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Posted: 6/1/2015 10:28:00 PM EDT
| Can someone point me to some information either here or elsewhere on a gong target for an AR. I tried the search feature but obviously it didn't work for me. |
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These look pretty nice to me. I just need to get the funds together to get one.
https://shootingtargets7.com/store/gongs/1-2.html |
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For the smaller targets, a shepherds hook works perfectly...
Lowe's - Shepherd's Hook
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For the smaller targets, a shepherds hook works perfectly... Lowe's - Shepherd's Hook http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/093432/093432890349lg.jpg Those are the absolute shit for smaller pistol targets. I love them. |
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Any suggestions on how to attach this https://shootingtargets7.com/store/gongs/1-2/12-ar500-gong-2.html to a shepherd's hook? Couple examples here; https://shootingtargets7.com/store/customer-submitted ProTip, for heavier targets, just use 2 hooks, still cheaper than other solutions. |
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Any suggestions on how to attach this https://shootingtargets7.com/store/gongs/1-2/12-ar500-gong-2.html to a shepherd's hook? Quoted:
Any suggestions on how to attach this https://shootingtargets7.com/store/gongs/1-2/12-ar500-gong-2.html to a shepherd's hook? A hook isn't ideal for a two-hole target. Two holes imply weight and/ or instability when struck. If possible I would apply two separate suspended mounting locations. If you hit that with a central-single mounting point, it will swing wildly when struck. If you want to apply fast follow-up shots, a swinging target is not only more difficult to hit, but it provides different angles when struck. This can be dangerous as these angles are unpredictable and may send fragmented metal in unpredictable directions. Quoted:...
ProTip, for heavier targets, just use 2 hooks, still cheaper than other solutions. While cheaper, I've found that the rear support can brace the steel plate when fast follow-up shots are applied. This is especially dangerous when firing on targets that have been placed uphill from the shooter. My recommendation would be to suspend it under a bar to create a back/ downward-tilting hinging effect when struck; this makes affected fragmenting areas more predictable and also slows down the twisting/ bucking effect of lighter targets as they settle down after being hit. I use strips of truck tire rubber found on the side of the road, they don't make ragged holes (rubber is self-healing) and frag skips off the front. Some folks use heavy canvas fire hose strips, but I've found that the cloth crates a snagging effect that degrades faster than rubber. If you want photos of what I use, let me know. |
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Quoted: Sweet! Any ideas on how to build a stand? I'm thinking wood and chains perhaps. Not sure of how large,etc. the chains would have to be. It also needs to be able to be broken down easily as I have a 2007 Jeep that it will have to be transported in. I really need to update this, but here's a writeup I did on stands a while back. I've come up with some bonehead simple brackets for a-frames since then. /Don't tell anyone, but I'm the MOA guy. |
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Can someone point me to some information either here or elsewhere on a gong target for an AR. I tried the search feature but obviously it didn't work for me. I just took a look at these. I like the design features that I point out in the video. The steel is sloped slightly downward, and the 2x4 brackets allow you to put a little space between the gongs and the legs so you do not ding them up as bad. Good company to deal with. I am not affiliated with them, just a recent customer. https://youtu.be/t8jdHws7sPo |
| I use the shepherds hooks, for heavy targets I drive a T post (barbed wire fence post) in the ground and wire the shepherds hook to it. Some one mentioned that the hook can angle the target in such a way that a shooter, shooting uphill might be in danger. Who shoots up hill? Anyone wanting target ideas should what hickok45's youtube channel, search range tour #2. |
| I bought the basic set of brackets to build a target frame from these guys., Here's their gong setup though. Price is real reasonable to me, and all you do is supply a couple of pieces of wood. Everything uses bolts to clamp the wood in place so with a rachet or little impact driver you could put it up and take it down in like 2 min. You can also make it as tall or short as you like. I'm real happy with thier brackets. |
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12" 2-pack, $80 shipped is best unless you have other requirements. My go-to for static steel. I like the 12" size for reticle subtension when using magnified optics. http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t457/dead-drop/steelstand_zps7545e516.jpg fuggit, just ordered four more. Quoted:
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http://www.magnumtarget.com/product-category/gong/ Great product, good pricing and free shipping. 12" 2-pack, $80 shipped is best unless you have other requirements. My go-to for static steel. I like the 12" size for reticle subtension when using magnified optics. http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t457/dead-drop/steelstand_zps7545e516.jpg fuggit, just ordered four more. Is that car tire? Curious what you used to slice it into strips lol Nice stand though bro, simple, cheap, easily taken down/built. Think I may copy you.
