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Posted: 1/9/2011 6:32:27 AM EDT
| After many different trys I ended up using both the ASAP plate and the original plate together. The ASAP plate and key wasn't holding my tube secure enough for my liking. Key had allowed too much movement of tube (yes I used the correct size key). My stock end plate fit much better. Now my next issue is trying to stake this thing since it is a bit larger that the nut is is turning into a huge pain in the ass to get it staked properly. Anybody have any picks of a staked ASAP plate? |
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I do but can't post, I can email it to you. It just took a bunch of hits from an auto punch, I started perpendicular to the ext tube, and then angled it toward the nut once I had a good divet going. Afterwards I filed the edges of the divet smooth and touched it up with a paint pen.
I am curious how you used the plate and ASAP together. I didn't have any of the issues you describe with mine. |
Typical end plate has a tab that slides into the groove on the reciever extension and keeps it from rotating.
ASAP has a slot that a piece of keystock fits into, they suplly two pieces of keystock with the ASAP so it can be used with commerical or mil spec extension tubes 
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| after much fucking around I took it all apart again and filed down the larger commercial key to fit very tight (had to use the nut to drive it into the slot) wobble is gone. I think part of the problem was the Vltor buffer tube being a piece of shit. Messed up the nut and threads a bit but nothing a little touch up wont fix. Just for piece of mind while I had it all apart I put on a commercial tube and used the asap plate and it worked fine, larger key fit perfect and was tight. I think the blame is on Vltor making a pos tube. |
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Just finished installing my ASAP yesterday, and it was a BITCH!
Like a poster above, I bent the detent spring and had to use a replacement. That "key" is a major PITA and mine ended up magnetized from one of my tools, which made the process 10 times harder. I probably would not install this one again given the option of using it or another solution. It is heavy duty appearing, though. |
Same here PITA to install had to file the commercial size pin to get it to fit, after trying to tourque it in before it was filed... then bigger PITA to get it out to be able to file it. yummy, worked out like my regular projects 10 mins for anyone else, 2 hrs and an anger managment course for me . but it's in and I'm happy with the fit and function. I would rather have to file a thousandth off then have a sloppy fit. That said I did all this so I could install a single point sling... and it must take some getting used to or practice, but I don't think i like the single point setup.. to loose and too much dangle.
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Quoted: the key has to be removable because of the "ears" on the plate not letting the plate rotate the way normal plates do Forgive me as I'm a bit simple and from the Show Me State, but, uhh, what? What are the "ears" hitting? Here's my procedure that has worked on dozens of guns: Screw castle nut all the way back onto buffer tube. Slide plate onto tube, back to castle nut. Screw buffer tube into receiver until it just retains the buffer retainer from flying out. Plate spins with tube as tube is tightened. Slide plate forward until it contacts receiver. Tighten castle nut. Some slight amount of undesired tube/plate rotation is inevitable due to the "key" being usually undersized and is accounted-for in the tightening process. Install stock onto buffer tube. I've tried some pretty weird plate designs and never had one that required a different procedure. Of course I do tap & thread the rear take down pin detent spring hole for a set screw on every receiver I get. |
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the key has to be removable because of the "ears" on the plate not letting the plate rotate the way normal plates do Forgive me as I'm a bit simple and from the Show Me State, but, uhh, what? What are the "ears" hitting? Here's my procedure that has worked on dozens of guns: Screw castle nut all the way back onto buffer tube. Slide plate onto tube, back to castle nut. Screw buffer tube into receiver until it just retains the buffer retainer from flying out. Plate spins with tube as tube is tightened. Slide plate forward until it contacts receiver. Tighten castle nut. Some slight amount of undesired tube/plate rotation is inevitable due to the "key" being usually undersized and is accounted-for in the tightening process. Install stock onto buffer tube. I've tried some pretty weird plate designs and never had one that required a different procedure. Of course I do tap & thread the rear take down pin detent spring hole for a set screw on every receiver I get. The ears on an ASAP don't allow the RE to be screwed far enough forward to be against the buffer stop pin without having a removable locking key. Trust me (us), there's a reason the locking key is removable in an ASAP. |
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I'm still not understanding the problem. Can someone post a drawing or pic of the interference issue for me please? The little nub in the standard locking plate fits in the groove of the buffer tube. They spin together. If that were present on the magpul version, you would have to spin the ASAP with the tube. The magpul version has ears on the side that wrap around the lower so to speak. Can't spin the plate with it on there, or the plate ears would hit the lower and that would be that. Its not that hard to install. Use some needle nose pliers, some common sense, and properly torque your tube. If you rely on that key to keep your tube from spinning, eventually it will tear into the aluminum tube and rotate anyways. You need to hold it in place with TORQUE, not the steel key. |
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I have an ASAP plate, and it was a F%$#ing bitch to put on. I was holding the tube while cranking on the castle nut, trying to make sure the tube stayed straight. Then after some reflection, I realized what those little black things were for that came with the plate. DOH!!
