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ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 26 of 28)
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: When you are working the trigger down like that, can this be checked doing a dry fire function check? Or do you need to live fire check this? I have had a couple that dry fire function test fine, but then during live fire will not run right. So do the dry fire function test to make sure it seems like it is working, then a live fire to verify. |
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V1 for $139.99 from Combat Armory. Extra 10% off with code FREEDOM10 https://www.combatarmory.com/arc-fire-trigger-ambi-kit/ |
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Originally Posted By mPisi: V1 for $139.99 from Combat Armory. Extra 10% off with code FREEDOM10 https://www.combatarmory.com/arc-fire-trigger-ambi-kit/ Thanks for the heads up! The code basically washes out the shipping cost. I didn’t see the mil style levers though. |
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Originally Posted By neight: Thanks for the heads up! The code basically washes out the shipping cost. I didn’t see the mil style levers though. If you need some, I have two sets of new ambi milspec V1 levers I am not using. They have the short right side levers. I'll make you or someone else a good deal. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: You can read my thread where I used one of the hydro buffers in my 9mm and I also tried one in 2 different 223's. The 9mm ended up working good with a recoil spring change, but the 223's I could not get to run with the hydro buffer. You can scroll down to post 37 to se where I tested them in the 223's. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/CMMG-fixed-ejector-kit-not-reliable-with-FRT/15-792108/ Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Has anyone got the arc fire to work with amphibian's recoil system? It consist of the following on the AR lower A5 length buffer tube like vltor or bcm's. Tubbs 556 AR flat wire spring Kynshot RB5007 hydraulic buffer Amphibian lives in Florida and he owns full auto so he doesn't use frts for those obvious reasons. Sorry if this has been asked already but l don't remember seeing it asked before in this thread. If anyone has any experience with this setup with the arc fire or any input on it please. Thanks, Mav You can read my thread where I used one of the hydro buffers in my 9mm and I also tried one in 2 different 223's. The 9mm ended up working good with a recoil spring change, but the 223's I could not get to run with the hydro buffer. You can scroll down to post 37 to se where I tested them in the 223's. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/CMMG-fixed-ejector-kit-not-reliable-with-FRT/15-792108/ I went to the range yesterday with Desert Quatro Lower, factory DD 12.5" upper, SSA-E trigger, AFv1, Kynshot 5007 buffer, tubbs flat spring, and had issues. It ran perfect in semi. 5.56 brass ejecting approximately 2 oclock. Steel cased 223 approx 3 oclock. Flipper to fast semi, and it would fire one round, followed by hammer sitting on a dimpled live round. So, I screwed the SiCo Osprey on, and it would fire a couple of 2 to 4 round burst, then then choke with dimpled live round in the chamber, both with brass 5.56 and steel .223. I tried a T2 (all I had with me), but it chocked on first round with and without can on in fast semi. It'll be a month before I can return to the range with a normal T3 buffer. |
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Originally Posted By tripntx: I went to the range yesterday with Desert Quatro Lower, factory DD 12.5" upper, SSA-E trigger, AFv1, Kynshot 5007 buffer, tubbs flat spring, and had issues. It ran perfect in semi. 5.56 brass ejecting approximately 2 oclock. Steel cased 223 approx 3 oclock. Flipper to fast semi, and it would fire one round, followed by hammer sitting on a dimpled live round. So, I screwed the SiCo Osprey on, and it would fire a couple of 2 to 4 round burst, then then choke with dimpled live round in the chamber, both with brass 5.56 and steel .223. I tried a T2 (all I had with me), but it chocked on first round with and without can on in fast semi. It'll be a month before I can return to the range with a normal T3 buffer. Sounds like you need a real H3 buffer with 3 sliding tungsten weights and an aluminum (not steel) body. Sorry if you already know this, but it is important that the weights slide inside the buffer. Also, it sounds like your upper is over gassed. |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: Sounds like you need a real H3 buffer with 3 sliding tungsten weights and an aluminum (not steel) body. Sorry if you already know this, but it is important that the weights slide inside the buffer. Also, it sounds like your upper is over gassed. Not a problem with repeating it. I have three new KawValley H3's, but it'll be a month before I can test it with one installed. |
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Originally Posted By tripntx: Not a problem with repeating it. I have three new KawValley H3's, but it'll be a month before I can test it with one installed. Originally Posted By tripntx: Originally Posted By georgeib: Sounds like you need a real H3 buffer with 3 sliding tungsten weights and an aluminum (not steel) body. Sorry if you already know this, but it is important that the weights slide inside the buffer. Also, it sounds like your upper is over gassed. Not a problem with repeating it. I have three new KawValley H3's, but it'll be a month before I can test it with one installed. Unfortunately, the Kaw Valley H3 buffers are steel bodied, with brass weights inside. It does not deliver the same dead blow effect that proper, aluminum bodied, tungsten cored buffers do. |
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Well I just got one of the V1’s from the Combat Armory sale yesterday. I think I need the shim kit, the lever seems to have excessive side to side play in the 3rd position and it’s not resetting the trigger when I do the dry fire test. I tried the trigger it came with, another mil spec trigger I had cut myself, and multiple different hammers. I emailed AS designs. We’ll see what they say. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Unfortunately, the Kaw Valley H3 buffers are steel bodied, with brass weights inside. It does not deliver the same dead blow effect that proper, aluminum bodied, tungsten cored buffers do. Well, that sucks, lol. They were listed as being tungsten when I ordered them. I'll have to check them out when I return home tomorrow. I might have one or two other H3 buffers to try. Sounds like I need to order more H3. 
