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Posted: 10/12/2012 8:28:01 AM EDT
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So I just got a Colt 6520 and I plan on using the 50yd zero that Molon is so fond of but after spending the last few hours on google and youtube I can't seem to figure out where I should have my rear elevation drum set to use this zero.
Should it be set to 8/3. -3 clicks or -2 clicks? And does it matter if I use the small or large aperture of the rear sight while I'm doing this? I prefer and use the large aperture for my shooting so I would prefer to do my zeroing with the large aperture if possible. let me know how that will affect my zero. Rifle specs: Colt 6520, 16", A2, 855 ammo. And also what is the difference between the RIBZ and IBZ from what I have been reading I can't tell the difference? |
| Train how you shoot, shoot how you train. You'll be fine. The Ammo you are shooting isn't the most accurate, but I'm sure you'll hit what you are aiming at. As for the settings on the sight, not a clue I took my Colt iron sights off so haven't played with them. Wish I could help with that. |
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Quoted:
So I just got a Colt 6520 and I plan on using the 50yd zero that Molon is so fond of but after spending the last few hours on google and youtube I can't seem to figure out where I should have my rear elevation drum set to use this zero. Should it be set to 8/3. -3 clicks or -2 clicks? And does it matter if I use the small or large aperture of the rear sight while I'm doing this? I prefer and use the large aperture for my shooting so I would prefer to do my zeroing with the large aperture if possible. let me know how that will affect my zero. Rifle specs: Colt 6520, 16", A2, 855 ammo. And also what is the difference between the RIBZ and IBZ from what I have been reading I can't tell the difference? The difference between IBZ and RIBZ: TThe beauty of the RIBZ sighting scheme is that once you have zeroed the rifle with this method, you will have your 100 yard zero setting and the other settings of the elevation drum remain intact (within the limits of the coarse adjustments of the A2 sights). If you want to use the Improved Battlesight Zero, simply set the elevation drum to 8/3, -2 and you're good to go. To use the standard military 300 meter setting, just set the elevation drum to 8/3. You can also start the zeroing process by obtaining the Santose Improved Battlesight Zero at a distance of 50 yards with the rear sight on the 8/3, -2 setting. Obviously, slight variations will be encountered depending on the ammunition used and the actual amount of movement with each click of the various sights. The results will certainly be close enough “for government work.”
Assuming you don't already have one, you might want to invest in a same plane rear aperture (no idea if the 6520 comes with one). |
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Some good info on zeroing. Use what will work best for you. i personally have fixed irons so I can not help you with your question. Check this out.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iCNIRuQuBg
I've used that 200 yd zero to good effect. Never thought that 300 yd zero would be that tight. Thanks for the vid. |
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The thing about the 50y zero is that you don't adjust the rear sight. Zero at 50 with the rear set (almost) anywhere, or a fixed sight, and it hits POA +/- 2'' from 0-225 yards. If you have a A2 type rear sight you can use the IBZ or RIBZ to help dial in a closer POA=POI. The RIBZ gives you a 100Yard zero that is most commonly found at the majority of ranges. There is some setup of the rear sight to use the IBZ or RIBZ, just remember to double the clicks with a removable handle or LMT type "cut down handle" rear sight. But a strict 50Y zero is just that, zero and shoot. |
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Thanks for posting that Haley video I didn't find that one and it was useful. I was watching this one and this guy uses a 300 yard zero as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=D4v0hEbW2OM (Fast forward to around the 4:00 min mark if you want to get right to shooting part) If I go with a 300 yard zero then can I assume that my rear sight will be POA/POI at the corresponding 400, 500, 600, etc etc markings? After watching the Haley vid. What is the advantage to using anything other than the 300 yard zero? With the 300 yard zero you have 5" margin of error out to 300 yards and even at 400 yards you would still have rounds on target. Why would you want to use anything other than this? To me this seems like the best compromise of all of the choices. Especially if I can just add elevation by adjusting my rear sight a couple of clicks in the unlikely event that I'll be taking a shot at more than 400 yards. |
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After watching the Haley vid. What is the advantage to using anything other than the 300 yard zero? With the 300 yard zero you have 5" margin of error out to 300 yards and even at 400 yards you would still have rounds on target. Why would you want to use anything other than this? To me this seems like the best compromise of all of the choices. Especially if I can just add elevation by adjusting my rear sight a couple of clicks in the unlikely event that I'll be taking a shot at more than 400 yards. if you're just shooting at paper, its fine. but how often do you engage the enemy at 300yds? even hunting at 300yds you'd probably be using a bolt action w/ a scope. can you even get a good enough look at them through the irons to get an accurate shot off, especially if they're shooting at you? |
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Although the Haley video gives the impression that the 300 zero is the best (and it may very well be)
one has to consider that a lot of folks do not have access to a 300 yard/meter range. Thus, the 50yd/225 meter zero may be more suitable simply because it can be done at a great variety of ranges. Which ever method you choose, just make sure you zero the weapon.. Just food for thought. |
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One of the things that video does a good job of showing is that ANY of those zeros will do well for most people's applications.
Refine your zero using what's available as time goes on, check it periodically, and know your holds, not just far away, but close up where you're more likely to need them at speed. I think it was Jason Falla who said with a 200 yard zero that you do have to hold over at 300...but you have 300 meters between you and the bad guy to think about it. And then pulling back in to domestic shooting, this would be a rare requirement, especially for city slickers and suburb bunnies. He also wrote this article advocating specifically for two hundred. I like 50, like another poster said, for range availability. I go 200 when I can. I'll stick with 2 inch low at 25 yards if nothing else is available. Refine as I get more range available. http://jasonfalla.blogspot.com/2010/01/short-range-ballistics-and-200-meter.html |
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