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Posted: 3/26/2013 8:51:17 AM EDT
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read a lot of links. I know you can set to the "z" mark (mine has a "z") and zero at 25m.
the 25m zero gives a fairly flat trajectory from 25m to 200m (correct?) Slightly high at 100m but dead on at 25 and 200m(?) If I zero at 25m using the "z", should I then set the sight on the "z" to shoot at 200m and under, and then put it on the "3" for 300m (and then "4" for 400m etc)? Nothing I read indicates where to set it after you are sighted in.... |
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Quoted:
read a lot of links. I know you can set to the "z" mark (mine has a "z") and zero at 25m. the 25m zero gives a fairly flat trajectory from 25m to 200m (correct?) Slightly high at 100m but dead on at 25 and 200m(?) If I zero at 25m using the "z", should I then set the sight on the "z" to shoot at 200m and under, and then put it on the "3" for 300m (and then "4" for 400m etc)? Nothing I read indicates where to set it after you are sighted in.... Ok, the Z setting is for zeroing the M16A4 at 25m. If you are zeroing a M4, zero using the 6/3 (small gap) setting at 25m. Zeroing a M4 at 25m gives a 300m zero. Due to the difference in velocity from barrel length, using the Z setting gives you a 300m zero with the M16A4. |
| I was taught that to zero a standard a2 you move the sight down to 8/3 and then back up one click before zeroing at 25 meters.For the milspec carry handle you move it down to 6/3 than back up 2 clicks (not 1) and zero at about 25 meters because of the slight height difference which causes the bullet to cross the sight path a bit later. I'm not sure if a commercial type carry handle will be the same as standard a2 but probably close enough. |
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Quoted:
I was taught that to zero a standard a2 you move the sight down to 8/3 and then back up one click before zeroing at 25 meters.For the milspec carry handle you move it down to 6/3 than back up 2 clicks (not 1) and zero at about 25 meters because of the slight height difference which causes the bullet to cross the sight path a bit later. I'm not sure if a commercial type carry handle will be the same as standard a2 but probably close enough. Your right (and slightly wrong), newer detachable carry handles (for a good while now) will have that Z mark for the times you forget how many clicks to count. The detachable sights are different height but that is not why you move a different number of clicks. The thread is finer on a detachable carry handle halfing the amount of adjustment compared to the fixed carry handle. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Would it be possible to just go to the range and shoot my gun at 50 yards adjust for windage with the rear and elevation with the front. Then confirm my 50 yard zero at 200 and 300 yards without the 6/3 settings? You can do anything you want. I thought so but was wondering cause I seen the OP's question before, and it made me think there is only 1 way to zero a mil-spec carry handle. |
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Ok,
I'm sure the OP is asking how the .mil does it.... AKA How it should be done!... How it's trained to be done.... Anyone can do whatever they want...But that is fine for them...But no one else will be able to use their weapon if needed and be on target if there isn't understanding on how things are labeled and work IRL... Take a look here Linky That is the lesson plan for zeroing rifles and carbines... Hope that helps...And NO i'm not going to quote from the manual... Bret |
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Quoted: Ok, I'm sure the OP is asking how the .mil does it.... AKA How it should be done!... How it's trained to be done.... Anyone can do whatever they want...But that is fine for them...But no one else will be able to use their weapon if needed and be on target if there isn't understanding on how things are labeled and work IRL... Take a look here Linky That is the lesson plan for zeroing rifles and carbines... Hope that helps...And NO i'm not going to quote from the manual... Bret Nice and thanks for the link. |
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I was really thinking more about the 25-200 zero technique. Thinking about it, is that the method where you loosen a screw in the sight and turn it a few clicks the OTHER way (ie. away from the "z").
I think I understand the zeroing technique, really wondering what I set the sight on after it is zeroed if shooting around 100m (which I what I would shoot most of the time on the range). Do I set it at the 6/3 (after using the "z" and zeroing at 25m) and just figure the bullets will be a little high of point of aim at 100m? |
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Quoted:
Ok, I'm sure the OP is asking how the .mil does it.... AKA How it should be done!... How it's trained to be done.... Anyone can do whatever they want...But that is fine for them...But no one else will be able to use their weapon if needed and be on target if there isn't understanding on how things are labeled and work IRL... Take a look here Linky That is the lesson plan for zeroing rifles and carbines... Hope that helps...And NO i'm not going to quote from the manual... Bret Good link, hadn't read that. I think I"m just getting confused with the variations of zero (ie your link describes the 36m zero, rather than 25m) My understanding is that using the 25m zero gives more consistancy at closer ranges. I'd like to set it like that, but still be able to set the sight to 3/4/5/6 for longer ranges.... I"ll have to do some more reading 
EDIT: IKinda back to original question, If I do a Battlefield Zero (put it on the "z" at 36m) do I then leave it on the "z" for shooting 200m and less? Link above indicates for 200yd you go to the 3 and then minus whatever clicks (same as zero setting?) EDIT AGAIN: I re-read THIS for teh Revised Improved Battlesight Zero and it makes sense now 
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Quoted:
read a lot of links. I know you can set to the "z" mark (mine has a "z") and zero at 25m. the 25m zero gives a fairly flat trajectory from 25m to 200m (correct?) Slightly high at 100m but dead on at 25 and 200m(?) If I zero at 25m using the "z", should I then set the sight on the "z" to shoot at 200m and under, and then put it on the "3" for 300m (and then "4" for 400m etc)? Nothing I read indicates where to set it after you are sighted in.... There is no 25M/200M zero with the M16/AR15 - the ballistics of the 5.56 round do not allow it. A 25M zero is also a 300M zero and so will be quite high at all intermediate ranges. I zeroed my removable carry handle at 25 yds - it's the back-up sight for a 16" full-stock carbine with a 4X combat-style scope mounted. I don't expect I'll ever use it since the scope does not depend on a battery or any other illumination for the reticle but has illumination available. Chances are pretty slim I'll ever be in a combat situation and have to remove the scope and put the carry handle back on, but just the same it could be done. The reason for not just making it zero at 50 yds for the 50/200 zero is unless you do it by the Col. Santos 'IBZ' method, the range adjustments on the rear sight will be meaningless. |
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Thanks 1saxman, I was getting confused with the 50/200m zero. I was hoping there was a setting for it, and reading the thread I linked above about the Revised Improved Battlesight it makes sense (had to read it a few times to get my answer). I've raised the sight 8 clicks, and now once sighted in I can go 4 clicks down for 50 (and thus 50/200) or 6 clicks down for 100 (2 and 3 clicks respectively if you don't have a removable handle) and still have the 300/400/500/600 settings as normal
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| The 50 yard zero and other zeroes are fine if you're using a fixed sight. In the early days before the improved sight, a 25 zero was ideal because it made figuring for holdover easy and provided point blank range up to 300 yards. If you aim at the chest at 25, 100 would be high, up near the jaw, 200 would be lower, about halfway between 25 and 100, and 300 will fall between the chest and navel. 400 would hit around the knees and 500 at the feet. Knowing this, you can apply proper holdover at the longer distances, and in a pinch, aim center of mass under 300 and know the bad guy is hit in the vitals. |
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