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Official Arizona Regulators triggers thread (Page 20 of 22)
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Originally Posted By Trunkmonkey4: I’m new to all of this. I want an 3 position frt to drop into a usgi close with zero exterior clues. I think AZR is what I want, but damn if this guy doesn’t have the worst website. Tried to read as much as I could here, can someone help me? - is the A1 the only 3 position offering? This one seems to come complete with trigger & selector. - if I drop the frt unit into another usgi lower, will it work? Will it be 2 position or 3? It's not a contained unit like RB or Partisan. The 3-position is a complete trigger group and the AZR device (which goes in the upper receiver sear pocket). The 2-position is a drop-in AZR device that goes in the upper sear pocket and is trigger specific. |
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Originally Posted By Trunkmonkey4: I’m new to all of this. I want an 3 position frt to drop into a usgi close with zero exterior clues. I think AZR is what I want, but damn if this guy doesn’t have the worst website. Tried to read as much as I could here, can someone help me? - is the A1 the only 3 position offering? This one seems to come complete with trigger & selector. - if I drop the frt unit into another usgi lower, will it work? Will it be 2 position or 3? You want the A1. It comes with the trigger, hammer, selector, everything you need. The little Regulator module, the thing that makes it run, only works with those trigger parts. If it’s a carbine length buffer, make sure you have an H3 with tungsten weights. A standard rifle length buffer will also work. |
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| I have 2 of the AR drop ins that I could not get to work. I tried in an older DPMS that it would not close correctly (I have later replaced that with a Partisan and getting it working - TY @ELittlefield). I want to sell these as I prefer the 3-way triggers over always "enhanced semi". I have not seen any of these triggers for sale in the EE. I read through all the EE rules and didn't find where they were specifically not allowed. Am I missing something? |
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Originally Posted By pfddi: I have 2 of the AR drop ins that I could not get to work. I tried in an older DPMS that it would not close correctly (I have later replaced that with a Partisan and getting it working - TY @ELittlefield). I want to sell these as I prefer the 3-way triggers over always "enhanced semi". I have not seen any of these triggers for sale in the EE. I read through all the EE rules and didn't find where they were specifically not allowed. Am I missing something? edit: Be sure to state whether you modified the lower leg of the device when you list them. |
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Has anyone noted that one may now purchase two 3 position AZR-15A1 units at a time and that an ambi mil spec selector is now an option? Now that it is taking him days to sell out the AZR-15A1 units, I had expected that this would happen. Why restrict supply when it is evident that the market is cooling? I was waiting to buy more until I didn't need to putz around getting them one per week. That is time consuming. Link here Minimum Purchase: 1 unit Maximum Purchase: 2 units AZR-15A1: (Required) AZR-15A1 System $288 includes Std Mil-Spec 3 Position Selector AZR-15A1 System $288 with add on AMBI Mil-Spec 3 Position Selector $48 I am glad to see that one may now pick up more than one AZR 15a1 at a time. I have looked forward to that. I am also glad to see an ambi option available. |
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What can be done to help the dingus stay in the upper? I have an upper that is a little loose. The dingus fits but usually stays in the lower when its opened up. I was thinking maybe a small dot of permatex black silicon would do well to help it stay while not hurting anything in long run. Is there a better method? |
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Originally Posted By ROMAD-556: What can be done to help the dingus stay in the upper? I have an upper that is a little loose. The dingus fits but usually stays in the lower when its opened up. I was thinking maybe a small dot of permatex black silicon would do well to help it stay while not hurting anything in long run. Is there a better method? Blue loctite? ETA: nevermind-don’t do anything to make the installation difficult to get in and out, you can’t get the bolt carrier out of the upper with the regulator dingus installed. |
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Got my 3 position Regulator installed this week and had a very successful first outing. I had to take my upper to a friend’s shop while I was there doing other work on some guns I am building, the upper my Regulator in didn’t have the USGI pocket in it you need to install the Regulator Dingus. I was going to take measurements off of a USGI upper I have and mill the pocket with a 3/4” endmill, but my friend has CAD for the upper and just wrote cutter path and milled it on his CNC instead. This was great as he could tickle the offsets and get a nice, tight fit to where I can pop it in and out of the upper but it doesn’t just fall out. I just realized that the advice I gave about loctiting the dingus in the upper is a bad idea because you can’t get your bolt carrier in and out without being able to remove the dingus, so the good fit is a blessing. I put an H3 buffer with a sliding weight from PSA in it and it ran perfectly even though it was undergassed-this was a fresh build and I left the Allen key for my adjustable gas block at home. Cyclic rate was slower than I was expecting, but not really given the gas setting-it wouldn’t lock back on an empty mag. Hardly felt the trigger palpitation-very impressed and can’t wait to try my other FRT’s in other guns. One thing that makes a huge difference in the trigger is stoning/diamond filing and then buffing the sear engagement surfaces. It doesn’t fix the trigger pull but it takes the grit out of it. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Mine was corrected by installing it in a different rifle. The geometry of the lower pin holes and upper pocket can affect it, too. I hope you folks understand that problems like this are not really an Arizona Regulator problem and an issue of tolerance stacking between features on the upper and lower that don’t really matter much to operation on an AR15 or M16. It’s amazing that the Regulator is able to do what it does-are there better ways to skin the cat? Sure, but once you sort out the clearance problems these are solid units. |
Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs."
