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Posted: 11/13/2011 4:31:39 AM EDT
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I'm getting ready to mount a Leupold Mark 4 MRT 1.5-5 in a Larue mount
Looking for advice on tools and the correct method Specifically how to mount the scope level in the mount and what torque on the mount screws Any other advice is welcome |
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I really like using feeler gauges for making sure the scope is straight in the mount. It's almost impossible to install the scope crooked using them.
I'm not sure of the actual torque number, but with the LaRue mount, you want to tighten the bottom screw first, then the top screws. And the top halves of the rings won't touch when you're done. If they do, you might have just crushed your scope. Or you have wrong sized rings. Also, just a dot of blue loctite on the threads upon final torque down. |
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Quoted:
I really like using feeler gauges for making sure the scope is straight in the mount. It's almost impossible to install the scope crooked using them. I'm not sure of the actual torque number, but with the LaRue mount, you want to tighten the bottom screw first, then the top screws. And the top halves of the rings won't touch when you're done. If they do, you might have just crushed your scope. Or you have wrong sized rings. Also, just a dot of blue loctite on the threads upon final torque down. This ^^^ 30 Inch pounds is about all you need on the ring screws |
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Best money I ever spent on a tool was my torque screwdriver. http://www.opticsplanet.net/wheeler-fat-wrench-with-10-bit-set-553556.html I was surprised at how many screws that i thought were tight enough, weren't. I tend to err on the side of less, having stripped a 10/22 receiver once. Sold to a buddy with a fancy for iron sights. I use a low-tech plumb-bob to get the reticle level. The feeler gauges are great for getting the ring tops even, as well. Mark H. |
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I prefer using the plumb bob method just in case the scope body isn't perfectly aligned with the crosshairs. With the plumb bob, the reticle is absolutely going to be level with the horizon of the earth.
I find as many flat spots on the receiver as I can and lay those small bubble levels on them to get the gun level. Then while constantly keeping an eye on the reticle alignment against the plumb bob and the bubble levels on the gun, I will go around tightening the ring screws progressively, keeping the ring gaps even, and then finishing off with a torque driver set to the fastener specifications. |
| I've used the Wheeler pro kit, it comes with a fat torque srewdriver, bits, levels, ring lapping and centering tools, locktite, lapping compound. After lapping the inside of centered rings, it is VERY surprizing to see just how uneven the clamping surface of the rings really are. I am not a super expert, but even I can see how much of a difference getting a 90% even contact area on the scope tube would make. I think it is money well spent. The fat wrench is really handy to keep you from crunching your brand new glass. Most of the ring manufacturers will recommend what they want the ring screws torqued to. I read an article on scope mounting and it made the point that you can distort the scope by over tightening the rings, so be sure you stick with the manufacturers recommendations. |
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