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Posted: 1/16/2006 10:09:32 AM EDT
I ramped the bolt on my Colt style 9mm similar to what is shown in the faq pics, but now if the trigger is held back when the action cycles, the hammer rides back forward and doesn't cock. It will cycle and cock fine as long as there is a quick pull and release of the trigger. It looks as if the forward portion of the bolt where the hammer slides doesn't stick down enough to push the hammer into the disconnector.

I didn't take off a huge amount of material and my "ramp" portion of the bolt is shorter than the one in the faq(as I didn't take off as much material as the pics). It looks like the bolt would have to be almost stock in order to function the disconnector properly.

This is with a RRA style AR-15 hammer. With the original 9mm hammer, the bolt won't move back more than 1/4"( the faq says that the 9mm hammers won't always work)

Any ideas besides welding some material back onto the bolt?
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 10:49:13 AM EDT
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 2:08:52 PM EDT
so you did it yourself while comparing to pictures?
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 2:38:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/16/2006 2:42:12 PM EDT by joe1972]

Originally Posted By eklikwhoa:
so you did it yourself while comparing to pictures?



I was thinking the same idea...
Hope it looks like this:


Top bolt shows standard ramping on 223 style bolt, bottom bolt has been ramped!
Notice that the area the hammer must travel to reset has increased with the ramping about 100%.
You do not need to remove any material below the existing plane the is presented, just extend the ramp further back!
I hope this helps you, please post some pics maybe we could see what it looks like and help you better!

Joe

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 2:39:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/16/2006 2:42:38 PM EDT by SBR7_11]

Originally Posted By mark97se:


This is with a RRA style AR-15 hammer With the original 9mm hammer, the bolt won't move back more than 1/4"( the faq says that the 9mm hammers won't always work)

Uhhhh, quit using that hammer with the notch on the top face.... get a hammer that has the round top... looks like M16, but for semi-auto we lose the offending auto-sear lug on the tail, also available from DPMS and a few other vendors.You lost some hammer movement with the missing material off the top of the hammer.





DO NOT USE the hammer on the right --


Any ideas besides welding some material back onto the bolt?
DON"T WELD THE BOLT !!.


If you feel like welding up the top of the hammer, go for it

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 2:45:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/16/2006 2:45:26 PM EDT by joe1972]
Hello SBR7_11!
I belive the pictures I used above originaly came from you, is this correct?
Is it ok if we use them here?

joe
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 6:54:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/17/2006 6:58:45 AM EDT by mark97se]
Yes, I did it myself while comparing it to the pics. I'll post pics if the ideas suggested don't work, but I don't think that they will make a difference, as it looks like the pics posted above. I'm going to order a DPMS hammer and maybe play with the disconnector since I have a few extras laying around.

Joe, I think that you may be confused. Unlike the .223 BC shown in the pic, a standard 9mm bolt has no ramp at all, so you must remove metal to make the angle and extend it forward on the bolt.

You do not need to remove any material below the existing plane the is presented, just extend the ramp further back! -Joe


Why does the FAQ say that the RRA hammers work with ramped bolts if they don't?

4. AR-15 ("Rock River") Style hammer
Description: Similar to M16 hammer but with no spur/hook on back and a notch at the top front face
M16: Yes(?)
AR-15: Yes
Colt Style 9mm: No. WARNING- this will most likely BADLY jam hammer against bolt on first shot and not only jam weapon, but make removal of upper from lower extremely difficult!
Colt Style 9mm w/Ramped Bolt: Yes
Olympic Arms Pistol upper: Yes

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