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Do you happen to have a Larue 1 stage MBT in your parts bin? Can the 3 position Regulator be made to work with an MBT? |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: I hope you folks understand that problems like this are not really an Arizona Regulator problem and an issue of tolerance stacking between features on the upper and lower that don’t really matter much to operation on an AR15 or M16. It’s amazing that the Regulator is able to do what it does-are there better ways to skin the cat? Sure, but once you sort out the clearance problems these are solid units. Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: Mine was corrected by installing it in a different rifle. The geometry of the lower pin holes and upper pocket can affect it, too. I hope you folks understand that problems like this are not really an Arizona Regulator problem and an issue of tolerance stacking between features on the upper and lower that don’t really matter much to operation on an AR15 or M16. It’s amazing that the Regulator is able to do what it does-are there better ways to skin the cat? Sure, but once you sort out the clearance problems these are solid units. Of course. Just by the nature of things, the AZR is more sensitive to variations in the geometry than other designs. |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Can the 3 position Regulator be made to work with an MBT? Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Do you happen to have a Larue 1 stage MBT in your parts bin? Can the 3 position Regulator be made to work with an MBT? Sure can. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/To-whom-it-may-concern-The-Larue-MBT-single-stage-drops-in-with-the-3-position-Arizona-Regulator-/130-792476/ |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Sure can. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/To-whom-it-may-concern-The-Larue-MBT-single-stage-drops-in-with-the-3-position-Arizona-Regulator-/130-792476/ Looks like they don’t make them anymore, or they do them in batches? |
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Originally Posted By ROMAD-556: What can be done to help the dingus stay in the upper? I have an upper that is a little loose. The dingus fits but usually stays in the lower when its opened up. I was thinking maybe a small dot of permatex black silicon would do well to help it stay while not hurting anything in long run. Is there a better method? Wrap the outer flange of the dingus once with Teflon tape. Then use your black silicone. Should keep it nice and tight. |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Looks like they don’t make them anymore, or they do them in batches? Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Sure can. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/To-whom-it-may-concern-The-Larue-MBT-single-stage-drops-in-with-the-3-position-Arizona-Regulator-/130-792476/ Looks like they don’t make them anymore, or they do them in batches? Correct, they're discontinued. |
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From my cocking notch is more rounded going into the notch and AZR has shelf / flat spot going into the notch. I finally noticed it in tripnx post above, with the white paint. I haven't messed with it. I did look at my other FA FCG packs and they are not shaved down like AZR is doing. I used the Schmid trigger and AZR hammer and all worked fine. Can polish the hammer some and get that smoother. |
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Originally Posted By ar556223: maybe a bit off topic but - With a 2 position, can you fire one rd only? or will you always get a burst? If you're very, very quick on your release, it will fire only one round. It's just a mechanical dingus that allows you to pull the trigger a second (and subsequent) time at the cyclic rate if you're still applying force on the trigger. It does not necessarily fire a burst. |
| Thinking about taking a dremel to a new disconnector. I don’t really want to buy a new 3 position regulator for my other rifles and would rather just swap the dingus over each time. Seems more efficient and saves some money. I already have the Colt auto trigger and based upon this thread, the open back is all that’s needed besides modifying the disconnector. Do I have that right? Maybe some slight adjustments to the hammer. |
