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6/3/2012 12:34:59 PM EDT
I have a Trijicon TA01NSN. It's a little less than 6" long total. When mounted on my carbine, so that it's in the right spot to work with its short eye relief, the front of the sight (objective lens) is behind the gas venting holes in the side of  the bolt carrier. Since I run my AR pretty wet, I'm getting little droplets of oil/carbon on the objective lens. I assume it must be spraying out of the bolt carrier sideways, but a few droplets are drifting up and getting on the lens. Has anyone else had this problem?

I tried shooting 10 or 15 rounds (after lubricating the rifle) with the BUIS, and then switching to the optic. That helped a lot, but didn't solve it completely. And, of course, if there's any of this stuff at all on the lens I have to wash it all off, as I wouldn't want to leave any of it on the lens coating.

I also tried making a tube to put on the front of the sight. Said tube extends well forward of the ejection port. This works. Only downside is that the one I made is constructed of a leftover paper towel tube and tape. If this is to be a permanent solution I'll have to build something a little more permanent and better looking.

Has anyone else run into this? Do you just accept having to wash the sight after each use? Do a lot of people just not notice it? Maybe no lube on certain parts of the bolt - no, that can't be the answer.

By the way, when I say "wash the sight", I mean just that. That's what Trijicon instructions say to do. Nice to know it's that water resistant!
6/3/2012 12:44:26 PM EDT
[#1]
maybe this?
6/3/2012 12:51:00 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
maybe this?


I looked at that. It looks like it's made out of the same kind of rubber the factory lenscaps are made out of, in which case it's probably as useless as they are. The mounting system doesn't look that good either, and I don't think it would add enough length. On the plus side it allows the use of a flip up lenscap, which would be nice. I may risk the 45 bucks and try it, but I'm not optimistic that it will solve the problem. Thanks for the idea, though!

6/3/2012 12:52:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Quoted:
maybe this?


I looked at that. It looks like it's made out of the same kind of rubber the factory lenscaps are made out of, in which case it's probably as useless as they are. The mounting system doesn't look that good either, and I don't think it would add enough length. On the plus side it allows the use of a flip up lenscap, which would be nice. I may risk the 45 bucks and try it, but I'm not optimistic that it will solve the problem. Thanks for the idea, though!



they are hard plastic
6/3/2012 12:54:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
maybe this?


I looked at that. It looks like it's made out of the same kind of rubber the factory lenscaps are made out of, in which case it's probably as useless as they are. The mounting system doesn't look that good either, and I don't think it would add enough length. On the plus side it allows the use of a flip up lenscap, which would be nice. I may risk the 45 bucks and try it, but I'm not optimistic that it will solve the problem. Thanks for the idea, though!



they are hard plastic


In that case I'll probably buy one. If nothing else, it'll give me something to mount a longer tube to. Thanks!

6/3/2012 12:59:20 PM EDT
[#5]
friend of mine has the RCO which comes with the killflash and I don't recall him having splatter problems.....and once you get it on the scope it isn't going anywhere.
6/3/2012 2:51:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
maybe this?


I looked at that. It looks like it's made out of the same kind of rubber the factory lenscaps are made out of, in which case it's probably as useless as they are. The mounting system doesn't look that good either, and I don't think it would add enough length. On the plus side it allows the use of a flip up lenscap, which would be nice. I may risk the 45 bucks and try it, but I'm not optimistic that it will solve the problem. Thanks for the idea, though!



they are hard plastic


+1

They're hard plastic, and the mounting system is deceptively effective.  

That being said, some people have complained about light transmission (your sight picture gets a little darker due to the extra elements in front of the lens).

You could live with it, or you could gut the killflash components and just keep the tube housing, and use the standard flip-caps ($13 for the set from Trijicon).  Using the front flip cap requires the use of the TA-91 ARD as well.  

~Augee
6/3/2012 4:13:44 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks Augee.

I think I'll take the shotgun approach. I'll order the attachment and try that out. I'll get the flip cap while I'm at it. I think I'll stop by the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can get a short length of black tubing made of PVC or some kind of plastic, that is the right OD or close enough to it that I could turn it down on the lathe. One way or another I'll solve it.

I am curious though: has no one else ever noticed this? Or is my configuration unique in some way and it hasn't happened to anyone else?
6/3/2012 4:32:38 PM EDT
[#8]
My ACOG has two slots open in front of it on my upper.  I keep my BCG oiled, but not dripping.  I haven't noticed any oil on the lens, but I haven't put hundreds of rounds downrange either...
6/4/2012 5:16:01 AM EDT
[#9]
I have an ARD and LFU on most of my 4x32 ACOGs, I don't like lens covers.  An ARD will reduce the light transmission as Augee said, but not so bad as with an ARD and an LFU
6/4/2012 8:21:09 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I have an ARD and LFU on most of my 4x32 ACOGs, I don't like lens covers.  An ARD will reduce the light transmission as Augee said, but not so bad as with an ARD and an LFU


The ARD sounds good, not so sure about the LFU. I might stack on a QTC or a WXJ.
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