Either way, I will probably just stick with the single point plates that have the integral key. Much less hassle to install. YMMV |
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Quoted: Quoted: I'm still not understanding the problem. Can someone post a drawing or pic of the interference issue for me please? The little nub in the standard locking plate fits in the groove of the buffer tube. They spin together. If that were present on the magpul version, you would have to spin the ASAP with the tube. The magpul version has ears on the side that wrap around the lower so to speak. Can't spin the plate with it on there, or the plate ears would hit the lower and that would be that. Its not that hard to install. Use some needle nose pliers, some common sense, and properly torque your tube. If you rely on that key to keep your tube from spinning, eventually it will tear into the aluminum tube and rotate anyways. You need to hold it in place with TORQUE, not the steel key. Exactly. |
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I have an ASAP plate, and it was a F%$#ing bitch to put on. I was holding the tube while cranking on the castle nut, trying to make sure the tube stayed straight. Then after some reflection, I realized what those little black things were for that came with the plate. DOH!! Either way, I will probably just stick with the single point plates that have the integral key. Much less hassle to install. YMMV That's why we include installation instructions with the ASAP. 
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given the difficulties with the ASAP install what would be y'alls recmmendations for a rear sling attachment This place- http://mount-n-slot.com/ -offers something called a SLAP of similar design but different construction. I ran across it while looking for something else, so I know nothing about it. |
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given the difficulties with the ASAP install what would be y'alls recmmendations for a rear sling attachment The ASAP really isn't all that difficult to install, just read the instructions. A pair of pliers makes inserting the key A LOT easier. It took me all of 15 minutes to install and I had never removed a buffer tube before. |
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Quoted: Quoted: given the difficulties with the ASAP install what would be y'alls recmmendations for a rear sling attachment This place- http://mount-n-slot.com/ -offers something called a SLAP of similar design but different construction. I ran across it while looking for something else, so I know nothing about it. I initially purchased the SLAP straight from IKickHippies.com (manufacturer) to use as an attachment point. I liked that there were no moving parts to make noise and thought it would work out pretty well... until I tried using it with my Magpul M2 sling. The SLAP is well designed but has very clean cuts. Because of this, the edges are sharp. I used my sling for about 10 minutes and noticed that the SLAP was cutting into the quick release quite a bit. Also, the quick release didn't want to let go from the SLAP easily due to the tight angle. In the end I ordered the ASAP to replace it. As a side note, I can't understand why people were having so much trouble installing the ASAP. I have a commercial tube and it only took me 5 minutes or so to install. Maybe the commercial tube makes a difference, but who knows. The pin didn't want to sit flat in the slot to begin with, causing a slight outward angle. What I did was tuck the pin into the ASAP side and push it down into the cut in the tube as much as possible. As I hand tightened the castle nut, the pin was 'squeezed' between the ASAP plate and the remaining thread peaks in the tube cut. This caused the pin to sit nice and tight between the plate and the tube; no rattling of parts at all. So far, I'm quite happy with the ASAP. EDIT: A pair of hemostats work very well for holding the pin. |
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given the difficulties with the ASAP install what would be y'alls recmmendations for a rear sling attachment Its not like its that difficult to install, the key just takes an extra minute or two. Another option is the Noveske QD end plate if the ASAP is too hard. |
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I would argue that if you can't install an ASAP you probably shouldn't be working on your rifle.  +1.... I just reinstalled (switched tubes and stocks) an ASAP on my AR while watching a movie with the family. I only had a lamp on the side and the TV light to work with. But after you install one and learn the trick to getting the key in place its pie.... uhmmm pie !!! |
For some reason, installing my second Magpul ASAP plate was a little more time-consuming than the first. I still got it installed. I don't have a bench, just a good wrench and a keen sense of leverage. I replace the stock endplate on my assembled pistol build the first time. I installed an ASAP onto my second pistol build the next time around. Sure it's a little tedious, and someone mentioned the magnetizing of the pin which I also experienced, but I certainly didn't have to ground down anything! I didn't stake it. I don't know how to do that but it looks cool. One of these days I'm going to own a house with a garage and a workbench and all kinds of toys... 
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Quoted: Is it necessary to stake it? It looks like it's impossible to take off if you want to change tubes, plates or whatever. With a quality stock wrench it's not difficult at all. If you're the type that's gonna change ext. tubes and endplates every other month, well.... |
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I got something like this:
http://www.opentip.com/Sporting-Goods/Tapco-Enhanced-Ar-Stock-Wrench-p-972771.html minus the rubber grip part. Is that good enough? I'm not the one to change things constantly, but I just don't know if I'll like the ASAP. I think the rattling will drive me crazy. I am still waiting on the MS3 sling to go with it. |
| Glad my local Gun shop installed this for me for free when I bought the ASAP plate from them. Zero hassle lol. Mine doesn't rattle or anything (unless you count the loop for the sling.) I go to a place called "The Arms Room" south of Houston and they will pretty much install anything you buy from them free of charge. That way if they mess it up they can replace it. |
| This was the first time I had ever taken the buffer tube off of any AR style carbine. I installed an ASAP on my CMMG M4LE with Mil-Spec buffer tube and on my DPMS Sportical 7.62 with Commercial bufffer tube in 10 minutes using a Snap-On spanner wrench and needle nose piers. The 'keys' dropped right in on both and secured the buffer tubes. The 'keys' are a close tolerance fit so they have to be installed straight into the slot if you go in at an angle you will have the same problem that the OP had but thought he had to fit the 'key' in place. |
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