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Is that car tire? Curious what you used to slice it into strips lol Nice stand though bro, simple, cheap, easily taken down/built. Think I may copy you. ![]() Quoted:
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http://www.magnumtarget.com/product-category/gong/ Great product, good pricing and free shipping. 12" 2-pack, $80 shipped is best unless you have other requirements. My go-to for static steel. I like the 12" size for reticle subtension when using magnified optics. http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t457/dead-drop/steelstand_zps7545e516.jpg fuggit, just ordered four more. Is that car tire? Curious what you used to slice it into strips lol Nice stand though bro, simple, cheap, easily taken down/built. Think I may copy you. ![]() I really appreciate the kind words brother. I use those torn-up strips on the side of the highway that nobody cleans up. For cutting? Metal-cutting bandsaw yo. Just be ready for the sparks from cutting the belt (wire) material. You don't even really need it though. My brother wanted the same setup but he doesn't have a bandsaw. Hacksaw and some needle nose pliers and you should be good to go. Since he's not using powertools he says it takes about four beers to do a set of six pair. You can either drill the holes or be like my bro and use a MAPP torch and heat up an old screwdriver. Just don't do it after four beers. The rubber really rejects frag, I haven't found a peer for it. Even conveyor belt strips and firehose don't work as well. The holes are minimal and self-heal (resist tearing under weight), and splash basically bounces off. I can fit a dozen stand sets, as many 12" steel gongs, and the rest of my camping and shooting shit in the back of a Tacoma long bed. |
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I really appreciate the kind words brother. I use those torn-up strips on the side of the highway that nobody cleans up. For cutting? Metal-cutting bandsaw yo. Just be ready for the sparks from cutting the belt (wire) material. You don't even really need it though. My brother wanted the same setup but he doesn't have a bandsaw. Hacksaw and some needle nose pliers and you should be good to go. Since he's not using powertools he says it takes about four beers to do a set of six pair. You can either drill the holes or be like my bro and use a MAPP torch and heat up an old screwdriver. Just don't do it after four beers. The rubber really rejects frag, I haven't found a peer for it. Even conveyor belt strips and firehose don't work as well. The holes are minimal and self-heal (resist tearing under weight), and splash basically bounces off. I can fit a dozen stand sets, as many 12" steel gongs, and the rest of my camping and shooting shit in the back of a Tacoma long bed. Quoted:
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http://www.magnumtarget.com/product-category/gong/ Great product, good pricing and free shipping. 12" 2-pack, $80 shipped is best unless you have other requirements. My go-to for static steel. I like the 12" size for reticle subtension when using magnified optics. http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t457/dead-drop/steelstand_zps7545e516.jpg fuggit, just ordered four more. Is that car tire? Curious what you used to slice it into strips lol Nice stand though bro, simple, cheap, easily taken down/built. Think I may copy you. ![]() I really appreciate the kind words brother. I use those torn-up strips on the side of the highway that nobody cleans up. For cutting? Metal-cutting bandsaw yo. Just be ready for the sparks from cutting the belt (wire) material. You don't even really need it though. My brother wanted the same setup but he doesn't have a bandsaw. Hacksaw and some needle nose pliers and you should be good to go. Since he's not using powertools he says it takes about four beers to do a set of six pair. You can either drill the holes or be like my bro and use a MAPP torch and heat up an old screwdriver. Just don't do it after four beers. The rubber really rejects frag, I haven't found a peer for it. Even conveyor belt strips and firehose don't work as well. The holes are minimal and self-heal (resist tearing under weight), and splash basically bounces off. I can fit a dozen stand sets, as many 12" steel gongs, and the rest of my camping and shooting shit in the back of a Tacoma long bed. No prob brotha I think I'll definitely have to copy this, looks to be the cheapest method I've seen thus far, and I tend to not want to spend much money on targets. The tire thing makes perfect sense as the ideal material. Are your gong's AR500 plate? |
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Definitely cheaper options out there. This here is $111.50 to my door. I like how easy it is to break down and looks to be solid.
