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Posted: 2/15/2012 7:58:55 AM EDT
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I am looking at a sling mount go go on the buffer tude w/o taking off the castle nut. I will be running the Magpul MS3 sling. Any ideas?
Will this work? http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Daniel-Defense-EZ-Carbine-QD-Swivel-Attachment-p/dd-5002%20s.htm http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Midwest-Industries-MCTAR-13-p/mctar-13.htm |
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I'm one who prefers not to mess with the factory staking from Colt, HK, BCM and the like. This would suit your needs.
M.A.D. Hook Up 
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I'm one who prefers not to mess with the factory staking from Colt, HK, BCM and the like. This would suit your needs. M.A.D. Hook Up http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0097/6332/products/dsc_1956_1.jpg?409 I really like that. Are you able to collapse the butt stock all the way to the last notch? |
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I'm one who prefers not to mess with the factory staking from Colt, HK, BCM and the like. This would suit your needs. M.A.D. Hook Up http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0097/6332/products/dsc_1956_1.jpg?409 I really like that. Are you able to collapse the butt stock all the way to the last notch? It will go from 6 position stock to 5 position stock with that... Everything is a trade off |
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I'm one who prefers not to mess with the factory staking from Colt, HK, BCM and the like. This would suit your needs. M.A.D. Hook Up http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0097/6332/products/dsc_1956_1.jpg?409 I really like that. Are you able to collapse the butt stock all the way to the last notch? It will go from 6 position stock to 5 position stock with that... Everything is a trade off Exactly. The top clamp takes up approx. 1/2" behind the castle nut. |
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While I always applaud folks who come up with and market new solutions - I'm not to big on losing a stock position.
I've also re-staked Colt lowers using the screwdriver tip of Gerber, a standard hammer, and a buddy to sit on the lower while I tighten the castle nut and stake. I'm not terribly worried about or afraid of staking a new carbine end plate. With the proper tools, it's stupid easy and can be done in minutes. ~Augee |
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While I always applaud folks who come up with and market new solutions - I'm not to big on losing a stock position. I've also re-staked Colt lowers using the screwdriver tip of Gerber, a standard hammer, and a buddy to sit on the lower while I tighten the castle nut and stake. I'm not terribly worried about or afraid of staking a new carbine end plate. With the proper tools, it's stupid easy and can be done in minutes. ~Augee As Augee said I'm not a big fan on losing a stock position as I shoot mostly fully collapsed. I order this MI#13 Sling Mount - Rear for my MS3. Will it work? |
Thanks for the moral support, Augee. 
The idea came about mainly from my buddies in LE and the military who can't change out their end plates on issued rifles. Those who T&E'd it doing entry work didn't mention anything about not fully collapsing the stock; most of their feedback related to how the rifle hung when they transitioned to pistol. Obviously, it also works well with slings like Magpul's MS2/MS3 where the user needs to add a connection point adapted to Magpul's unique hardware. I get that there are AR owners more than capable of swapping out end plates to suit their own preferences. Right on. We felt this new piece would fill a viable role for those who needed or wanted a mod-free mount. Quoted:
While I always applaud folks who come up with and market new solutions - I'm not to big on losing a stock position. I've also re-staked Colt lowers using the screwdriver tip of Gerber, a standard hammer, and a buddy to sit on the lower while I tighten the castle nut and stake. I'm not terribly worried about or afraid of staking a new carbine end plate. With the proper tools, it's stupid easy and can be done in minutes. ~Augee |
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While I always applaud folks who come up with and market new solutions - I'm not to big on losing a stock position. I've also re-staked Colt lowers using the screwdriver tip of Gerber, a standard hammer, and a buddy to sit on the lower while I tighten the castle nut and stake. I'm not terribly worried about or afraid of staking a new carbine end plate. With the proper tools, it's stupid easy and can be done in minutes. ~Augee As Augee said I'm not a big fan on losing a stock position as I shoot mostly fully collapsed. I order this MI#13 Sling Mount - Rear for my MS3. Will it work? IMHO, the MIs are okay if you absolutely just cannot competently pull your own stock and install a proper end plate. I have had MIs that were slightly too long to allow use of the last stock position when installed, and I've also seen them loosen and slip off, and they should be pretty consistently checked. Generally speaking, I don't like them very much, a piece of 550 cord on the stock is more satisfactory to me, and just "dealing with" not being able to mount my sling on the receiver when left with that as the only option. But again... I don't strictly buy the reluctance to pull the stock on any rifle if you want a receiver mount sling plate unless you wanted to keep a weapon in "pristine factory condition" in which case, why do you care where the sling mounts to? Anyways, not that I would ever suggest such a thing to someone under strict orders to *not* modify their issued weapon, and would never do so myself... but you can use a buddy's ass a vise, replace the sling end plate, and stake it with a Gerber and a hammer before an AFN commercial break ends. Then, replace and re-stake when turning in... ~Augee |
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I don't want to take off the end plate. Of these 2 what would be the best option?
Daniel Defense EZ Carbine QD Swivel Attachment Point (Two Position) http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Daniel-Defense-EZ-Carbine-QD-Swivel-Attachment-p/dd-5002%20s.htm MI#13 Sling Mount - Rear http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Midwest-Industries-MCTAR-13-p/mctar-13.htm |
| The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. 
