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| Try the upper without the silencer, and with the silencer and see if the backpressure of the silencer is what cruds your cases up. You might be able to come up with some type of hollow spacer/extension tube between your barrel and silencer to decrease the blowback. |
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Quoted: Does the blow back on these cases look like a chamber or breach problem on my barrel? I've got a spikes and I can not get it to run - even after two returns to spike. OK< 'exactly what does "cannot get it to run" mean specifically? and what concerns you about the dirty cases? do they correctly eject? what is happening? the crud it'self isn't a problem if the cases are ejecting properly. |
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These springs will help to cycle sub ammo after you break it in. the hammer spring in your lower is possibly to strong and wont let the hammer come back far enough to cycle even with HV ammo. this is a comon problem that most people blame the maker of the 22lr upper. But if you bought the whole gun from the maker then send it back again or explain with more detail what is the problem then we can help. www.jbarms.citymax.com/catalog/item/3766994/3541941.htm |
Wow, they really rape you on the price of those. I run these: www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16652 The JP are a little lighter still: www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7582 |
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] Wow, they really rape you on the price of those. I run these: www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16652 The JP are a little lighter still: www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7582 you get a complete spring tune kit to adjust the action to the load you're shooting. by the time you get done nickel and diming your 22 you're into your cheaper fixes for about $15 more then the $23.00 kit in the first place |
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I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber. I have a lakeside light hammer spring. And opposite to what many have done, I cut the recoil spring shorter than the original to help cycle subsoincs. (doesn't take so much power to push back and reset hammer) And I've tried every variation posted on all the boards. Different recoil/hammer springs, ammo, polishing, swapping parts from two cieners, etc, etc. Edit to add - I'm thinking the chambers to big and enough gasses are getting by to lose resetting strength. |
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The first barrel I sent back to Spike's and the second barrel I kept both had huge rough chambers that look like they were cut with a dull drill bit. My first barrel also had two tight spots that would cause it to foul so bad within ten shots that rounds would be sideways on paper at five yards. That said, have you taken a close look at the magazines? I had to cut back the right feed lip on my Black Dog mags because the fired brass on extraction would hit the feed lip before the ejector. My conversion now runs great on both Federal AutoMatch and CCI Blazer. |
sounds like you could benefit from the tape on the floating chamber insert, to determine if you are right about gasses by-pass. try that, let us know the results. isolate things one at a time. |
I suffered similar problems as result of a broken firing pin. The tip of the pin would rotate and not strike the rim sufficiently to ignite the primer. The pin broke at a slight angle, if the tip rotated just so it was about .020" longer than it should be. Any time the hammer fell on an empty chamber it would peen the chamber. I got such a burr that the rifle would fail to extract and chamber 100% of the time. |
regarding the original FP: two things about the stock pin lend to breakage. the 90deg shoulder at the firing pin tip, and the definitve u-notch where the retaining pin fits. I made a replacement pin from a stock AR FP. stick the point of the FP in an electric drill as far as it will go. use a file (I stuck the file in a vise, and hand-held the drill )to grind the end of the pin (not the knob that the ar hammer hits, that will be partially cut off to finish) narrower, until it matches the dia of the original ciener fp pin head. do similar with the body of the AR FP, so it matches the body dia of the original FP. next, cut a 45deg shoulder at the place where the orig pin has a 90deg. somewhere along here, you'll be moving the pin out of the chuck, so you can thin the part that goes through the FP hole in the bolt. cut it long, so that when the pin without a spring, sits in position in the bolt, as far as it would go when struck by the hammer, the end of the pin is flush with the bolt face that contacts the chamber. This gives maximum force for igniting primer, without danger of peening the face of the chamber. I've made 2, I've got a regular ciener and a shorty kit. haven't had either break in several thousand rounds. good luck. it's easier than it sounds, if a person is at all mechanically inclined. |
When I run it with a 223 barrel and a chamber insert it runs flawless... just don't want to shoot it w/my 223 setup. |
ok,now you have me really confused.from others comments, I thought you were having trouble with a floating chamber ciener kit. your commentabove about makes me think I was wrong. I'll be happy to help, if you will describe the barrel config you are using that doesn't work. mikeyonthemadone Anyone else reading this, that has made their own FP from an AR FP, has yours broken, and where did the pin break, and what do you think caused the homemade one to break? raffica45 |
He said Spike's in his original post. Spike's barrels use a modified Ciener kit. |
innocent, thanks for reminding me about what I overlooked. is that the kit that has a ciener kit I'd ship it back to spikes and get a refund, considering they have had it twice & you still have problems. YMMV |
Yep, I think I'll send it back. Anybody suggest what 22lr barrel and upper to get? That works good? |
+1 I'm really disapointed in the quality of Spikes barrels. I wont own another one. I'm building a second 22LR AR right now bt it will not be a Spikes. |
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Hello everyone - Spike here, I have been very busy making improvements on my .22 project. I have built around 500 uppers and have had some issues with barrels. I am now using Model One barrels and have had better results. They are made from Shaw blanks and Brian does a good job finishing the barrels. My biggest problem is getting bolt supplies and we should have that rectified shortly. I am using a new finish that should help with all the dirty blow back issues. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns. 407-953-2666 Thanks, Spike |
If you are using Model 1 barrels now, what's the twist rate? |
Listed as 1x15 on the site. www.model1sales.com/catalog-list.cfm?Category=15&Subcat=%2E22LR%20Barrels&storeid=1 And yes, my Spike's barrel sucks as far as accuracy and quality of workmanship. |
Hey Spike, have you got any of those barrels 5" long in stock now? I'm going to have to swap mine out with you if thats ok. Mines just not working. Guess I've got one of the older ones that don't work to good. |
+1 Mine patterns at 25meters and the threads are boodering up my can. The upper is really nice as is the lower and the ceiner kit, but that barrel is |
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