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6/22/2004 12:38:38 PM EDT
well hell.  I was tightning the EOTech with a quarter right.  It's getting pretty tight.  I give one last turn, and all of a sudden, it pops.  My EOTech gets loose, and the screw is lose.  I pull the screw out, and notice, a small part is missing.  I looked under my EOTech and see part of the screw, still inside.  How the hell do i get it out?
6/22/2004 12:59:07 PM EDT
[#1]
nm, thx though.  I manage to take it apart.  Enough is sticking out for me to use needle nose pliers.  Oh no, need more help.

scroll down
6/22/2004 1:25:10 PM EDT
[#2]
Is the Eotech ok, or did you just break the screw ? Always wondered what would happen if you over torqued that screw.
6/22/2004 2:53:43 PM EDT
[#3]
I had the same thing happen. I used needle nose pliers to get the screw out of the Eotech.

I had a chance to speak with an Eotech factory rep today at the Police Expo in Atlantic City, NJ. He recommended that the original hex head screw be used. Avoid the Eotech large head screw and the YHM screw.

Good luck,

Mike
6/22/2004 3:10:07 PM EDT
[#4]
The EOTech is fine, it was just the YHM screw that broke.  Now i have another problem.

Attention EOTECH owners.

You know that lose part, i think they call it the Weaver Lock Hardware?  The end where your screw goes.  Well, how is it seated?  I cant tell, if mine is upside down, or not.

So does that part that sticks out, is it against EOTech, or, is it, at the lowest part of the EOTech?
6/22/2004 3:33:31 PM EDT
[#5]
Here is a pic of the bottom of my Eotech



Here is what the screw looked like. YHM replaced the screw without question.



Hope this helps you out.

Mike
6/22/2004 3:35:57 PM EDT
[#6]
thank you very much.  I wasnt sure if i had it on properly.
Not going to bother replacing the YHM screw, since they all probably do that if you over torque
6/22/2004 4:50:22 PM EDT
[#7]
Damn!! Sorry to hear 'bout that.

Personally, I don't think it's necessarily a matter of over torqueing the screw, but rather just cheap metal used for the screw. I had stripped the pocket out of a hex-head screw that came with a YHM side sling adaptor. The wrench was fully seated in the screw (not half-assed), it just tore through the walls like some flimsy junk. Needless to say, very disappointed.
6/23/2004 4:25:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Thanks for the info, good thread.
6/23/2004 8:20:23 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
...but rather just cheap metal used for the screw. ....



I doubt very much if it was 'cheap metal'.  I've been using one for quite a while and never got it to over torque.  You much have really been cranking on it (and the YHM does allow you to get more force on it).  

If you lack the fine motor control to do it right/consistantly then I'd suggest you pony up for a LaRue EOTech mount - costs more but I doubt you'll overtorque the levers.
6/23/2004 9:15:14 PM EDT
[#10]
Gads
Take a little bit of LocTite, you can get it at just about any hardware store and most autoplaces.  Put a little dab on the threads and finger tighten, then give the screw head a few light taps with something softer then the metal you are tapping.  Turn a little more with a tool, for the weaver mounts a quarter will work just fine and STOP.  Make sure you get the red loctite and not the other two which have to be heated to get loose.  Everything mounted to guns should be loctited.  This will hold better then over torque and will keep things from coming loose.  It is a step that isn't preached and needs to be, all gunsmiths worth their salt do it to scope mounts.  An easy step for all people mounting things with threads on their AR and such, and costs about $4.00.  Cheap reliable insurance.  Okay, who has the ladder to get my butt off this soap box
6/23/2004 10:17:49 PM EDT
[#11]
Hey, maybe it was just a defective part and not cheap metal nor lack of skill on anyone's part.  I just want to add that in before this becomes a flame war.
6/23/2004 11:13:48 PM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:
I doubt very much if it was 'cheap metal'.  I've been using one for quite a while and never got it to over torque.  You much have really been cranking on it (and the YHM does allow you to get more force on it).  

If you lack the fine motor control to do it right/consistantly then I'd suggest you pony up for a LaRue EOTech mount - costs more but I doubt you'll overtorque the levers.



You know, I think I know a cheap screw when I see one, and that one had cheap all over it.

On a similar note, I was somewhat surprised that that little flim-flam allen wrench that came with it didn't snap before jacking-up the screw.
6/24/2004 2:19:26 AM EDT
[#13]

Make sure you get the red loctite and not the other two which have to be heated to get loose


I'd check that info. It is my understanding that the Red Loctite needs heat. Good info at www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=154 and www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7934&title=THREAD-LOCKER%7e+%26+ADHESIVES

Mike

6/24/2004 5:31:24 AM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
On a similar note, I was somewhat surprised that that little flim-flam allen wrench that came with it didn't snap before jacking-up the screw.


Allen wrench??  The YHM screw is a large drum with a slot for a screwdriver (or coin).

There is no allen wrench needed (or even usable).  WTF?
6/24/2004 6:20:33 AM EDT
[#15]
Forest, he was talking about HIS experience with a different YHM part, not the oversized model.  

Guys, I'd suggest contacting YHM and they will take care of it.  If the metal is shit, they need to know it.  Working as a QC engineer in another life I know from first hand experience that bad lots of metal parts (screws, spacers, etc...) can get into the system.  Let them check it out before you say it is flimsy junk 2Manchu.  You have to try to remember that they are dealing with literally THOUSANDS of these screws and 2Manchu I know yours was the most important order, but sometimes bad parts get in the mix.  Let them make it right.  I have a side sling adapter and I was able to put some torque on it, enough that the allen wrench left a dent in my thumb for a while.

And for the longest time I would regularly twist off nut and bolts on machinery because I didn't know my own strength.

A96HondaAccordEX I'm glad you were able to get that part out.  
6/24/2004 7:43:12 AM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
Forest, he was talking about HIS experience with a different YHM part, not the oversized model.  
 



The pic above shows the oversized model.  I was wondering if he was trying to use the wrong item with the EOTech.

Or are they now making hex head versions?
6/24/2004 7:52:01 AM EDT
[#17]
First off....  Would you prefer that the $5 screw break from over-torquing, or do you want YHM use a stronger material for the screws so you strip out or damage the $350 EOTech mounting plate?

Secondly...


I was tightning the EOTech with a quarter right. It's getting pretty tight. I give one last turn, and all of a sudden, it pops.

One LAST turn?  It's supposed to be "hand tight, then ONE QUARTER TURN with a coin", not "hand tight, then turn with a quarter"


I usually use a nickel (or a dime on the smaller ones) because I can't apply as much torque.  I generally tend to be an over-torquer myself.



6/24/2004 9:55:03 AM EDT
[#18]
Hmmm... Looking at the instructions that came w/my new 512.A65s it says to hand-tighten until resistance is felt then tighten another 3/4 turn w/coin. I've had one 512 on & off over a dozen times now, I always use a quarter on the oversized knurled thumbscrew and I haven't damaged anything yet...
Tomac
6/24/2004 10:51:33 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
... It's supposed to be "hand tight, then ONE QUARTER TURN with a coin", not "hand tight, then turn with a quarter"
.



That is why my instructions say.  But the YHM screw I never needed the coin - the large knob gave me enough grab to do it by fingers alone.
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