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Originally Posted By tripntx: Well, that sucks, lol. They were listed as being tungsten when I ordered them. I'll have to check them out when I return home tomorrow. I might have one or two other H3 buffers to try. Sounds like I need to order more H3. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/Screenshot_2026-05-01_121201-3755836.png Originally Posted By tripntx: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Unfortunately, the Kaw Valley H3 buffers are steel bodied, with brass weights inside. It does not deliver the same dead blow effect that proper, aluminum bodied, tungsten cored buffers do. Well, that sucks, lol. They were listed as being tungsten when I ordered them. I'll have to check them out when I return home tomorrow. I might have one or two other H3 buffers to try. Sounds like I need to order more H3. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/Screenshot_2026-05-01_121201-3755836.png Okay, it looks like they make multiple models. Hopefully yours has tungsten weights. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Unfortunately, the Kaw Valley H3 buffers are steel bodied, with brass weights inside. It does not deliver the same dead blow effect that proper, aluminum bodied, tungsten cored buffers do. So far my KV H3 has done fine with 3 different uppers, a 10.3 and 16” 556 and a 16” 7.62x39 PSA upper. I’m away for a couple of days but I’ll do a magnet test on it when I get home. It’s a red body. If I have any issues I have a couple of the Colt H3’s. |
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Originally Posted By tripntx: Well, that sucks, lol. They were listed as being tungsten when I ordered them. I'll have to check them out when I return home tomorrow. I might have one or two other H3 buffers to try. Sounds like I need to order more H3. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/Screenshot_2026-05-01_121201-3755836.png That’s the same one I bought when I ordered my asd. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Okay, it looks like they make multiple models. Hopefully yours has tungsten weights. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By tripntx: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Unfortunately, the Kaw Valley H3 buffers are steel bodied, with brass weights inside. It does not deliver the same dead blow effect that proper, aluminum bodied, tungsten cored buffers do. Well, that sucks, lol. They were listed as being tungsten when I ordered them. I'll have to check them out when I return home tomorrow. I might have one or two other H3 buffers to try. Sounds like I need to order more H3. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/Screenshot_2026-05-01_121201-3755836.png Okay, it looks like they make multiple models. Hopefully yours has tungsten weights. The red body ones were tungsten and aluminum. It appears that they are now only offering the new steel and brass ones. Weight appears to be the same but who knows on performance but it looks like not. So buyer beware and make sure if you get one it is the red body one. |
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Standard v1 trigger setup. Lower: FN M16 with standard carbine spring and Colt H2 buffer. Upper: Colt 6933 (11.5") w/SureFire SOCOM MINI2. 100 rounds in varous 20rd mags (PMag, Lancer, Colt, Okay). No problems whatsover. Barrel heats up pretty quick on this setup. |
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Decided to go ahead and trim up a G trigger I have (SSA-E). Just needs a touch of cold bluing. Need to order the lever. I'll get the milspec levers since I missed the giveaway.   