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Originally Posted By crimsonraider23: Thinking about taking a dremel to a new disconnector. I don’t really want to buy a new 3 position regulator for my other rifles and would rather just swap the dingus over each time. Seems more efficient and saves some money. I already have the Colt auto trigger and based upon this thread, the open back is all that’s needed besides modifying the disconnector. Do I have that right? Maybe some slight adjustments to the hammer. That roughly seems to match my experience. It might not be a good idea to have multiple guns set up with a selector which can disable the disconnector. You'll be able to flip the switch over to the third position, which takes the disconnector out of the mechanical function, and you will probably have hammer follow if the dingus isn't installed. Not best practice. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: That roughly seems to match my experience. It might not be a good idea to have multiple guns set up with a selector which can disable the disconnector. You'll be able to flip the switch over to the third position, which takes the disconnector out of the mechanical function, and you will probably have hammer follow if the dingus isn't installed. Not best practice. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By crimsonraider23: Thinking about taking a dremel to a new disconnector. I don’t really want to buy a new 3 position regulator for my other rifles and would rather just swap the dingus over each time. Seems more efficient and saves some money. I already have the Colt auto trigger and based upon this thread, the open back is all that’s needed besides modifying the disconnector. Do I have that right? Maybe some slight adjustments to the hammer. That roughly seems to match my experience. It might not be a good idea to have multiple guns set up with a selector which can disable the disconnector. You'll be able to flip the switch over to the third position, which takes the disconnector out of the mechanical function, and you will probably have hammer follow if the dingus isn't installed. Not best practice. I agree with this. |
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Originally Posted By fredrickfreeloader: Has anyone used a PSA 9mm upper with a Arizona Regulator? If so what model and what if any issues did you have to get it to run reliably? Thanks Well maybe ... A 3 pos drives my PSA/H&R DOE. 1. Getting it into the pocket is an interference fit that is remniscent of Field Stripping a Les Baer 1911 - tight enough that first time required brass punch and hammer. 2. Trimmed the Tungsten bolt weight. You did not ask but ... you will need a good buffer as well. |
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Originally Posted By RoninRider: Why not make the AZR in a mount similar to a DIAS? Seems like it would be easier and more stable to have the AZR index off the Upper rear lug and not that stupid upper receiver sear pocket that apparently none are in Mil-Spec (sarcasm) ? I am certain JD has an answer. You may be just the person that should ask him and report back. In all seriousness, JD's one man show will always struggle with artifacts that cling to a strictly defined milspec standard. He will eventually relax or raise pricing to cover more frequent QC checks and the increased tooling replacement frequency required to match the expectations he has placed on host firearms. |
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I don't know who Dogwood Armory is, but I don't think they understand the hell that is coming their way when JD finds out. It's a "2-stage" design, but I doubt he'll care. Attached File Attached File |
DECEIVE
INVEIGLE
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OBFUSCATE
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Originally Posted By redheadedmule: I don't know who Dogwood Armory is, but I don't think they understand the hell that is coming their way when JD finds out. It's a "2-stage" design, but I doubt he'll care. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/528930/dogwood_png-3756025.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/528930/kurt_png-3756026.JPG It's called a Kabuto and they're everywhere |
Stolen Firearm: Colt AR15, Serial # SP342380, 16" carbine. Stolen in California by Kevin Ayres, and taken to Missouri.
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Originally Posted By redheadedmule: How have I never heard of these? Don't recall seeing any threads about them. Bottom line is that more options are better and more FRTs in use is a good thing. Originally Posted By redheadedmule: Originally Posted By HK94dude: It's called a Kabuto and they're everywhere How have I never heard of these? Don't recall seeing any threads about them. Bottom line is that more options are better and more FRTs in use is a good thing. I've never tried one, but they seem to be hit and miss. I believe they use their own style safety as well, but I could be wrong |
Stolen Firearm: Colt AR15, Serial # SP342380, 16" carbine. Stolen in California by Kevin Ayres, and taken to Missouri.
