 at 11 and 1 on that rail using the Radial Mount.  Not easy but doable.  Can't imagine an RM1 not working the same way.
Link Posted: 9/19/2017 9:42:09 AM EDT
[#11]
If you are willing to go fixed front the RoschWorks, V7, etc. style with 1" ring and integrated front sight will allow full ambi use, save weight, etc. The only budget alternative 1 cell light I recommend other than Surefire ir Elzetta is the 300 lumen Arisaka M300.

Link Posted: 9/22/2017 6:33:06 AM EDT
[#12]
I have the SL1 version with the inebriated light. I love the 12:00 light location for true ambidextrous work and it keeps the rest of the rail free. I have a RDS with 1/3 co-witness.
Link Posted: 9/26/2017 9:41:24 PM EDT
[#13]
A TLR NEEDS NO MOUNT DO YOU MEAN THE mlok RAIL SECTION i KNOW OF NO LIGHT Smaller THAN A TLR-1, perhaps look a t a different mount

like this one from arson
Link Posted: 10/8/2017 7:10:17 PM EDT
[#14]
I mount my M300 in the 11 o'clock position, like so (BCM offset mount):

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