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Posted: 7/24/2006 4:15:42 PM EDT
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I have an RRA Entry Tactical arriving in about 6-8 weeks. Any suggestions on what ammunition to break it in with? Also, will this gun shoot both .223 and 5.56? I'm somewhat scared to use wolf in it...any suggestions? |
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windomearle, I recently purchased a RRA ET and believe me when I say you'll be very happy the first time you open the blue case. As for Wolf, don't worry. I've shot a fair amount of the grey, polymer coated stuff and it functions fine. I even did an experiment after hearing all the Wolf horror stories here to find out if the coating comes off in the chamber. I fired 40 rounds of Wolf polymer so fast there was significant smoke coming out of the handguard. I figure with temps like that, if the coating was going to melt then I'd done it. I let the weapon cool, action open, long enough that I could tightly grasp the barrel without any discomfort. Then I ran some standard brass cased ammo through the "fouled" chamber. No malfunctions of any kind. The brass cartridges had some small splotches of grey material, obviously some of the residual Wolf coating, but showed no signs of distress otherwise. Now as for accuracy and sighting-in, I wouldn't use Wolf. From my limited experience in my RRA carbine, it just isn't very accurate. Get you new AR settled-in with some quality ammo-I personally prefer Winchester-and then use the Wolf for cheap blasting of old tin cans and mud clods. 
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I got my RRA Car Elite a few weeks ago and it operates no problem with Wolf. For cheap blasting ammo, you can't beat it. Get some better quality stuff to check accuracy though. Wolf is pretty dirty ammo. Yes, you will be VERY pleased when you get it. Fit and finish is second to none I've seen. A very nice rifle for the $$. |
| FWIW - I built a new gun recently - Stag lower, DPMS parts kit, RRA middy upper, YHM FF rail, flip front - first rounds of ammo through the gun were Wolf and I had no failures. I switched to some brass-cased ammo for sighting in the EOTech, but that's about it. |
Steel cases is harder than brass, and closer in hardness to the steel parts in your rifle. so the theory goes that steel cases will cause more wear on your steel parts. Also, the old lacquer coating had a reputation (deserved or not I cannot say) for melting and getting left behind in your rifle. The new Polymer coating doesnt do that, and (at least theoretically in my mind) provides some cushing between the steel case and your steel rifle parts. Having said that, I've shot SOME just fine, but generally can find brass-cased ammo for not that much more money. If prices change dramatically, I wouldnt mind buying more Wolf. |
The steel cases are quite a bit softer than the steel in the rifle. If anyone has definitive proof of the case steel of russkie ammo causing accelerated wear, I haven't seen it.
Myth. The old "lacquer" will not melt - take a blowtorch to a spent case and you'll see. There's fairly reliable data on shooting brass-case ammo after steel case is a problem; this is due to the fact that the steel case doesn't expand as much as a brass case, and lets gas blow-by. When a brass case is subsequently fired, it will sometimes fail to extract. Other times, the case comes out covered in the deposited gas crud left in the chamber. |
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The break in procedure is dependent on whether the barrel is chrome lined or not. If it is chrome lined then just shoot it. If it is not chrome lined then shoot a round then pull a patch w/ CLP on it through followed by a bore brush w/ CLP and then a dry patch. Do this for twenty rounds and you should be good to go. Wolf is just dirty ammo and not as accurate as good ammo. I have an RRA Entry Tactical and at 25 yards I can keep ll the holes touching with Federal 55 grain and with Wolf the groups open up to about and inch. |
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