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"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
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Originally Posted By ridinshotgun: The red body ones were tungsten and aluminum. It appears that they are now only offering the new steel and brass ones. Weight appears to be the same but who knows on performance but it looks like not. So buyer beware and make sure if you get one it is the red body one. The red KVP's i bought a while back said 5.4 oz tungsten buffer on the package. I'd be pretty disappointed if they weren't tungsten. I have them a spares so I haven't used them. . |
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Originally Posted By mPisi: V1 for $139.99 from Combat Armory. Extra 10% off with code FREEDOM10 https://www.combatarmory.com/arc-fire-trigger-ambi-kit/ |
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Originally Posted By Zhukov: If I have one of the original Hoffman-style SS kits installed: Do I need to replace the trigger or can I just put in the safety selector from the V1 unit and it should run? I think the install video said that the cut triggers are interchangeable... Originally Posted By Zhukov: Originally Posted By mPisi: V1 for $139.99 from Combat Armory. Extra 10% off with code FREEDOM10 https://www.combatarmory.com/arc-fire-trigger-ambi-kit/ Correct, your cut trigger will work properly with a V1 ARC-Fire. |
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Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: Well I just got one of the V1’s from the Combat Armory sale yesterday. I think I need the shim kit, the lever seems to have excessive side to side play in the 3rd position and it’s not resetting the trigger when I do the dry fire test. I tried the trigger it came with, another mil spec trigger I had cut myself, and multiple different hammers. I emailed AS designs. We’ll see what they say. What would excessive play be? I have a (to me) significant side to side play of the lever. Runs like a top but I have always wondered if the slack was intentional or not. |
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New ARC-Fire V1 user. I think this is my favorite FRT now. So easy to work with. Attached File |
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Got my @Jeeps-And-Guns safety lever in the mail today!!! Thanks man much appreciated!! I’ll be putting my mk18 together in the coming weeks. Think I’ll just try the supplied trigger for now. Mainly because I won’t have time to go fool with dialing it in. Unless there’s an off the shelf option. |
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Has anyone else experience the following w/ the V1 ARC? I'm using the included trigger and the same standard hammer I used with my other V1 ARC prior to mating that one w/ a SSA-E. Safe position tests fine with and without an upper on it. Position 3 tests fine with and without an upper on it (including live fire). Position 2 USUALLY tests fine with and without an upper (including live fire). Probably one out of ~50 times when flipping to position 2, the hammer will not drop. It feels as though the lever is not forward even though it is visibly forward (without upper on it). I have encountered this both with and without an upper and did have it happen once during live fire today. Flipping the selector to another position and then back seems to resolve it but this is a little unnerving. I have not seen this with my other V1 ARC (with included trigger or now with the SSA-E), Disruptor, AZR A1, DTT FRT15L3, or RB 2 stage. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks! ETA: I can now replicate it reliably. It only happens when going from position 3 back to position 2. Weird. ETA 2: I believe I have corrected the issue by adding one of the tiny shims mentioned earlier in this thread. |
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Not sure if this could help you FordsKA— I just got my Maxim PDX SD to run with a G$, blocker and V1 ARC. Since it is an SCW carrier and buffer it (the buffer which rides inside part of the carrier) was pressing the lever too far forward. When you pulled the trigger it would not fire. I removed 2.5mm of steel from the non captured buffer and now it’s perfect. |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: Has anyone else experience the following w/ the V1 ARC? I'm using the included trigger and the same standard hammer I used with my other V1 ARC prior to mating that one w/ a SSA-E. Safe position tests fine with and without an upper on it. Position 3 tests fine with and without an upper on it (including live fire). Position 2 USUALLY tests fine with and without an upper (including live fire). Probably one out of ~50 times when flipping to position 2, the hammer will not drop. It feels as though the lever is not forward even though it is visibly forward (without upper on it). I have encountered this both with and without an upper and did have it happen once during live fire today. Flipping the selector to another position and then back seems to resolve it but this is a little unnerving. I have not seen this with my other V1 ARC (with included trigger or now with the SSA-E), Disruptor, AZR A1, DTT FRT15L3, or RB 2 stage. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks! ETA: I can now replicate it reliably. It only happens when going from position 3 back to position 2. Weird. I've seen similar when the main left side selector lever isn't fully seated and tightened down enough (or when the screw has loosened). If the selector is slipping a bit when changing positions, you need to realign it and tighten it down. It's definitely a good idea to Loctite it. I'm assuming you've checked for this, but worth a mention. |
