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12/29/2007 6:44:56 PM EDT
Does the blow back on these cases look like a chamber or breach problem on my barrel? I've got a spikes and I can not get it to run - even after two returns to spike.







12/29/2007 7:58:46 PM EDT
[#1]
What ammo are you using ?
With or wothout a silencer ?
12/29/2007 8:55:43 PM EDT
[#2]
I've tried all kinds of ammo and I am using a can.
12/29/2007 9:05:40 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
I've tried all kinds of ammo and I am using a can.



That will do it right there. I have several rifles that do the same thing with a can on them.
12/29/2007 11:27:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Try the upper without the silencer, and with the silencer and see if the backpressure of the silencer is what cruds your cases up.  You might be able to come up with some type of hollow spacer/extension tube between your barrel and silencer to decrease the blowback.
12/30/2007 4:19:52 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Does the blow back on these cases look like a chamber or breach problem on my barrel? I've got a spikes and I can not get it to run - even after two returns to spike.

OK< 'exactly what does "cannot get it to run" mean specifically?  and what concerns you about the dirty cases? do they correctly eject? what is happening? the crud it'self isn't a problem if the cases are ejecting properly.
12/30/2007 5:34:31 PM EDT
[#6]
i had issues with all my 22lr's running a can before the first 100 rds.
once i ran 1-200 rds like any firearm, after break in. the issues seemed to resolve themself.you should run an easy 100+ rds w/out the can first.
i'd run standard or hi-vel first.
12/30/2007 5:37:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Spike's cuts huge chambers in their barrels.

Mine does now run fine just doesn't have good accuracy.

What are the failures you are having?
12/30/2007 6:23:18 PM EDT
[#8]
These springs will help to cycle sub ammo after you break it in.
the hammer spring in your lower is possibly to strong and
wont let the hammer come back far enough to cycle even with HV ammo.
this is a comon problem that most people blame the maker of the 22lr upper.
But if you bought the whole gun from the maker then send it back again or explain
with more detail what is the problem then we can help.

www.jbarms.citymax.com/catalog/item/3766994/3541941.htm
12/30/2007 6:30:32 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
www.jbarms.citymax.com/catalog/item/3766994/3541941.htm


Wow, they really rape you on the price of those.

I run these:

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16652

The JP are a little lighter still:

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7582

12/30/2007 6:55:58 PM EDT
[#10]
your not getting recoil springs with that kit.
I see they raised the price
You can tune your bolt to run good with any sub ammo with
the correct recoil and hammer spring.
can you run aguila subs with your JAC kit ?
12/30/2007 8:32:39 PM EDT
[#11]
]
Wow, they really rape you on the price of those.

I run these:

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16652

The JP are a little lighter still:

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7582




you get a complete spring tune kit to adjust the action to the load you're shooting.
by the time you get done nickel and diming your 22 you're into your cheaper fixes for about $15 more then the $23.00 kit in the first place
12/30/2007 9:55:21 PM EDT
[#12]
I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer  strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes  it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber.

I have a lakeside light hammer spring.

And opposite to what many have done, I cut the recoil spring shorter than the original to help cycle subsoincs. (doesn't take so much power to push back and reset hammer)

And I've tried every variation posted on all the boards. Different recoil/hammer springs, ammo, polishing, swapping parts from two cieners, etc, etc.

Edit to add - I'm thinking the chambers to big and enough gasses are getting by to lose resetting strength.
12/31/2007 1:22:00 AM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer  strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes  it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber.

I have a lakeside light hammer spring.

And opposite to what many have done, I cut the recoil spring shorter than the original to help cycle subsoincs. (doesn't take so much power to push back and reset hammer)

And I've tried every variation posted on all the boards. Different recoil/hammer springs, ammo, polishing, swapping parts from two cieners, etc, etc.

Edit to add - I'm thinking the chambers to big and enough gasses are getting by to lose resetting strength.


What ammo ?

what Barrel ?
223 or 22lr

What upper ?
KKF or Model1 or Olympic or spikes or Kuehl or Dpms or Home made or ?

