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Posted: 4/24/2014 5:42:37 AM EDT
| I am trying to build an A1 Retro Rifle that is functional. I picked up an upper that has seen better days. It has a chrome chamber but not a chrome bore. (late 60's I think) the bore does not look great to me. I bought a Green Mountain barrel but am stuck on getting a Gas Block installed on it. I contacted several local gunsmiths and got a ball park quote of $250 to $350 to install a gas block. Is that a reasonable quote? Seems outrageous to me. If that is the going rate, would I be better off to dump the barrel and go shopping for a barrel with gas block already installed? I seem to recall seeing some priced for about what these guys want for the installation. I would like the 1:12 twist if I can find it. I am new to the "build it yourself" mode and any advice would be appreciated. |
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Good Morning OldAFVet and welcome to the retro forum. In here you will find information to nurture your love for old stuff, empty your wallet and find yourself far down the rabbit hole...
To answer your question I would contact John Thomas - jntmjt1 - here on AF15.com. He does stellar work at a very reasonable cost. His turn around is somewhat slow...sometimes it takes almost 1 full day to get it back in the mail to you 
You will gather some interest with your older barrel. Try to post up some pictures showing any and all barrel markings. Enjoy and when your build is done please remember the rules...post pictures so we can all ooh and awww over them! |
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I am attaching some pictures of the authentic (or pretty much so) M16 upper. I grabbed it because it had the duckbill flash suppressor which was the configuration I trained on and used in the late 60's and early 70's. When I got back to the world in 75 it seemed the 16's all had the new birdcage suppressors. I think this upper was refurbished or updated since the windage adjustment is a thumbwheel, I remember a disc with holes adjusted with the tip of a bullet. I have tried to show any proof marks I could find to show the barrel and upper receiver markings. http://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0113_zps15916529.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0125_zps7cb22aac.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0122_zps28041b60.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0121_zps633477dd.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0120_zps3e9b4603.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0119_zpse942ff7a.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0118_zps4228755e.jpghttp://i1366.photobucket.com/albums/r772/OldAFVet90/IMG_0117_zpsb7f8223d.jpg
Any information anyone can offer will be appreciated. |
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Quoted:
I grabbed it because it had the duckbill flash suppressor which was the configuration I trained on and used in the late 60's and early 70's. So, that's not a duckbill flash suppressor, it's the later straight 3-prong. Still correct for later pre-M16A1 transitional rifles, though. The duckbill has a profile more like this: (reproduction duckbill on the left, original colt/armalite duckbill on the right) 
The barrel as noted is a 70s contract spare, but has the correct profile and twist. If you're going for retro you'll probably want to replace the big target button forward assist with a more period-correct teardrop forward assist. The sight adjustment is a "rapidex knob", which is almost period-correct, but not military issue correct, so it's a definite aftermarket add-on. The original sight wheels are pretty available if you're looking to return it to a more orthodox retro configuration. |
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$200-250 is way too much. Sounds like you have this figured out. 1/2 of that is more like it. For $200 or more buy the fixture and do it yourself. Gonna need to ditch the rapidex, A-2 or modern port door and depending on the lower you use will either have to ditch the big head forward assist or possibly contact John about relieving it as it's not gonna clear or function on an A-2 lower worth a darn, not that you will ever need to use it.
Welcome to the wonderful world of retro builds. Sarcoinc has the correct windage drum and should have tear drop assist, if not , Numrich Gun Parts has the teardrop FA under M-16A-1 upper parts (you can switch your parts; pawl, spring, detent) and search Gunbroker under Colt AR-15 for seller Rodgravy for authentic port door (SP-1 is same, you want the rectangle pad) . Riflegear has repro port doors for less. Good luck. Sounds like your in the good hands people of retro Allstate JThomas. For an 80's build the upper isn't too far off of what was actually being used during that period. Throat usually gives up not the bore on M-16 barrels. I'd clean it (C MP C) real well and see how it does personally. If keyholing 55gr ammo or all over the place it's toast but it will still have value so don't get releived / bilked out of it for a little of nothing. If gonna give it away for a song I'll take it. |
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About the upper (if I'm wrong you'll know in a minute), it has an A2 port door, FSB pins are running the wrong way, old style large A2 FA.
At $250 you can buy the jig to install the FSB an have $100 left over. Shoot the old girl! OK, the price went up. This tool at $175. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_132/1300172_WTS__BRDE_FSB_Jigs.html I love mine! |
| I just got my Green Mountain Barrel back from JOHN THOMAS ( jntmjt1 - here on AF15.com) of RETRO ARMS WORKS who specializes in AR-15 rifles, but will accept other work. I could not be more satisfied with the job. He did great work, at an extremely reasonable price, AND turned the job around and had it on its way back to me the day he received it! And if that's not enough he's a veteran too. I can guarantee any parts I need or work I need done I will talk to him first. |
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Quoted:
Those prices do sound way to high. McKay and AR15barrels were only around $200. Just something i came across http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_109/492845_ar15barrells_com_feedback_and_outstanding_orders.html&page=1 |
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