AR Sponsor
Posted: 2/10/2016 12:08:01 PM EDT
| I have some 601 pistol grips with lime green oxidized paint on them. I have read on this forum, several times, about using "mother's mag wheel polish" to remove the oxidation, and return the green paint to its original color. So, I purchased said polish, and have spent at least an hour polishing my grip, even losing some of its paint in the process. If anything, the paint now looks MORE oxidized. What am I doing wrong? |
|
I got nothing other than perhaps your paint is just too far gone?
I have used it on several 601 grips, one 601 hand guard and stock and worked like a charm. I have even used it trying to make some shiny mottled black furniture by sanding and then polishing. Are you doing it by hand or with a machine? |
|
I've done a few that looked as faded as yours (mine had more original paint) with canola oil and they always came out looking much closer to original color. Polish generally takes off too much of original finish as you are aware.
You DON'T want to use Vegetable oils. Good to know. Been doing it for years and never had a problem. I generally wash it off after application with mild soap after color is restored, possibly why I've never observed any rancidity or other problems down the road. |
|
Yeah, Mineral Oil is Petroleum based.
And it's Petroleum based oils that DON'T go rancid, like organic based oils. You DON'T want to use Vegetable oils. The paint applied is an oil based paint. It hasn't harmed the plastic beneath. Middle Grip here: 
After Cleaning/Greasing: 
It hasn't gone rancid. It hasn't eaten through the paint or the plastic. |
|
Quoted: Mineral Oil IS A PETROLEUM BASED OIL. Quoted: Quoted: Id use a non petroleum based oil. I like Mineral Oil because it doesnt get rancid or attack your paint or plastic. Mineral Oil IS A PETROLEUM BASED OIL.  |
|
Quoted:
I stand corrected, a couple times. My sincere apologies. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Id use a non petroleum based oil. I like Mineral Oil because it doesnt get rancid or attack your paint or plastic. Mineral Oil IS A PETROLEUM BASED OIL. No need to apologize, you just cornfused me, lol |
|
Quoted:
I've done a few that looked as faded as yours (mine had more original paint) with canola oil and they always came out looking much closer to original color. Polish generally takes off too much of original finish as you are aware. You DON'T want to use Vegetable oils. Good to know. Been doing it for years and never had a problem. I generally wash it off after application with mild soap after color is restored, possibly why I've never observed any rancidity or other problems down the road. I overstated things a bit. Veg Oil CAN go rancid. It doesn't mean it WILL. Most of the time, it should be fine, but generally, if you can, it's better to use a petroleum based oil for things like this. That's why you use Mineral Oil on cutting boards and such too. |
|
I don't know how aggressive the mag wheel stuff is, but I have always used an auto polishing (NOT RUBBING) compound that is extremely fine, and the Mothers wax buffing ball chucked in my drill press and it's always work very well. I don't press the part into the ball hard, just light touch. It does take some time so patience is a virtue.
I seem to remember other members also using WD40. |
AR Sponsor