Are you loosing blowback presure becouse of a sloppy chamber or JAC chamber
adapter ?
if so try this

Better groups with JAC 22LR kit and more blowback for better cycle

Some of the JAC 22LR 223 chamber adapters are not the same
I have 2 of these, 1 for my Kurts cutom firearms barrel
and 1 that I use for normal AR 223 barrels.
one of the chamber adapters is smaller than the other
like 2 to 3 thousands smaller.
If you have a 223 barrel that the chamber may be on the large
size for your JAC kit then give this a try.

I took 2 strips of scotch tape and wrapped it around the JAC adapter
end to end not overlap and made a more snug fit for the 223 chamber barrel.
the picture shows
My groups went from 1.5 groups to .5 at 50 yrds using the same
CCI sv and sub 40grn ammo
OR
If you have a loose fit addapter and want a good fix chuck the addapter
in a lathe and cut 2 O ring grooves.

OR




Redtazdog


12/31/2007 4:28:16 AM EDT
[#14]
The first barrel I sent back to Spike's and the second barrel I kept both had huge rough chambers that look like they were cut with a dull drill bit. My first barrel also had two tight spots that would cause it to foul so bad within ten shots that rounds would be sideways on paper at five yards.

That said, have you taken a close look at the magazines?

I had to cut back the right feed lip on my Black Dog mags because the fired brass on extraction would hit the feed lip before the ejector.

My conversion now runs great on both Federal AutoMatch and CCI Blazer.
12/31/2007 4:54:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Interesting. Tag.
12/31/2007 3:40:40 PM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:

That said, have you taken a close look at the magazines?

I had to cut back the right feed lip on my Black Dog mags because the fired brass on extraction would hit the feed lip before the ejector.


Did that all ready
12/31/2007 4:07:53 PM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:
I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer  strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes  it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber.

I have a lakeside light hammer spring.

And opposite to what many have done, I cut the recoil spring shorter than the original to help cycle subsoincs. (doesn't take so much power to push back and reset hammer)

And I've tried every variation posted on all the boards. Different recoil/hammer springs, ammo, polishing, swapping parts from two cieners, etc, etc.

Edit to add - I'm thinking the chambers to big and enough gasses are getting by to lose resetting strength.


sounds like you could benefit from the tape on the floating chamber insert, to determine if you are right about gasses by-pass.
try that, let us know the results. isolate things one at a time.
12/31/2007 4:44:51 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer  strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes  it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber.



I suffered similar problems as result of a broken firing pin. The tip of the pin would rotate and not strike the rim sufficiently to ignite the primer. The pin broke at a slight angle, if the tip rotated just so it was about .020" longer than it should be. Any time the hammer fell on an empty chamber it would peen the chamber. I got such a burr that the rifle would fail to extract and chamber 100% of the time.
12/31/2007 4:56:37 PM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer  strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes  it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber.



I suffered similar problems as result of a broken firing pin. The tip of the pin would rotate and not strike the rim sufficiently to ignite the primer. The pin broke at a slight angle, if the tip rotated just so it was about .020" longer than it should be. Any time the hammer fell on an empty chamber it would peen the chamber. I got such a burr that the rifle would fail to extract and chamber 100% of the time.


 regarding the original FP:
two things about the stock pin lend to breakage. the 90deg shoulder at the firing pin tip, and the definitve u-notch where the retaining pin fits. I made a replacement pin from a stock AR FP. stick the point of the FP in an electric drill as far as it will go. use a file (I stuck the file in a vise, and hand-held the drill )to grind the end of the pin (not the knob that the ar hammer hits, that will be partially cut off to finish) narrower, until it matches the dia of the original ciener fp pin head. do similar with the body of the AR FP, so it matches the body dia of the original FP. next, cut a 45deg shoulder at the place where the orig pin has a 90deg. somewhere along here, you'll be moving the pin out of the chuck, so you can thin the part that goes through the FP hole in the bolt. cut it long, so that when the pin without a spring, sits in position in the bolt, as far as it would go when struck by the hammer, the end of the pin is flush with the bolt face that contacts the chamber. This gives maximum force for igniting primer, without danger of peening the face of the chamber. I've made 2, I've got a regular ciener and a shorty kit. haven't had either break in several thousand rounds. good luck. it's easier than it sounds, if a person is at all mechanically inclined.
12/31/2007 11:19:16 PM EDT
[#20]
Raffica 45..


MUCHO APPRECIADO! ( I meant to yell!)
I have been looking at pictures of a homebuilt fp and want to make one up in advance. Now I have directions AND pictures.



