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Posted: 10/13/2013 11:45:02 PM EDT
http://roschworks.com/
I have been playing with this for a while, and here are my impressions: The lumen rating is pretty accurate. I have a 280 OTF lumen Malkoff M31 module that is EVER SO SLIGHTLY brighter to my eyes. I would say 250 OTF is spot-on after warm-up. Crank-up may be a touch more. Tint is right at 6-6500K. It's "cooler" than we have been led to believe is "good" for picking the prettiest flowers at night, but it will illuminate things very well, and will scramble vision as well as anything could hope to, if you could hope for that result. The build quality is just as good as the pictures in this thread indicate. It is EXTREMELY lightweight without one bit of "cheap" to the feeling of operating it. The threads are pre-lubricated correctly, as are O-rings. The beam is very well focused. There is no "trash" or "cree rings" to it (the XPG-2's are great about that, anyway), and the hot-spot and spill are very well compromised with each other, slightly more focused than my other M61 modules. The "guts" are fully potted with thermal epoxy, typical of Malkoff's ultra-reliable modules that you are already familiar with. In this light, Malkoff and Rosch appear to have decided upon an aluminum instead of brass heat-sink. This allows less thermal mass, but much better heat-conduction away from the LED. The real benefit here is that the product is probably a full ounce or two lighter for the decision with no negatives that I can quantify. Great call! The switchology is stoopid simple and works. Nothing else can really be said. The button is recessed into the tail-cap so that it must directly be pressed---you can tail-stand the light and press on the bezel and it won't activate. Also, the white letters are also deeply recessed. If you notice them while behind the gun. Well. You're counting snowflakes while your house is burning. Noone can help you. The lens is recessed deeply into the head of the light, which is great for keeping soot off of it, as well as shock, and impact resistance. I do, however, feel that the chemical and scratch resistance of the sapphire lens is a great idea and am very glad that Rosch Works is considering it. Currently, a hard coat acrylic lens similar to other lenses by Malkoff is being used. When mounted on a weapon, the foot-print of the light is almost completely invisible viewed from my Eotech EXPS3-0. You gain 1.5" of rail-space (roughly) and 2.5" of sight-radius, as compared to the X300U/Daniel Defense FSB combo (which the rifle pictured is setup for, with the X300 pressed against the FSB). I don't know how good/bad it will be for spotlighting pigs at 200 yards, but I think for home defense or urban usage, it is one hell of a solution. Basically, if 2-300 lumens of well-managed light is the need, this is the answer. Rail space is very well preserved. 
The M300B is the "top dog" as far as 1 CR123 lights go, in my opinion, for throw. However, this light does pretty well closer in, with a lot larger/smoother blending of the hot-spot. Here are 35 and 100 meter beamshots of both. Tonight I had more cloud-bounce, but the settings I used are identical in both photos, and my eyes agree with the photographs as well as they can. I am VERY IMPRESSED! I think the SL-1 hits its goal of 50m usefulness very easily, and beyond. For urban work, or dense wooded areas, I think it's great. If all else fails, slap an X300U on the 9 or 3 of the rail for hog hunting or whatever, but the SL-1 is definitely NOT under-powered. I think the blend of throw and spill are near perfect for its output level. Inevitable comparison to the other top-tier 1 CR123 weapon light: Light-metering mode is set to "average" for all shots, 1250 ISO, "White balance: fluorescent". M300B, 50 yards to AC units: 
SL-1, 50 yards to AC units: 
M300B, Building at 25 yards: 
SL-1, Building at 25 yards: 
M300B, 15 yards to gap in fence: 
SL-1, 15 yards to gap in fence: 
M300B, 20 yards to target: 
SL-1, 20 yards to target: 
M300B 30 yards to target: 
SL-1 30 yards to target: 
M300B 40 yards to target: 
SL-1 40 yards to target: 
M300B 50 yards to target: 
SL-1 50 yards to target: 
M300B into brush/trees on trail-side close-by: 
SL-1 into brush/trees on trail-side close-by: 
M300B, targets at 25 yards: 
SL-1, targets at 25 yards: 
It is my opinion that for most things that you will NEED a weapon-light for, the SL-1's beam profile offers much more utility, and will allow faster, and better threat detection and less distraction from the hot-spot. If you are using this for hunting or predator control, better solutions than either exist at much lower price-points. ************* Mike Pannone's review: http://www.defensereview.com/rosch-works-rw-sl1-sight-light-review-making-the-most-of-your-ar-15m4m4a1-carbinesbrs-tactical-real-estate/ |
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Interesting. The activation for constant on is done by twisting the tailcap? From the pictures, there isn't any knurling for positive contact. How difficult is it to twist? The threads are very nicely machined, and the tension is provided by an O-ring which acts as a waterproofing seal, as well as to provide tension for tightening/loosening. It feels like a fine piece of machinery and is ideal in amount of force required, IMO. So much so that I didn't even think about the issue until you brought it up. It feels similar to my Surefire 6P. |
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Interesting...