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/0/30ec4fd9e6265204bd6522ac121be499.jpg What are my options if I want to fully collapse the stock? |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/0/30ec4fd9e6265204bd6522ac121be499.jpg What are my options if I want to fully collapse the stock? If you want anything mounted in the end plate area AND fully collapsible stock, you're going to have to take off the castle nut and either use a end plate with stock mount, castle nut replacement with sling mounts, or a whole new receiver extension with sling mounts (like the PWS). I know you don't want to remove the castle nut, but that's the price of admission for what you ultimately want. |
| Taking the castle nut off is not difficult by any means . It is a rather simple process . I guess I am having a hard time understanding why you don't want to do it . Whatever . And like the previous post stated it is the only way to have a sling mount AND be able to fully collapse your stock . To me its crazy not to remove it . Unless you are LE and cannot do to regulations . |
| I have Colt 6920. What tools would be needed to install say a Magpul ASAP? Would I need to buy a new castle nut? Is it hard to remove the castle nut with factory staking? How to stake the new end plate? This will be going on a SBR so I really dont want to screw it up. |
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I have Colt 6920. What tools would be needed to install say a Magpul ASAP? Would I need to buy a new castle nut? Is it hard to remove the castle nut with factory staking? How to stake the new end plate? This will be going on a SBR so I really dont want to screw it up. Your current castle nut will be fine. Just make sure to use a decent stock wrench, not one of those flimsy little spanner wrenches. You can use an automatic center punch or just any other ol' punch to do the staking the receiver end plate is not particularly strong metal. Worst comes to worst you can do it with a screwdriver and a hammer. It won't be pretty, but it will hold. ~Augee |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/0/30ec4fd9e6265204bd6522ac121be499.jpg What are my options if I want to fully collapse the stock? Do you use the stock fully collapsed? Losing the fully collapsed position doesn't seem like that big of a deal to me. Most folks shoot 1-3 clicks out with a 6 position stock. |
KZ usa has lots of cool sling mounts that are quality, and some are just down right deals
http://www.botachtactical.com/kz.html we just got a couple of these in and really like them. http://www.botachtactical.com/kzloendplsla.html because like you said you don't have to disassemble buffer tube! unfortunately you do lose the closest position of the buffertube |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/0/30ec4fd9e6265204bd6522ac121be499.jpg How much of a gap is there between the mount and the lower receiver? Do you have profile shot? |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/0/30ec4fd9e6265204bd6522ac121be499.jpg You lose the fully collapsed position. Everything else is GTG. How much of a gap is there between the mount and the lower receiver? Do you have profile shot? |
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The other issue here is folks who have an issued rifle that they are prohibited from modifying (i.e., removing the end plate and castle nut). A bolt on device for a sling really isn't considered a modification by most departments. I run a DD ez-carbine sling mount and it works like a champ. Does it allow the stock to fully collapse? No. https://danieldefense.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/3/0/30ec4fd9e6265204bd6522ac121be499.jpg You lose the fully collapsed position. Everything else is GTG. How much of a gap is there between the mount and the lower receiver? Do you have profile shot? How much of a gap is there between the mount and the lower receiver? Do you have profile shot? |
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Irish, here's a video someone put on youtube. He put the Hook Up on his new lower and is ditching the DD shown on his other upper. The DD is larger, but I don't have measurements on it. Nikon777's youtube video
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Just spend $5-$10 on a stock wrench, get a buddy to hold the lower(my gf held mine when I switched mine out last weekend, not much force needed). The factory staking will shear off when you turn it, feel it break and then it spins loose with your fingers. Unscrew all the way back, slide the current plate back(**Making sure to grab the detent spring**). Unscrew your buffer tube, slide off the plate and slide on your new plate, screw buffer tube back in. Tighten the castle nut, and stake as simply as stated above. Just a few little things to watch for, like the spring and the buffer retainer. Its very simple, and unless you cant do it due to reg's, I just dont see why not.
PS- I prefer the Cros-tac or Blackhawk ambi sling plates, just a simple "loop" for ambi sling attachment and built solid enough. Nothing sticking out of the sides to get caught on stuff and it stays tucked under the buffer tube outta the way. No noise from things going rattle either. |
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Well I installed the magpul asap this past weekend. How tight should the castle nut be? Are you using a torque wrench? Personally, I just crank down on the castle nut firmly with a castle nut wrench and stake the plate in place. No, I just tighten down with castle nut wrench. What do I use to stake the plate? |
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Well I installed the magpul asap this past weekend. How tight should the castle nut be? Are you using a torque wrench? Personally, I just crank down on the castle nut firmly with a castle nut wrench and stake the plate in place. No, I just tighten down with castle nut wrench. What do I use to stake the plate? Prick punch and one good whack with a hammer will get the job done. |
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Well I installed the magpul asap this past weekend. How tight should the castle nut be? Are you using a torque wrench? Personally, I just crank down on the castle nut firmly with a castle nut wrench and stake the plate in place. No, I just tighten down with castle nut wrench. What do I use to stake the plate? Prick punch and one good whack with a hammer will get the job done. Can these be bought at home depot or do i need to order online? |
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Well I installed the magpul asap this past weekend. How tight should the castle nut be? Are you using a torque wrench? Personally, I just crank down on the castle nut firmly with a castle nut wrench and stake the plate in place. No, I just tighten down with castle nut wrench. What do I use to stake the plate? Prick punch and one good whack with a hammer will get the job done. Can these be bought at home depot or do i need to order online? Home Depot, Lowes or even retask an old roll pin punch. You could probably improvise a tool or even borrow one without needing to spend a dime. All you need is something that will push the metal of the end plate into the castle nut groove. |
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