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Originally Posted By neight: One you get these dialed in are they reliable? If my truck gun gets rattled around cause I’m on some forest road Will the fcg dis assemble itself? They’re quite durable and reliable. They will not wiggle themselves loose, no. My own truck gun has an ARC-Fire installed. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: New ARC-Fire V1 user. I think this is my favorite FRT now. So easy to work with. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523928/1000006660_jpg-3760016.JPG ARC-Fire test was a resounding success. I think this is my favorite FRT now.  ARC-Fire V1 in 16" BCM with Aimpoint |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: Has anyone else experience the following w/ the V1 ARC? I'm using the included trigger and the same standard hammer I used with my other V1 ARC prior to mating that one w/ a SSA-E. Safe position tests fine with and without an upper on it. Position 3 tests fine with and without an upper on it (including live fire). Position 2 USUALLY tests fine with and without an upper (including live fire). Probably one out of ~50 times when flipping to position 2, the hammer will not drop. It feels as though the lever is not forward even though it is visibly forward (without upper on it). I have encountered this both with and without an upper and did have it happen once during live fire today. Flipping the selector to another position and then back seems to resolve it but this is a little unnerving. I have not seen this with my other V1 ARC (with included trigger or now with the SSA-E), Disruptor, AZR A1, DTT FRT15L3, or RB 2 stage. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks! ETA: I can now replicate it reliably. It only happens when going from position 3 back to position 2. Weird. Originally Posted By fordkicksass: Has anyone else experience the following w/ the V1 ARC? I'm using the included trigger and the same standard hammer I used with my other V1 ARC prior to mating that one w/ a SSA-E. Safe position tests fine with and without an upper on it. Position 3 tests fine with and without an upper on it (including live fire). Position 2 USUALLY tests fine with and without an upper (including live fire). Probably one out of ~50 times when flipping to position 2, the hammer will not drop. It feels as though the lever is not forward even though it is visibly forward (without upper on it). I have encountered this both with and without an upper and did have it happen once during live fire today. Flipping the selector to another position and then back seems to resolve it but this is a little unnerving. I have not seen this with my other V1 ARC (with included trigger or now with the SSA-E), Disruptor, AZR A1, DTT FRT15L3, or RB 2 stage. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks! ETA: I can now replicate it reliably. It only happens when going from position 3 back to position 2. Weird. Originally Posted By HKH: Not sure if this could help you FordsKA— I just got my Maxim PDX SD to run with a G$, blocker and V1 ARC. Since it is an SCW carrier and buffer it (the buffer which rides inside part of the carrier) was pressing the lever too far forward. When you pulled the trigger it would not fire. I removed 2.5mm of steel from the non captured buffer and now it’s perfect. Originally Posted By krdt: I've seen similar when the main left side selector lever isn't fully seated and tightened down enough (or when the screw has loosened). If the selector is slipping a bit when changing positions, you need to realign it and tighten it down. It's definitely a good idea to Loctite it. I'm assuming you've checked for this, but worth a mention. Thanks for the replies, guys. I believe I have fixed it. Last night it occurred to me that I still had a couple of the tiny shims that @HKH was kind enough to send me last year so I decided to try that tonight. It seems that fixed it completely. I've got the latest application of blue loctite setting up on it as we speak so I will test the shit out of it over the next week and confirm that did it. To make sure it was not the lever being off as was suggested, I removed and re-installed it a couple times prior to adding the shim and the problem persisted. Thanks again for the suggestions! |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: They’re quite durable and reliable. They will not wiggle themselves loose, no. My own truck gun has an ARC-Fire installed. So the FRT has evolved beyond "range toy" status if ELittlefield is using one in a gun he might need in a pinch. Is anybody else assigning AS Designs' Arc-Fire FRTs to a working role, e.g., truck gun? SHTF gun? Home defense gun? I am just curious whether they have "graduated" and are deemed reliable enough now for work. PS - "Home defense" gun does not mean that you are going to use the third position fast semi to dump 30 rounds in the guy kicking down your door, but the regular semi selector is still there. |