Now if they would come up with a better switch/activation setup, I could see them selling a lot of them. The Surefire/Streamlight paddles are just right for the location, for me at least. You say it gives you extra rail space, but in reality it's not saving you any because you have to leave room for thumb clearance to activate the light. How much elevation adjustment can you get out of it? Doesn't look like a lot. |
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Interesting... Now if they would come up with a better switch/activation setup, I could see them selling a lot of them. The Surefire/Streamlight paddles are just right for the location, for me at least. You say it gives you extra rail space, but in reality it's not saving you any because you have to leave room for thumb clearance to activate the light. How much elevation adjustment can you get out of it? Doesn't look like a lot. -The switch is my favorite part of it. What do you dislike about it? Yes, the Surefire "paddles" are nice, but they also cause light ND's and are easier to break. What do you think they should change? -I do not know the technical specification for total distance adjustable of the FSP, but it is sufficient that if you do not have an issue with your rail or rear BUIS or upper, it will be fine for any practical zero. http://www.roschworks.com/uploads/Procedure_for_Zero.pdf -They spent a lot of time on designing it so that this would not be an issue, initially using a spring-loaded mil-spec type detent system. There simply was not room enough for it, and they went to an infinite adjustable friction type system as you see currently. They were planning to use 3 FSP's of different length with the detent system to achieve full spectrum adjustment, but found that the setup you see offered did not require any of that hoopla to function just fine. I believe adjustment-range is a non-issue for the setup. -Yes, you do have to move your thumb to use the light, but that still doesn't negate the nearly 2.5" of sight-radius that you gain, mainly applicable to SBR uses. This puts the sight radius right around that 14" mark vs. back in the 11-12" range with the X300 / TLR type setups. http://kyledefoor.tumblr.com/post/42282097574/some-new-discoveries-with-irons-first-some |
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That's a great solution from Unity.
The tradeoffs are cost, weight, visibility (around the gadgets), lumens, hand/thumb position, ambidextricity (is it a word?), packing form factor in a case/bag, speed of battery replacement, and just overall simplicity. (I'm the designer of the SL1 so you know what I'd probably favor but it's not the same choice for all people. Many will want one and many the other.) Sorry about the old NGA avatar. Can't seem to disable it. I'll replace it soon but it brings back wistful memories. |
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Looks like Unity Tactical answered your concerns on the the TLR-1 / X300 paddles... https://scontent-b-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q71/s720x720/1186196_682108848479379_387723108_n.jpg I like this a lot. ~Augee |
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Quoted: The light and mount are a monolithic unit. It is correct height to co-witness with anything that would co-witness with F-marked FSB. Quoted: Quoted: So you cant switch out the mount? I would like to run it at 11 o'clock instead. The light and mount are a monolithic unit. It is correct height to co-witness with anything that would co-witness with F-marked FSB. |
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Damn that sucks since I have a FSB, but it might be good for LW build. Quoted:
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So you cant switch out the mount? I would like to run it at 11 o'clock instead. The light and mount are a monolithic unit. It is correct height to co-witness with anything that would co-witness with F-marked FSB. I think it's a benefit. It also makes it unique to the market. It's a great setup, very light, very durable, and offers LED components from one of, if not THE best source---Gene Malkoff. The head is infinitely upgradeable with time so you will never be stuck with an "out of date" LED, When Rosch/Malkoff upgrade, you buy the new head. Cheaper than a new light, by far! |
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