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Posted: 4/25/2014 11:31:57 AM EDT
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I could use a little insight please. I recently put an AimPoint PRO on my AR. I zereoed it to 50 yards, because that is about the max shooting distance for deer where I hunt (Thick woods). The AR is my hunting rifle/Bump in the night/SHTF/war pig/3 gun. I want it to fit all of these roles. I am having trouble deciding what range to zero my optic to.
If I understand correctly, if I zero my rifle at 50 yards, it will also be zeroed at 200 yards. Is this correct? Also, I found this archived thread and have started reading through it. It is from 2010 (not that long ago). Is the 50 yard zero still the "conventional wisdom"? http://beta.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=18&t=490034 |
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"If I understand correctly, if I zero my rifle at 50 yards, it will also be zeroed at 200 yards. Is this correct? "
Not really, best bet is to look at a ballistic calculator for the particular round you shoot, different weights and velocity will yield different POI at range. and to be really precise, you should chrono the round out of the barrel you use, different barrels of the same length can produce different velocity. |
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With most 5.56 ammo you'll be zeroed again around 220 yards or so with the 50, give or take some.
Honestly the difference between the 50/200 and 100 isn't worth the effort that's been expended in arguing about it over the years. The 100 is simpler in that you only have one zero with no hold unders, while having a touch shorter max point blank zero. IOW, you'll have to hold over sooner on farther targets. The 50/200 can be a little trickier if you're trying to put the bullet into a tiny target at a midrange distance, but you can hold dead on and make hits on a reasonably sized target slightly further away. I use the 100 on milling reticles and SPR type guns that I dial. GP guns without a ranging/BDC reticle, or a generic one that you run the calls for yourself, get the 50/200. |
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With most 5.56 ammo you'll be zeroed again around 220 yards or so with the 50, give or take some.
Honestly the difference between the 50/200 and 100 isn't worth the effort that's been expended in arguing about it over the years. The 100 is simpler in that you only have one zero with no hold unders, while having a touch shorter max point blank zero. IOW, you'll have to hold over sooner on farther targets. The 50/200 can be a little trickier if you're trying to put the bullet into a tiny target at a midrange distance, but you can hold dead on and make hits on a reasonably sized target slightly further away. I use the 100 on milling reticles and SPR type guns that I dial. GP guns without a ranging/BDC reticle, or a generic one that you run the calls for yourself, get the 50/200. |
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Zero at 50, probably close at 200. Like previous poster suggested, it's going to depend a little on your rifle and load.
Really it's more ideal to zero at 200y, which virtually guarantees you'll be close to zeros at 50y too. It's less precise to go short to long as any error is magnified. |
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Quoted: With most 5.56 ammo you'll be zeroed again around 220 yards or so with the 50, give or take some. Honestly the difference between the 50/200 and 100 isn't worth the effort that's been expended in arguing about it over the years. The 100 is simpler in that you only have one zero with no hold unders, while having a touch shorter max point blank zero. IOW, you'll have to hold over sooner on farther targets. The 50/200 can be a little trickier if you're trying to put the bullet into a tiny target at a midrange distance, but you can hold dead on and make hits on a reasonably sized target slightly further away. I use the 100 on milling reticles and SPR type guns that I dial. GP guns without a ranging/BDC reticle, or a generic one that you run the calls for yourself, get the 50/200. |
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