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Originally Posted By Malum-Prohibitum: So the FRT has evolved beyond "range toy" status if ELittlefield is using one in a gun he might need in a pinch. Is anybody else assigning AS Designs' Arc-Fire FRTs to a working role, e.g., truck gun? SHTF gun? Home defense gun? I am just curious whether they have "graduated" and are deemed reliable enough now for work. PS - "Home defense" gun does not mean that you are going to use the third position fast semi to dump 30 rounds in the guy kicking down your door, but the regular semi selector is still there. Originally Posted By Malum-Prohibitum: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: They’re quite durable and reliable. They will not wiggle themselves loose, no. My own truck gun has an ARC-Fire installed. So the FRT has evolved beyond "range toy" status if ELittlefield is using one in a gun he might need in a pinch. Is anybody else assigning AS Designs' Arc-Fire FRTs to a working role, e.g., truck gun? SHTF gun? Home defense gun? I am just curious whether they have "graduated" and are deemed reliable enough now for work. PS - "Home defense" gun does not mean that you are going to use the third position fast semi to dump 30 rounds in the guy kicking down your door, but the regular semi selector is still there. I'm waiting on a couple parts and mine will. Across 4 FRTs in 7 AR15s, I've only had a handful of issues and that was related to products not designed to work together or the AZR being finicky with reciever geometry. In stock configuration, zero issues over thousands of rounds. |
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Originally Posted By Malum-Prohibitum: So the FRT has evolved beyond "range toy" status if ELittlefield is using one in a gun he might need in a pinch. Is anybody else assigning AS Designs' Arc-Fire FRTs to a working role, e.g., truck gun? SHTF gun? Home defense gun? I am just curious whether they have "graduated" and are deemed reliable enough now for work. PS - "Home defense" gun does not mean that you are going to use the third position fast semi to dump 30 rounds in the guy kicking down your door, but the regular semi selector is still there. My defensive rifles have ARC V1s in them, once I can put a few hundred more rounds into them I'll trust the FRT function fully. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: Yes, have it on mine. I understand the technical part, and how it works, and I’m very comfortable with it. Worst case is a lever breaks (unlikely) and I’ll have 2 semi positions. Hmmm - I’m not sure that’s the worst case, as anyone who’s had a primer fall into their trigger mechanism will attest. I’m not saying FRT on a fighting rifle is a good idea or a bad idea… just be clear-eyed about the pros vs. the cons. |
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Originally Posted By Malum-Prohibitum: So the FRT has evolved beyond "range toy" status if ELittlefield is using one in a gun he might need in a pinch. Is anybody else assigning AS Designs' Arc-Fire FRTs to a working role, e.g., truck gun? SHTF gun? Home defense gun? I am just curious whether they have "graduated" and are deemed reliable enough now for work. PS - "Home defense" gun does not mean that you are going to use the third position fast semi to dump 30 rounds in the guy kicking down your door, but the regular semi selector is still there. Originally Posted By Malum-Prohibitum: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: They’re quite durable and reliable. They will not wiggle themselves loose, no. My own truck gun has an ARC-Fire installed. So the FRT has evolved beyond "range toy" status if ELittlefield is using one in a gun he might need in a pinch. Is anybody else assigning AS Designs' Arc-Fire FRTs to a working role, e.g., truck gun? SHTF gun? Home defense gun? I am just curious whether they have "graduated" and are deemed reliable enough now for work. PS - "Home defense" gun does not mean that you are going to use the third position fast semi to dump 30 rounds in the guy kicking down your door, but the regular semi selector is still there. I would have no qualms about putting an ARC-Fire in my own home defense rifle, but I refrain because I don't want that gun being taken into evidence, shown to a jury of my "peers." Almost every other AR I own has an FRT at this point, and the only ones I wouldn't trust fully to defend myself are the rimfires. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: It’s a milspec trigger, same thing can happen with that though…that’s not a con of frt specifically Yep- I have had that happen- not a good thing to have happen when benching a rifle to throw a rough zero on it before issuing it. Blown primer was all it took to jam the trigger group and cause a burst. That being said, my personal thought is that an FRT will add some level of additional failure points to the setup, how much depends on your gun, which FRT you have, etc. But a normal F/A fcg also has similar additional failure points, and I never needed to fix any of those in our issued guns that were auto capable- just wasn’t a normal thing that failed. We will find out in a few years which FRT designs hold up longer than others, but even when new some designs have a lot more teething issues. The original Hoffman SS is likely the best (simplest) for reliability, just keep it well lubricated. I tend to think the Arc Fire is probably the one I would trust first after that. |
