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Posted: 10/16/2002 8:12:53 AM EDT
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Hmmm...I don't know if I'd want either of these on my ammo. The thinner *might* be corrosive, and I believe both are highly flammable. I've never given this much thought, since sealed primers aren't REALLY necessary given proper storage. However, what about a light coat of laquer? We KNOW that works. |
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Maybe look at a hobby store? I bet you could find some in the model paint area. But again, I don't know that it would work. I don't even know what regular primer sealant is made of, but I'll see if I can find out. So, take my advice on this with a grain of salt... |
I forget who I ordered it from, but there's a clear blue laquer marketed for reloaders who want to seal their primers. As I recall it wasn't cheap, but then, nail polih probably isn't that cheap either. I'll look it up when I get home. Clear laquer would probably leave less residue than a pigmented paint. From looking at pull down LC cases I bought from GI Brass, I'd say that asphalt or a similiar black tarry substance is use to seal the bullet/neck interface. Is there a bullet lube that would set up as a waterproof barrier without contaminating the powder charge. Found it! George and Roy's Custom Primer Sealant, $8.99 (ouch) www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jhtml?id=0003180210621a&navAction=jump&navCount=5&indexId=cat20849&podId=0003180&catalogCode=IC&parentId=cat20849&parentType=index&rid= |
Probably. You'll see more guys willing to buy it from a gunstore than you'll see guys going into the make-up section at Rite-Aid. It's not a macho thing either...I mean, how many shades of red do you really need anyway? "'Scuse me miss. Which shade goes best with polished brass?" |
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I got some George & Roy’s primer sealant a few years ago from a gun store. The store had a box of stuff on close out so I picked it up for about two bucks I think. Anyway as near as I could tell it was just fingernail polish. I do seal the primers and case necks on my hunting loads with nail polish. Shopko has it for 99 cents. |
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I used some model paint and sealed some primers, just to try out. That was about 2 years ago. last trip to the range, I put about 10 thru my 92F, sure fire. that only shows that the paint didn't contaminate the primer. (decapping these particular ones showed that the paint didn't go in too far in past the case edge) I guess the best thing to do would be to make up some rounds and let them sit in 'wet' environment for a while and then check them out. (sealing both primer and the neck) IIRC, I've seen someones report on a simillar test, but thats all I recall. for all I know, it could have been that one lot of LC 223 that didn't have neck sealant on it.. (??) |
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Go to an automotive paint shop and get yourself a 8 ounce can of lacquer paint in your choice of color . Get can of appropriate thinner .Mix until thin enough that it will be pulled into the space between the bullet , primer & case via capillary action . Use only enough material that it doesn't run over onto the case . Set aside & allow to dry . Have tested this in water by submersing rounds in water for 6 weeks . No leakage on treated rounds . Had SLIGHT leakage on 3 of 10 NON treated rounds in same test . So if you are going to get your ammo wet , I guess the time is worth it .All my SHTF handloads are sealed in this manner and yes it took waaaaaaay to much time to do 5K rounds !  |
I did that, and it has been added to the Ammo FAQ. I'd point you to the thread where I posted it, but without search... |
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