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Originally Posted By HK94dude: I've never tried one, but they seem to be hit and miss. I believe they use their on style safety as well, but I could be wrong Yes and no to type of safety. User supplies milspec 3 pos for the style pictured. I also have another version which was supplied with a 3d printed craptastic 3 pos safety. |
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Having an odd issue with an AZR-15 MBT. The top thick lever was extremely hard to pop back and forth. Other AZR flips freely. It almost prevented it from fitting in the upper pocket as it would push the bgc back slightly because it had not traveled forward all the way. Lmt MRP 14.5” piston with mars-lower. It was difficult to run the charging handle, compared to the ar-15 a1 there was a bit of resistance as it would force the trigger forward and it would not return to battery unless it was dropped home from lock. The trigger was dead, almost as if it just could not travel far enough. Eventually after running the action I got the trigger to fall, it was a very poor ~10# pull. It then ran, but beat the fuck out of my finger. Now the lever flips back and forth and exactly like the other azr, the trigger pull may be a little heavy…but it is ok. Runs great. I stuck it in another mbt lower with a coupe uppers, no difficulty charging, but absolute dead trigger either way. I am using a radian talon but I first used a mil-spec selector and had the same issues. I will call JD if I need to…I like the guy but I honestly cannot understand him over the phone. Thought the mbts were supposed to be pretty drop-in… I assume I may need some clearancing on the trigger (would prefer to have both mbts set up to run off this azr)… The ones I have had before (arc-fire and azr-15 a1 were the definition of drop in)…little scared to fuck anything up, especially since the mbt seems to be the last stop on the “get the azr working” journey. Would appreciate any experience or advice. Btw…2pos FRTs sort of blow. I’m going to stick one mbt in my colt IAR, it makes sense there, and maybe the Colt Scw (since it’s supposed to be a pdw thing), but otherwise I think I will be staying with three position. Nice to be able to use the gun as normal. |
Here is how my AZR 3-positions works (or doesn't) in SEMI. Doing a function check works manually cycling it, but when you try a function check by releasing the bold from the bolt release with the trigger pulled it drops the hammer....which is exactly what happens on the range when firing in SEMI. BTW, this happens in multiple lowers and uppers. I even cut a new m16 disconnectors like the supplied disconnector with limited better results, but still does't work correctly. See vid. ![]() Arizona Regulator 3 Position Problem in SEMI |
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Originally Posted By RoninRider: Here is how my AZR 3-positions works (or doesn't) in SEMI. Doing a function check works manually cycling it, but when you try a function check by releasing the bold from the bolt release with the trigger pulled it drops the hammer....which is exactly what happens on the range when firing in SEMI. BTW, this happens in multiple lowers and uppers. I even cut a new m16 disconnectors like the supplied disconnector with limited better results, but still does't work correctly. See vid. All with the same lower? |
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Originally Posted By RoninRider: Here is how my AZR 3-positions works (or doesn't) in SEMI. Doing a function check works manually cycling it, but when you try a function check by releasing the bold from the bolt release with the trigger pulled it drops the hammer....which is exactly what happens on the range when firing in SEMI. BTW, this happens in multiple lowers and uppers. I even cut a new m16 disconnectors like the supplied disconnector with limited better results, but still does't work correctly. See vid. Check your disconnector spring is installed properly with the wider end pushed down into the trigger. A missing or upside-down disconnector spring can cause doubling even with a regular semi-auto trigger. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: snipped (expand quote) Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Originally Posted By Wangstang: Originally Posted By RoninRider: BTW, this happens in multiple lowers and uppers. All with the same lower? snipped (expand quote) Sorry, first read through my brain read that as tried with multiple uppers, didn't see the lowers listed to. |
| Everything is installed correctly and checked in triplet. It just doesn't work as designed. Nothing modified except the disconnector trying to get it to work in SEMI. Supplied trigger and Hammer with the AZ Regulator installed and function check fine until you do it via bolt release. The system seems like it just gets jarred around too violently and cause the disconnector to release in SEMI. I have already tried adjusting the front of the disconnector more to hold the hammer longer, but to no avail. Recut a second disconnector. still didn't help. Semi seems to be a common problem with AZR 3-position. In FRT runs great. Switched out FCG also with new M16 Selector and trigger with Colt hammer... no dice to fix the problem. No resistance or dragging while cycling the bolt and selector. At this point I doubt anything will fix the issue. |
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Originally Posted By RoninRider: Everything is installed correctly and checked in triplet. It just doesn't work as designed. Nothing modified except the disconnector trying to get it to work in SEMI. Supplied trigger and Hammer with the AZ Regulator installed and function check fine until you do it via bolt release. Can you expound on this, apologies if you’ve already done so. |
Official Arizona Regulators triggers thread (Page 20 of 22)
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