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Posted: 12/7/2012 10:21:52 PM EDT
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I've seen quite a bit of talk about the differences in these pieces specific for a 9mm conversion. Mine will be a 7" pistol for now, what is the general accepted best weight buffer? What spring assembly do you match it with? And do you need a spacer? Can someone please explain why also, this is my first custom AR build, as well as my first 9mm AR. Also, anything specific to look for when choosing a pistol buffer tube? Hope to have it converts to SBR in 6-8 months when the stamp comes in.
Who makes the best bang for the buck for these pieces? Thanks guys! |
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I just rebuilt my 9mm pistol with a DDLES lower instead of a normal lower with a VM-Hytech mag block.
I was running a "homemade" 9mm buffer in my original pistol. I simply filled a normal buffer with lead to make it heavier and extended the length a bit. For some reason that buffer seemed to get chewed up a bit inside the tube and it caused some failures. I replaced that buffer with a RRA 9mm buffer because it was made of steel rather than aluminum. I also cut down an old buffer to use as a make shift spacer. I'm running a side charging VM-Hytech upper and I can't allow it fully cycle as a normal length buffer would. The bolt will run into the bolt stop piece on the upper. (I've also heard of people stacking quarters in the end of the buffer tube to act as a spacer.) This setup seems to work for me. No failures in the past 400rds. 
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The thing is, there are several different manufacturers selling several different "9mm buffers", which are generally of different weights and have different design features, e.g., solid vs. two-piece vs. powder-filled vs. internal sliding weights, etc. Thus for some of us detail-oriented newbies trying to put something [reliable] together, sorting this out is a headache.
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CAR-length 9mm buffer and CAR action spring. If using a CAR-length receiver extension, that's all you need. Steve/RRA |
| A 9mm or H3 buffer (5 oz or more) with the standard spring is all you really need to function reliably. I started with a RRA 9mm carbine buffer since I was sharing my lower with multiple uppers at the time. Later, when I was able to dedicate a lower to my 9mm upper I upgraded to a Spike's ST-9X (now discontinued) 8.5 oz dedicated length buffer. Not sure if the added weight or the shorter travel was the key, but it reduced the recoil quite a bit. I think Slash's Q buffer is the closest to this setup. Also, if you're happy witht he weight of your buffer and just need a spacer you can always use the quarter trick and just drop 6 or 7 quarters in the buffer tube. |
| I'm a huge proponent of the Slash 9Q Heavy Buffer which is heavier and longer. The weight really smooths the recoil and keeps the action closed a hair longer making for quieter suppressed shooting. The length eliminates broken bolt catches. Well worth the money in my opinion. |
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Quoted: A 9mm or H3 buffer (5 oz or more) with the standard spring is all you really need to function reliably. I started with a RRA 9mm carbine buffer since I was sharing my lower with multiple uppers at the time. Later, when I was able to dedicate a lower to my 9mm upper I upgraded to a Spike's ST-9X (now discontinued) 8.5 oz dedicated length buffer. Not sure if the added weight or the shorter travel was the key, but it reduced the recoil quite a bit. I think Slash's Q buffer is the closest to this setup. Also, if you're happy witht he weight of your buffer and just need a spacer you can always use the quarter trick and just drop 6 or 7 quarters in the buffer tube. I agree that the ST9X is a great way to go. Though spikes discontinued them, you can find them out there for sale brand new. eta AIM has them http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XSTSLA009X&name=Spikes+Tactical+ST-9X+9mm+Stainless+Steel+Buffer |
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You don't need the sliding weights in a blowback weapon. Are you sure? The sliding weights should be acting as an anti-bounce weight to prevent the bolt face from bouncing backwards after making contact with the barrel. I could see this being particularly important where follow-up shots are occurring as quickly as the bolt can close, such as in full auto. -bob |
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You don't need the sliding weights in a blowback weapon. Are you sure? The sliding weights should be acting as an anti-bounce weight to prevent the bolt face from bouncing backwards after making contact with the barrel. I could see this being particularly important where follow-up shots are occurring as quickly as the bolt can close, such as in full auto. -bob I forgot to add semi-auto to that. 
Plus I didn't describe it correctly. The standard 9 mm buffer does have a sliding portion. Slash's is solid. |
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So you're saying that there's no such thing as "bolt bounce" in a blowback weapon, or are you saying that for some reason it doesn't matter if there is or not (in a blowback weapon)?
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Does the Slash 9Q heavy buffer have sliding weights in it or is it solid? Solid. You don't need the sliding weights in a blowback weapon. |
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So you're saying that there's no such thing as "bolt bounce" in a blowback weapon, or are you saying that for some reason it doesn't matter if there is or not (in a blowback weapon)? Quoted:
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Does the Slash 9Q heavy buffer have sliding weights in it or is it solid? Solid. You don't need the sliding weights in a blowback weapon. See my later post |
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I just had a gun given to me to troubleshoot. It had a very heavy and extra long buffer and it did not run. Before I even took it to the range I swapped the buffer and spring for more of a normal setup.
When I got to the range the gun ran perfect. Just to test I put the old super heavy buffer and spring back in and it would not run. I’d suggest when building a gun to use a regular setup first, then experiment with heavy buffer, spacers and extra power springs. |
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