AR Sponsor
Posted: 11/26/2009 4:11:16 PM EDT
| if I want a tac sol or spikes upper do I really need to change to a none hooked hammer? |
|
Quoted:
if I want a tac sol or spikes upper do I really need to change to a none hooked hammer? I don't know if the Spikes require it, but the Tactical Solutions does. I have a Tac-Sol upper and I was building a lower for it, I used a DPMS lower parts kit, because they use a un-notched hammer in their LPKs. |
|
Dumb me, but what is the difference between a notched and un-notched hammer?
I have a Colt SP1 and a Bushmaster AR and the hammers are a little different but don't know why. I run a Ciener kit and a M261 on each but the SP1 seems to wear on the bottom of the bolts for both kits but more on the M261 than the Ciener |
|
good news o nthe cmmg kit (I have a cmmg 5.56 upper). it would be safer here in ca to use a dedicated upper rather than a drop in so its looking like I will need to change the hammer. I think I might be leaning more towards the spikes at the moment just waiting to hear more feedback on using the notched hammer. |
|
Quoted:
Dumb me, but what is the difference between a notched and un-notched hammer? I have a Colt SP1 and a Bushmaster AR and the hammers are a little different but don't know why. I run a Ciener kit and a M261 on each but the SP1 seems to wear on the bottom of the bolts for both kits but more on the M261 than the Ciener . The notched hammer is the (AR-15 (STD) - .155) in the picture and the unotched or smooth hammer that works the best for most 22 kits is the (AR-15 (Early) - .155). A DPMS hammer is like the unotched/smooth and works good. . Pictures of hammers |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Dumb me, but what is the difference between a notched and un-notched hammer? I have a Colt SP1 and a Bushmaster AR and the hammers are a little different but don't know why. I run a Ciener kit and a M261 on each but the SP1 seems to wear on the bottom of the bolts for both kits but more on the M261 than the Ciener . The notched hammer is the (AR-15 (STD) - .155) in the picture and the unotched or smooth hammer that works the best for most 22 kits is the (AR-15 (Early) - .155). A DPMS hammer is like the unotched/smooth and works good. . Pictures of hammers 
That's the one you want. Good link there, Redtazdog |
|
Quoted:
FWIW, the Spikes conversion kits my dept uses seem to work about the same on our M16s (non-notched) and AR-15s (notched). My upper has only been run on a DPMS non-notched hammer so I haven't tested it on mine. Notched hammers can sometimes be a problem with any of the Ciener-style bolts (Spikes, CMMG, TacSol, ...) because of tolerance issues between the underside of the bolt and the top of the hammer. On guns where it's a problem, the two corners on the top of the hammer sort of "dig in" to the underside of the bolt and cause it to jam at the rear of its travel. Freeing it up can require thumping the buttstock on the floor or pulling the rear takedown pin. Some notched hammers and bolts work just fine together, so its impossible to predict in advance. |
|
I followed this thread, w/out really understanding what the problem was.
If the problem is like the one I had with the RRA NM2 trigger on my DPMS LR308, where the top of the hammer were pushing the bottom of the bolt carrier a little bit too much, that's easily solvable by removing 1/16" from the top/front of the hammer with a Dremel. |
|
Quoted:
I followed this thread, w/out really understanding what the problem was. If the problem is like the one I had with the RRA NM2 trigger on my DPMS LR308, where the top of the hammer were pushing the bottom of the bolt carrier a little bit too much, that's easily solvable by removing 1/16" from the top/front of the hammer with a Dremel. Yes, that's pretty much it. |
AR Sponsor