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Posted: 4/25/2009 6:53:47 PM EDT
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I just purchased a .22 dedicated upper from Model 1 Sales and I am having some serious problems with it. When I first received it along with 2 BDM magazines I got about 10 rounds through off of the back deck here in the woods then put it away. About 2 weeks later I went over to my dedicated range with my son to give it a try, had 3 mags and a brick and did not even make it through 25 rounds!
Each magazine had FTF's and FTC's (Chamber) along with FTF's. I have not yet built up my dedicated lower with the hammer spring so I don't want to complain about the FTF since we are warned that the spring may need to be swapped out. BUT the ammo either hangs up not allowing the bolt to strip and close, the ammo hangs up at the edge of the chamber bending the bullet at the casing or the ammo chambers but the bolt will not fully go forward. Does anyone have suggestions? I have coated the bolt rails and such with Break Free CLP and cycled often. The gun and chamber is clean, and it seems to be so many different problems I don't know where to start. |
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I have Remington, CCI, Winchester, Federal and a few flavors of a few of those. The Federal is what is suggested by Model 1 Sales. I don't have a lot of it...not like everyone has any let alone a LOT of any .22LR now but I was lucky enough to have one package of the stuff I purchased back in December.
Funny...I bought a dedicated upper to shoot with my son and save up on .223 ammo. Truth of the matter right now is that it's easyer to buy and reload .223 than it is for me to use up the stash of .22LR that I have and have to track down more!  NEVER thought I'd see a problem buying .22LR. Bout the only thing I see on the shelves regularly and at a reasonable price is shotgun ammo.
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| Mine hates Remington ammo. It constantly fails to feed, with the rounds jamming. Today I loaded up my mags with some Centurion(made by Aquila) and it fed and ejected perfectly. The only problem were a few light pin strikes. I have a feeling my firing pin may be to blame. I have since ordered a couple of Black Dog Machine's hardend firing pins. I have changed the hammer spring and put in a heavier buffer spring. Will see what happens when the new firing pins arrive. |
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Sounds to me like you have two distinct problems.
i. Bolt not going forward far enough to strip a round sounds like an issue with a notched hammer causing the bolt to lock up. How far forward does the bolt move? If it locks all the way back, its the hammer, otherwise it might be hitting the top of the .223 bolt catch in the lower. What hammer/trigger are you running? ii. Failure to fully close the bolt on the chamber is usually caused by using "difficult" ammo (e.g. Rem GB's) in a new chamber which still has rough edges. Swap ammo to Federal Bulk, or something else with pointy noses, or try these tweaks. |
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Using the DPMS trigger kit on this lower. I picked up 2 RRA LPK's yesterday and thinking of building one of those up on another lower and using the orange hammer spring that Model 1 provided with the upper.
Like I said on the other thread I WISH I could use Federal Bulk, I have one box and have not seen any since January I am a Wallmart "Vulture" stopping in about every 2 days at 8:30 am. Honestly thinking of paying someone off there to call me when the truck comes in! SERIOUSLY I think it's the only way and I don't care if it's "not fair", I don't like the idea of dealers paying someone to go there every morning and cleaning the place out either. Yes my gut right now is that it's chamber AND a magazine issue. The most recent failure was a real PIA, upon extaction ejected casing started coming out, jammed in the upper bolt carrier while starting to chamber a new round. It took quite some effort with my leatherman to get the shell out. I know there is a break in period but to break it in you got to shoot it, right now my Thompson Contender single shot is more like a MG than this upper is a semi-auto. I think I am going to have to do a polishing job first before I can even get even 20% reliability so I can shoot it to break it in. |
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A rounded DPMS hammer is the best choice, since it shouldn't hang up on the bolt in any way. Better check the underside of the bolt for scrape marks to see if its been contacting the bolt latch in the lower. If it has, its usually only a few thou you need to take off the top of the latch, or sometimes because the bolt rails themselves are slightly bowed.
Polishing really will help with chambering Rem GB's. You may still not get to 100% function, but at least it should be usable. Clearing stovepipes from the charging handle area is usually easiest if you can hold the bolt open without pulling on the charging handle itself. Open the bolt then stick your finger or thumb against the side of the bolt to stop it moving while you shake out the empty casing. You may also want to check the fit of the extractor and how well it holds empties against the bolt face. They need to be reasonably snug for consistent ejection - any time the empty slips down the bolt face, it can result in the empties hitting the mag lips, at which point they fling upwards into the charging handle area. |
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