Another option would be to purchase the hangers and pipe supports from AR500-Targets, then supply your own gong/bolts/pipe legs. |
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Definitely cheaper options out there. This here is $111.50 to my door. I like how easy it is to break down and looks to be solid. Another option would be to purchase the hangers and pipe supports from AR500-Targets, then supply your own gong/bolts/pipe legs. MOA does the same, they have two flavors of stands that use pipe-conduit legs. One of them uses a 2x4 section for horizontal support, while nice for pistol, if I smacked that 2x4 cross-section with a rifle... it'd be toast. The other uses three different diameters for your choice of 1/2", 3/4", or 1" horizontal support. Or you could use a pair of 2x4 blocks, drill your own holes, and shove some rebar in there. |
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Quoted: MOA does the same, they have two flavors of stands that use pipe-conduit legs. One of them uses a 2x4 section for horizontal support, while nice for pistol, if I smacked that 2x4 cross-section with a rifle... it'd be toast. The other uses three different diameters for your choice of 1/2", 3/4", or 1" horizontal support. Or you could use a pair of 2x4 blocks, drill your own holes, and shove some rebar in there. Quoted: Quoted: Definitely cheaper options out there. This here is $111.50 to my door. I like how easy it is to break down and looks to be solid. Another option would be to purchase the hangers and pipe supports from AR500-Targets, then supply your own gong/bolts/pipe legs. MOA does the same, they have two flavors of stands that use pipe-conduit legs. One of them uses a 2x4 section for horizontal support, while nice for pistol, if I smacked that 2x4 cross-section with a rifle... it'd be toast. The other uses three different diameters for your choice of 1/2", 3/4", or 1" horizontal support. Or you could use a pair of 2x4 blocks, drill your own holes, and shove some rebar in there. |
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Rifle goes right through the 2x4 on edge. Quoted:
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Definitely cheaper options out there. This here is $111.50 to my door. I like how easy it is to break down and looks to be solid. Another option would be to purchase the hangers and pipe supports from AR500-Targets, then supply your own gong/bolts/pipe legs. MOA does the same, they have two flavors of stands that use pipe-conduit legs. One of them uses a 2x4 section for horizontal support, while nice for pistol, if I smacked that 2x4 cross-section with a rifle... it'd be toast. The other uses three different diameters for your choice of 1/2", 3/4", or 1" horizontal support. Or you could use a pair of 2x4 blocks, drill your own holes, and shove some rebar in there. Are you referring to the 2x4 crossbar for hanging? I've done that before and destroyed a 2x4 at some pretty extreme distances. That's why I prefer a doubled-up rebar crossbar support for hanging rifle targets. I've hit a rebar leg or support a few times and even though it gets chewed through a bit it's never been all the way through. This is not true for the top crossmember, probably since it's closer to the actual target. If I hit one, it might get damaged enough to bend under the weight of the target which is why I usually hang them with a second piece of rebar. I've never hit a rebar leg so hard that any of this happens, but others have when abusing my targets. Let me know if it's confusing, I've had a few beers. Or just hit me up on facebook messenger, or just go ahead and call a brother. |
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Quoted: Are you referring to the 2x4 crossbar for hanging? I've done that before and destroyed a 2x4 at some pretty extreme distances. That's why I prefer a doubled-up rebar crossbar support for hanging rifle targets. I've hit a rebar leg or support a few times and even though it gets chewed through a bit it's never been all the way through. This is not true for the top crossmember, probably since it's closer to the actual target. If I hit one, it might get damaged enough to bend under the weight of the target which is why I usually hang them with a second piece of rebar. I've never hit a rebar leg so hard that any of this happens, but others have when abusing my targets. Let me know if it's confusing, I've had a few beers. Or just hit me up on facebook messenger, or just go ahead and call a brother. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Definitely cheaper options out there. This here is $111.50 to my door. I like how easy it is to break down and looks to be solid. Another option would be to purchase the hangers and pipe supports from AR500-Targets, then supply your own gong/bolts/pipe legs. MOA does the same, they have two flavors of stands that use pipe-conduit legs. One of them uses a 2x4 section for horizontal support, while nice for pistol, if I smacked that 2x4 cross-section with a rifle... it'd be toast. The other uses three different diameters for your choice of 1/2", 3/4", or 1" horizontal support. Or you could use a pair of 2x4 blocks, drill your own holes, and shove some rebar in there. Are you referring to the 2x4 crossbar for hanging? I've done that before and destroyed a 2x4 at some pretty extreme distances. That's why I prefer a doubled-up rebar crossbar support for hanging rifle targets. I've hit a rebar leg or support a few times and even though it gets chewed through a bit it's never been all the way through. This is not true for the top crossmember, probably since it's closer to the actual target. If I hit one, it might get damaged enough to bend under the weight of the target which is why I usually hang them with a second piece of rebar. I've never hit a rebar leg so hard that any of this happens, but others have when abusing my targets. Let me know if it's confusing, I've had a few beers. Or just hit me up on facebook messenger, or just go ahead and call a brother. Yeah, the 2x4 crossbar. With it on face, which is what meant to write, rifle round just go right through with almost no damage. That's how all the uprights were at CWW, and how I do all my designs, Even with poorly aimed machine gun fire, spall take the 2x4s apart, not woody the woodpecker like hits all over the place. |
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I just got some Shooting Targets 7 and did a video review. I like the mounting systen and the legs that clamp on a 2x4. I will use the larger gongs for the AR but only shot the 4" ones with a 22lr because we were ar 25yrds for this video.
https://youtu.be/t8jdHws7sPo |
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