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9/25/2008 7:45:41 PM EDT
I was told by someone that used aimpoints in the military that they are difficult to zero in.  Other than his statement I have never read or heard that before.  I did a search here and came up with nothing.  Does anyone have any first hand knowlege of this?  
9/25/2008 7:49:14 PM EDT
[#1]
No, not at all.

I usually zero my irons at 50 yards then move the Aimpoint dot to the top of the front sight while cowitnessing. That usually puts me within an inch at 50 yards with the dot only. I make minor adjustments from there.
9/25/2008 7:56:00 PM EDT
[#2]
No issues.

Just zero the BUIS and front sight.

Flip down the BUIS and zero the CCO.  If you're way off on the CCO, you can use the BUIS to get you close.
9/25/2008 8:27:22 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
No issues.

Just zero the BUIS and front sight.

Flip down the BUIS and zero the CCO.  If you're way off on the CCO, you can use the BUIS to get you close.


I agree also and if nothing else plaster a big enough target with something like those Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-See stick on targets. All I use for 50 or 100 yard targets are the 8 inch diameter ones. Anyway, if you can see the shot, try it a few more times to verify consistently. Then just adjust your Aimpoint accordingly. I had no problem at all zeroing my CompM3 2 MOA and my Comp M4s when I got them.

If all else fails call Aimpoint and let them know you possibly have a bad sight.
9/25/2008 10:47:22 PM EDT
[#4]
Well this is helpful information.  The same guy also stated that Aimpoints have paralax after 50 meters or so...Is that a true statement?  Does this affect accuracy at longer distances?  
9/26/2008 3:17:53 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
No, not at all.

I usually zero my irons at 50 yards then move the Aimpoint dot to the top of the front sight while cowitnessing. That usually puts me within an inch at 50 yards with the dot only. I make minor adjustments from there.


What I do.
9/26/2008 3:19:31 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
Well this is helpful information.  The same guy also stated that Aimpoints have paralax after 50 meters or so...Is that a true statement?  Does this affect accuracy at longer distances?  


9/26/2008 3:30:14 AM EDT
[#7]
No optic is parallax free at other than one range.  The Aimpoint is reduced parallax design only.  However you should not notice parallax at 50 yards even though it can exist it is very small.  Aimpoints are probably the easiest of the optics to sight in IMO.

Military had isues with old beat up and abused Aimpoints being rotated in teh single ring mounts... thus they were hard to zero and the battteries were old and died in the desert heat and 1/3N cells are hard to find in the military system and AA are easy to get... thus you have the M4 which cant rotate and uses easy to aquire AA batts.  This should not be an issue for you.
9/26/2008 4:53:38 AM EDT
[#8]
yeah mine when i first got into shooting was pretty easy to sight in.. But I went to a funshow and looked down a TA31F, I had always wanted a ACOG but I had never looked into one but once I did that was it, I was checking for prices online that night and orderd a TA31F and that thing was really easy to sight in, I guess they a Pri-sighted from the factory.. I believe the Parallax on the Aimpoint is 50 yards.. but even after that they are very good.. I will be getting a Mirco down the line.
9/26/2008 5:14:06 AM EDT
[#9]
You have to account for both elevation AND windage.  This can prove challenging for some.  I've witnessed such an event twice.  It wasn't pretty.
9/26/2008 5:55:37 AM EDT
[#10]
Devl

 No optic is parallax free at other than one range. The Aimpoint is reduced parallax design only. However you should not notice parallax at 50 yards even though it can exist it is very small. Aimpoints are probably the easiest of the optics to sight in IMO.

Military had isues with old beat up and abused Aimpoints being rotated in teh single ring mounts... thus they were hard to zero and the battteries were old and died in the desert heat and 1/3N cells are hard to find in the military system and AA are easy to get... thus you have the M4 which cant rotate and uses easy to aquire AA batts. This should not be an issue for you.
 


Bingo, there you go.

also keep in mind, alot of older Aimpoints are well beyond there service life, but yet due to poor rotation in the .Mil supply system, they still continue to Soldier on and in many instances, they should be DX'd
9/26/2008 6:56:57 AM EDT
[#11]

I didn't see this mentioned but if you don't have the Aimpoint mounted "plumb" in the rings then you will have a heck of a time zeroing.  Unlike a crosshair that you can tell rather easily if it is canted or not, the red dot has no way to reference whether your optic is slightly canted.  If it is canted, when you adjust elevation for example your dot will also be moving left or right a bit depending on how badly it is canted...same applies for adjusting windage.

At ranges less than 50 yards it would have to be off pretty bad to give you major troubles but it is one more thing to consider when mounting and zeroing.
9/26/2008 10:36:39 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
I didn't see this mentioned but if you don't have the Aimpoint mounted "plumb" in the rings then you will have a heck of a time zeroing.  Unlike a crosshair that you can tell rather easily if it is canted or not, the red dot has no way to reference whether your optic is slightly canted.  If it is canted, when you adjust elevation for example your dot will also be moving left or right a bit depending on how badly it is canted...same applies for adjusting windage.

At ranges less than 50 yards it would have to be off pretty bad to give you major troubles but it is one more thing to consider when mounting and zeroing.



Good point about mounting the optic level.  I have it in a LaRue mount.  I noticed now that I have mounted it, and I thought it was level, that it is canted a little bit.  I am estimating this by removing the top adjustment cap and centering the split between the two halves of the ring with the center of the adjustment screw saft (not the best terms but you know what I mean).  I might try to eye-ball it or I may wait and borrow a Wheeler Level-level-level.  What I really need is the right tools to do the  best job but since I just spent the money on the aimpoint and LaRue mount that just isn't in the cards.  
9/26/2008 1:38:12 PM EDT
[#13]
Eye balling should be fine and once its set to be true at 50 yards you should never have to touch it again.
9/26/2008 2:08:01 PM EDT
[#14]
When I first mounted my M2 I zeroed it and it stayed zeroed for many years (literally).

I would take that optic off all the time when cleaning and every year I took a 3 day carbine class and would confirm the zero before the class (still on) and the instructor would have us all confirm zero's at the beginning of the course and each morning and end of the day.

Once it's zeroed, with a good repeatable mount like LaRue, it stays zeroed.
Eyeballing  the optic in the mount will get you close enough for "Government" work.


Oh, and that same guy in the "military" who told you they were had to zero is probably the same guy who spent half a day on the Zero range trying to get his Irons zeroed to....
9/26/2008 2:32:13 PM EDT
[#15]

Oh, and that same guy in the "military" who told you they were had to zero is probably the same guy who spent half a day on the Zero range trying to get his Irons zeroed to....
 

I don't know about that,  he is a good enough guy I just think he may have some miss information about Aimpoints.  He suggested zeroing the BUIS first then moving the aimpoint to co-witness the BUIS, not a bad Idea.  I don't dought they may have had problems with zeroing the aimpoints but it might have been because of bad mounts, abused optics, etc...  He has an Eotech and thinks it is the best thing in the world.  I think it might be a case of  mine is better than your's mentality.  I just wanted you guys to confirm that for me and you did, Thanks!
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