Mikey
1/1/2008 12:38:30 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
I'm having problems w/failure to fire (light hammer  strikes, hammer not resetting) and some jamming in the chamber as the bullet starts into it. Sometimes  it tries to go in cock-eyed and shaves some lead off the bullet at the top of the chamber.

I have a lakeside light hammer spring.

And opposite to what many have done, I cut the recoil spring shorter than the original to help cycle subsoincs. (doesn't take so much power to push back and reset hammer)

And I've tried every variation posted on all the boards. Different recoil/hammer springs, ammo, polishing, swapping parts from two cieners, etc, etc.

Edit to add - I'm thinking the chambers to big and enough gasses are getting by to lose resetting strength.


sounds like you could benefit from the tape on the floating chamber insert, to determine if you are right about gasses by-pass.
try that, let us know the results. isolate things one at a time.


When I run it with a 223 barrel and a chamber insert it runs flawless... just don't want to shoot it w/my 223 setup.
1/1/2008 5:14:11 AM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:

When I run it with a 223 barrel and a chamber insert it runs flawless... just don't want to shoot it w/my 223 setup.




ok,now you have me really confused.from others comments, I thought you were having trouble with a floating chamber ciener kit. your commentabove  about makes me think I was wrong.  I'll be happy to help, if you will describe the barrel config you are using that doesn't work.

mikeyonthemadone
thanks, let us know how well it runs. were it me, I'd change to the AR pin replacement before I ever started shooting.

Anyone else reading this, that has made their own FP from an AR FP, has yours broken, and where did the pin break, and what do you think caused the homemade one to break?  raffica45
1/1/2008 11:09:53 AM EDT
[#23]
I'm going to be making a replacement out of an AR pin, but it would be nice to be able to buy one "off the shelf" so to speak, particularly for those who can't WECSOG one of their own.
1/1/2008 11:52:45 AM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:

ok,now you have me really confused.from others comments, I thought you were having trouble with a floating chamber ciener kit. your commentabove  about makes me think I was wrong.  I'll be happy to help, if you will describe the barrel config you are using that doesn't work.


He said Spike's in his original post.

Spike's barrels use a modified Ciener kit.
1/1/2008 2:06:08 PM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:

Quoted:

ok,now you have me really confused.from others comments, I thought you were having trouble with a floating chamber ciener kit. your commentabove  about makes me think I was wrong.  I'll be happy to help, if you will describe the barrel config you are using that doesn't work.


He said Spike's in his original post.

Spike's barrels use a modified Ciener kit.



innocent, thanks for reminding me about what I overlooked.

is that the kit that has a ciener kit

collar

that has the feed ramp, and it fits over a tenon on the barrel? if so, I'm still not understanding why dirty cases is a cause for concern. assuming Spike's uses the setup I mention, and has no gas tube, the blowback can only be from a too large chamber, IMHO.  
  I'd ship it back to spikes and get a refund, considering they have had it twice & you still have problems. YMMV
1/1/2008 11:18:23 PM EDT
[#26]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

ok,now you have me really confused.from others comments, I thought you were having trouble with a floating chamber ciener kit. your commentabove  about makes me think I was wrong.  I'll be happy to help, if you will describe the barrel config you are using that doesn't work.


He said Spike's in his original post.

Spike's barrels use a modified Ciener kit.



innocent, thanks for reminding me about what I overlooked.

is that the kit that has a ciener kit

collar

that has the feed ramp, and it fits over a tenon on the barrel? if so, I'm still not understanding why dirty cases is a cause for concern. assuming Spike's uses the setup I mention, and has no gas tube, the blowback can only be from a too large chamber, IMHO.  
  I'd ship it back to spikes and get a refund, considering they have had it twice & you still have problems. YMMV


Yep, I think I'll send it back.  Anybody suggest what 22lr barrel and upper to get? That works good?
1/2/2008 3:23:31 PM EDT
[#27]
I'm happy with my RCS Guns dedicated upper.
1/2/2008 3:53:58 PM EDT
[#28]
Any reports on the Model 1 Sales coversion?

It is a shame that Spike's uses such crappy barrel blanks and then backs that up with a crappy chamber.
1/3/2008 2:57:14 PM EDT
[#29]

Quoted:
Any reports on the Model 1 Sales coversion?