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Originally Posted By tac556: Yep- I have had that happen- not a good thing to have happen when benching a rifle to throw a rough zero on it before issuing it. Blown primer was all it took to jam the trigger group and cause a burst. That being said, my personal thought is that an FRT will add some level of additional failure points to the setup, how much depends on your gun, which FRT you have, etc. But a normal F/A fcg also has similar additional failure points, and I never needed to fix any of those in our issued guns that were auto capable- just wasn’t a normal thing that failed. We will find out in a few years which FRT designs hold up longer than others, but even when new some designs have a lot more teething issues. The original Hoffman SS is likely the best (simplest) for reliability, just keep it well lubricated. I tend to think the Arc Fire is probably the one I would trust first after that. Originally Posted By tac556: Originally Posted By jclendineng: It’s a milspec trigger, same thing can happen with that though…that’s not a con of frt specifically Yep- I have had that happen- not a good thing to have happen when benching a rifle to throw a rough zero on it before issuing it. Blown primer was all it took to jam the trigger group and cause a burst. That being said, my personal thought is that an FRT will add some level of additional failure points to the setup, how much depends on your gun, which FRT you have, etc. But a normal F/A fcg also has similar additional failure points, and I never needed to fix any of those in our issued guns that were auto capable- just wasn’t a normal thing that failed. We will find out in a few years which FRT designs hold up longer than others, but even when new some designs have a lot more teething issues. The original Hoffman SS is likely the best (simplest) for reliability, just keep it well lubricated. I tend to think the Arc Fire is probably the one I would trust first after that. Oh yeah, that reminds me. Those of you unfamiliar, watch an animation or a video sometime of how an M16 auto mechanism works. It is at LEAST as bad as an ARC-Fire in terms of crudeness, and added failure points. And you just don't read about failures of the M16 or M4 in that way. The vast majority of gun failures are bad magazines, probably followed by lack of lubrication, probably followed by ammunition failure like blown/popped primers or brass failures. Internal fire control group failures, I bet that doesn't crack the top 5. |
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Originally Posted By Smokehouse_83: I installed my v1 in a g$ lower with the supplied Milspec trigger(for now) and I’m having a weird issue. The safety is extremely hard to turn. Anyone else had this issue? Clutch is probably installed 180 degrees off around the shaft. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Clutch is probably installed 180 degrees off around the shaft. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Smokehouse_83: I installed my v1 in a g$ lower with the supplied Milspec trigger(for now) and I’m having a weird issue. The safety is extremely hard to turn. Anyone else had this issue? Clutch is probably installed 180 degrees off around the shaft. My safety divot was really sharp and required break-in. I don't have a picture, but it took a sliver off my safety detent and took a few dozen uses then pulling and cleaning that metal sliver out. |
Why is the sky blue?
What makes the green grass grow?
What makes the green grass grow?
Took the BCM with ARC-Fire back out but with an ACOG. This is basically my go-to rifle, now.  ARC-Fire V1 in 16" BCM with ACOG Attached File |
Why is the sky blue?
What makes the green grass grow?
What makes the green grass grow?
Joined:
Nov 2025
Posts:
55
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USA
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Im curious how you know you need a shim. I have 4 Arc-Fires, 3 from batch 1 and 1 from batch 2. I have the same wiggle back and forth I see in the pictures a few pages back, photo of where it resets and video of wiggle here: https://imgur.com/a/7C2H0mm Also, I searched this thread a bit and could not find where y'all are buying these shims! Edit. Also, anyone use MAS Defense H3 buffers before? Good price and appear to be aluminum so I bought some to test with. Like half the price of other H3s so maybe there’s a catch. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: Im curious how you know you need a shim. I have 4 Arc-Fires, 3 from batch 1 and 1 from batch 2. I have the same wiggle back and forth I see in the pictures a few pages back, photo of where it resets and video of wiggle here: https://imgur.com/a/7C2H0mm Also, I searched this thread a bit and could not find where y'all are buying these shims! Edit. Also, anyone use MAS Defense H3 buffers before? Good price and appear to be aluminum so I bought some to test with. Like half the price of other H3s so maybe there’s a catch. https://www.mcmaster.com/99040A408/ From my understanding, the side to side wiggle is normal. From what I gather the shim is something to do with the timing, and if it will not run, you may need the shim. However I have one and that is not running, so I ordered the shims and when I installed it, it causes my selector to stick and lock up. |
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 26 of 28)
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