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Posted: 6/18/2003 4:07:32 AM EDT
Hi guys, was needing some help here. Do I sight in at 50 yds with the small aperture? Now after I do this, will I be able to use the larger aperture for most of my shooting and the small for far distances. Please let me know how you shoot? What aperture for what ranges? I do have a eotech 511, but I really want to learn to shoot properly with the open sights. Thanks for your time.

Javier
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:11:12 AM EDT
I use the chuck santose range for BZ but use my larger aperature, the idea being that if i have to go to my backup then things have probably gotten close and fast.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:40:11 AM EDT
Since the ARMS 40 doesn't have an elevation wheel, my suggestion is to use the improved battlesight zero found here [url]http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/improvedbattlesightzero.msnw[/url] This will give you a reasonable general purpose zero that works almost out to 350m. The only problem is that you need an elevation adjustment wheel to do it per instructions. To compensate, you want to shoot 2 MOA high at the 50yds, or 1". Keep in mind that switching to the large aperture will drop your point of aim about 4.25MOA unless you install an Ashley same plane aperture, which isn't a bad idea in this case.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:48:30 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Southern_Raider: The only problem is that you need an elevation adjustment wheel to do it per instructions. To compensate, you want to shoot 2 MOA high at the 50yds, or 1".
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but this is a "Battle sight" zero. being high at 50yds or any other range will not make a big difference if you are shooting center of mass.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:51:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/18/2003 4:51:43 AM EDT by mr_wilson]
I use the large aperature and the Santose Method referenced above, as to the fact of the #40 having no elevation adjustment, just adjust your front sight to raise or lower your POI. (no special tool necessary, just a M193 round tip) Should your BUIS use become necessary, with majority of actual firearm use occuring between dusk and dawn or "dark/nightime" conditions, I want the large aperature showning when I flip it up, or already in position and need it. Mike
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 5:28:35 AM EDT
"The only problem is that you need an elevation adjustment wheel to do it per instructions. To compensate, you want to shoot 2 MOA high at the 50yds, or 1". Not true. Elevation is set by adjusting front sight post. You should have no problems setting up SBZ.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 11:16:03 AM EDT
Thanks for the replies guys. I read the zeroing techniques and still alittle puzzled. Since like what Raider said there is no elevation wheel to adjust when switching from one aperture to the other. I was just wondering for the general purpose plinking at 25 to 75 yds would I be able to be more accurate with small aperture. I mean shooting at aluminum cans and plastic bottles. Would I be able to use the large. I basically I just wanna hit what I aim at. Damm, I probably confusing the hell out of everyone. thanks again
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 11:37:12 AM EDT
Use the aperture you intend on shooting with most of the time and zero that at 50 yards and be done with it.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 1:50:40 PM EDT
Not true. Elevation is set by adjusting front sight post. You should have no problems setting up SBZ.
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The Santose IBZ is zeroed at 50 yards with the elevation wheel set at 8/3 [b]-2 clicks[/b]. When zeroing, yes, you use the front sight to adjust elevation. The elevation wheel is returned to 8/3 for normal shooting, which raises the impact 2 MOA. I suppose as an alternate that you can just sight in at 50 yards then adjust the front sight afterwards to raise the impact 2 MOA to achieve the same result. Or, if all else fails, just sight in at 50yds and leave it. It's not the Santose IBZ, but the soda cans at 25 to 75 yards won't know.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:33:26 PM EDT
Zero at 50 yards with the large apeture. Doing so with the small apeture will leave you extremely high at 100 yards. Since the small apeture does not have the same center, it is best for past 200 yards - which hopefully won't be of great importance for a BUIS.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 7:22:15 PM EDT
Always zero with the small aperature. If you were supposed to zero with the large the military would be doing it that way. they are not! refer to the Army training manual for help [url]http://www.ar15.com/content/books/TM9-1005-319-10.pdf[/url]starting on page 48
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:05:13 PM EDT
i can see why this question gets asked every week.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 2:51:24 AM EDT
I admit it, I can't zero my ARMS #40 for crap! First off the range I go to only allows 100yrds and its so frustrating because .223 holes are almost impossible to see at 100yrds. I'm not good when it comes to zero'ing sights. I got my Aimpoint zeroed in good but that darn #40....
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 3:36:46 AM EDT
Thanks for all the info guys. Guess I'll go to the range and do some experimenting with the 2 apertures. The eotech is great. Now if I can just now conquer this buis. At least I'll be having a blast trying. Thanks again for all the great info.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 5:11:23 AM EDT
The Santose IBZ is zeroed at 50 yards with the elevation wheel set at 8/3 -2 clicks.
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The only reason the Santose zero uses -2 clicks is to preserve the usefulness of the elevation wheel. The ARMS #40 has no elevation wheel.
When zeroing, yes, you use the front sight to adjust elevation. The elevation wheel is returned to 8/3 for normal shooting, which raises the impact 2 MOA.
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No, with the normal A2 sight aperture, you use the small aperture at -2 clicks or the large aperture at normal 8/3, Since the large aperture isn't in the same plane as the small aperture you get the same trajectory even though you have changed the impact point by two clicks on the elevation wheel. The zero you are suggesting isn't a horrible one and is even flatter than the Santose zero to 200m (20"/M193); but it isn't the Santoze zero.
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 5:41:17 AM EDT
So assuming I have my #40 set to large apreture and poi at 50 yards (I don't have meters marked), It is within a few inches from 15 yards to 200 yards. If I move nothing, but flip to the small apreture, what distance is that zeroed at? 250? 300?
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 7:36:24 AM EDT
Originally Posted By GLOCKshooter: If I move nothing, but flip to the small apreture, what distance is that zeroed at? 250? 300?
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[b]IF[/b] it has the proper relationship it the small hole should be zeroed at 300M. However I really wouldn't worry about it - if you actually needed to use the BUIS in an emergency you'll use whatever aperture happens to be up. So pick the one you like to use and zero for that aperture. Personally I replaced the aperture with one from an A1 sight. The unmarked aperture is zeroed to 50 and that's the one I normally use. My 'L' aperture is only used when I want to shoot the reduced sized targets at 25y (its off a fraction of an inch - but close enough for practice).
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 1:47:33 PM EDT
No, with the normal A2 sight aperture, you use the small aperture at -2 clicks or the large aperture at normal 8/3, Since the large aperture isn't in the same plane as the small aperture you get the same trajectory even though you have changed the impact point by two clicks on the elevation wheel.
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Oops, reading comprehension problem on my part. Well then wait a second. If the small aperture zeros at 50 yards with the sight at 8/3 -2 clicks, moving it to 8/3 causes the small aperture impact to be 1" high at 50 yards. When I plug this into a trajectory calculator, this is essentially identical to the Marine zero. (Small aperture, set to 8/3 fire at 36 yards) The Santose zero crosses LOS at 34.8yds (small aperture, set to 8/3) Just an interesting observation.
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