It is a shame that Spike's uses such crappy barrel blanks and then backs that up with a crappy chamber.


+1 I'm really disapointed in the quality of Spikes barrels.  I wont own another one.  I'm building a second 22LR AR right now bt it will not be a Spikes.
1/3/2008 3:55:58 PM EDT
[#30]
Not to hijack thread but my Spikes upper came with a barrel marked M1S 22LR...
Is this normal or a possible change of vendor?
1/3/2008 5:20:52 PM EDT
[#31]

Quoted:
Not to hijack thread but my Spikes upper came with a barrel marked M1S 22LR...
Is this normal or a possible change of vendor?



Hmmm.....intersting.
1/4/2008 1:19:12 PM EDT
[#32]
The Spikes upper I just recieved, also has a barrel stamped M1S.
1/4/2008 3:24:12 PM EDT
[#33]
How do your kits run with the M1S barrel?

I've got the $$$ set aside to buy a .22 upper and I want to make the right choice.
1/4/2008 4:27:20 PM EDT
[#34]
Hello everyone - Spike here,
I have been very busy making improvements on my .22 project. I have built around 500 uppers and have had some issues with barrels. I am now using Model One barrels and have had better results. They are made from Shaw blanks and Brian does a good job finishing the barrels. My biggest problem is getting bolt supplies and we should have that rectified shortly. I am using a new finish that should help with all the dirty blow back issues. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.
407-953-2666
Thanks,
Spike
1/4/2008 4:42:03 PM EDT
[#35]

Quoted:
Hello everyone - Spike here,
I have been very busy making improvements on my .22 project. I have built around 500 uppers and have had some issues with barrels. I am now using Model One barrels and have had better results. They are made from Shaw blanks and Brian does a good job finishing the barrels. My biggest problem is getting bolt supplies and we should have that rectified shortly. I am using a new finish that should help with all the dirty blow back issues. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.
407-953-2666
Thanks,
Spike


If you are using Model 1 barrels now, what's the twist rate?  
1/4/2008 5:18:34 PM EDT
[#36]
The rate of twist in the M1S barrels is 1 in 16.
1/4/2008 5:23:36 PM EDT
[#37]

Quoted:
The rate of twist in the M1S barrels is 1 in 16.


Listed as 1x15 on the site.

www.model1sales.com/catalog-list.cfm?Category=15&Subcat=%2E22LR%20Barrels&storeid=1

And yes, my Spike's barrel sucks as far as accuracy and quality of workmanship.
1/4/2008 8:45:00 PM EDT
[#38]

Quoted:
Hello everyone - Spike here,
I have been very busy making improvements on my .22 project. I have built around 500 uppers and have had some issues with barrels. I am now using Model One barrels and have had better results. They are made from Shaw blanks and Brian does a good job finishing the barrels. My biggest problem is getting bolt supplies and we should have that rectified shortly. I am using a new finish that should help with all the dirty blow back issues. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.
407-953-2666
Thanks,
Spike


Hey Spike, have you got any of those barrels 5" long in stock now? I'm going to have to swap mine out with you if thats ok. Mines just not working. Guess I've got one of the older ones that don't work to good.
1/5/2008 5:07:20 AM EDT
[#39]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Hello everyone - Spike here,
I have been very busy making improvements on my .22 project. I have built around 500 uppers and have had some issues with barrels. I am now using Model One barrels and have had better results. They are made from Shaw blanks and Brian does a good job finishing the barrels. My biggest problem is getting bolt supplies and we should have that rectified shortly. I am using a new finish that should help with all the dirty blow back issues. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.
407-953-2666
Thanks,
Spike


Hey Spike, have you got any of those barrels 5" long in stock now? I'm going to have to swap mine out with you if thats ok. Mines just not working. Guess I've got one of the older ones that don't work to good.


+1 Mine patterns at 25meters and the threads are boodering up my can.  The upper is really nice as is the lower and the ceiner kit, but that barrel is
1/5/2008 5:21:02 AM EDT
[#40]

Quoted:
The rate of twist in the M1S barrels is 1 in 16.


Are you absolutely positive?  
2/26/2008 4:05:06 PM EDT
[#41]
My 6" Spike upper runs like a champ, 6000 suppressed rounds now with Zero issues.
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