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Posted: 5/25/2012 6:41:22 PM EDT
I bought this upper on Gunbroker figuring it was going to save me some time and money but it might of been a bad idea. I figured it would save me the time by providing some parts as the barrel which would get cut down, the ejector door and the forward assist plus the front sight. the kicker is it matches really well with my lower better than the other upper receiver I have. The problem is its the large pin upper which the seller didn't mention. What does the hive think is the best cost wise solution ? Return the upper if possible and eat 10% of the cost plus the shipping charges, send it to M60Joe and have the bushings pressed in or buy the bushings at Brownells and install them with some JB weld ?
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Buying the adapter would also work. Was Colt's plan anyway. Lot of SP-1 uppers on gunbroker that aren't advertised that way. Typical hindsight. I use a magnifier when buying off GB and ask questions. Answers will usually tell what kind of person you are dealing with. GB is not the best avenue but probably the easiest. Always lots of items for sale and many are priced waiting for the one special person. A few deals but just a few as a general rule. Probably the same as most everywhere today. As least you didn't drive 30 miles to the store to find out they never even had the on sale special in the warehouse. Owner of the race shop I worked at was famous for that also. Had to always lie when he did an advertisement. SBC aluminum heads complete for $600 or Crower crankshafts for $750. No backorders. Think it's what they taught him in college. Did get people in the door.
Besides lying, murdering and stealing, European trade goods almost made the native American extinct and without them our ancestors would never survived the first winter. Sad what one will do to buy or sell the special got to have item. I know I've impulse bought more than I ever should have and a few times got took. OP, be thankful you actually have a few coins to spend unlike the majority of Americans! JB weld the bushing in the upper and it's pretty much no longer a SP-1 but it will work. Make sure it's properly fitted and pins will push in and out before adding the glue. Can always hone but it may only fit one lower receiver when you are done. Carbine looks good. Nice stock. |
If I am understanding this right, you do not like the upper currently on your rifle (pictured) cause of the color match, but you have another receiver (the SP1) that does match really good. Correct? It was a little hard for me to follow, but maybe it is just too early in the morning for me. 
The way you have it set up in your picture looks great to me (minus the unaltered barrel), & I would leave it as is cause most M16 do not match perfectly anyway. In time & future builds you will learn to overlook a "perfect" color match just for the previously mentioned reason. Go with what you have there IMO. About the SP1 receiver, I'm betting you could get all your money back on it if the seller is worth a darn & cares about his feedback if you get my drift. It was misrepresented in the auction description from the sounds of it. It'd be worth a shot if you don't want to keep the receiver. |
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Buy this and install,,you don't NEED to epoxy it,it's suggested but not needed.Shoot it and see if you like it,,then epoxy it in.If you don't like it,then remove the bushing, sell the upper receiver for a small pin one..Just my 2 pennies.
Bushing> http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=288366755 BTW,,ETA,,I think she looks GREAT 
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If I am understanding this right, you do not like the upper currently on your rifle (pictured) cause of the color match, but you have another receiver (the SP1) that does match really good. Correct? It was a little hard for me to follow, but maybe it is just too early in the morning for me.
NO the upper on my lower, "the one in the picture", actually looks great ! The problem is the large holes. I'm going to email M60Joe and see if its not too expensive to install bushings and whats involved. 
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Look at the bushing M1snipper highlighted above. It's all you need to make the upper fit, and there's no need to have anything permanently fitted, epoxied in, no need to get m60Joe involved with fitting anything..
ETA: If you like the upper, then that's the one to use. |
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Look at the bushing M1snipper highlighted above. It's all you need to make the upper fit, and there's no need to have anything permanently fitted, epoxied in, no need to get m60Joe involved with fitting anything.. ETA: If you like the upper, then that's the one to use. Thanks I'll give it a try
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For the record,my original Palmetto CAR 15 actually had an SP1 large hole upper on it and I didn't even know it had a bushing till I came here.That sucker NEVER failed no matter what.I've said it before and say it again,,if you had layed that carbine on a table and put a .50BMG bullet next to it,,it would have found a way to eat it and spit it out just fine. Still have that upper,,but now the carbine has been rebuilt to an XM177E2 clone.
Oh and BTW,,I bought that CAR15 back in 1979,and didn't know the bushing was there till I joined here in 2008.....That should tell ya sumthin....
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Another vote for the bushing, also take off the big head A2 F/A and sell it for enough to cover the bushing and a tear drop F/A. Id keep the big round.. Its a more rare part and worth about twice what a teardrop should be. Some people might disagree but they are probably just trying to get a steal from you. |
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Id keep the big round FA
What he said! For most any AR-15 / M-16 work besides cutting, threading barrels, indexing a barrel extension or annodizing aluminum parts I sure wouldn't recommend paying anyone to do it. Personally I just strip down SP-1's for the parts I need or want and sell the rest. If I find one like M1sniper's my story will definately change but I like building my own and tuning them up. |
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Id keep the big round FA What he said! For most any AR-15 / M-16 work besides cutting, threading barrels, indexing a barrel extension or annodizing aluminum parts I sure wouldn't recommend paying anyone to do it. Personally I just strip down SP-1's for the parts I need or want and sell the rest. If I find one like M1sniper's my story will definately change but I like building my own and tuning them up. So far this has been my own build, this One will be the first complete one we're I also build up the upper after I receive the stamp. The debate is on if I'll take off the round hand guard and install the triangular one, the barrel has to be taken off and sent to ADCO and I'm going to send the parts to Tom for that retro look, the lower will be sent to Indent Services. |
| If you're doing a 607, I'd definitely do triangular HGs. FWIW I never thought I'd say this, but I prefer the way jhud does them - the fatter rear section rather than the forward part with a rear cap. I was sort of surprised at this, since I have small hands, but I like it. Buy the front cap from jhud and cut them yourself. 607's apparently were done both ways - they were experimenting I guess. Most of the pics you see are the front section - rear cap though, so if you are going for historically correct, I'd go that route. |
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If you're doing a 607, I'd definitely do triangular HGs. FWIW I never thought I'd say this, but I prefer the way jhud does them - the fatter rear section rather than the forward part with a rear cap. I was sort of surprised at this, since I have small hands, but I like it. Buy the front cap from jhud and cut them yourself. 607's apparently were done both ways - they were experimenting I guess. Most of the pics you see are the front section - rear cap though, so if you are going for historically correct, I'd go that route. Actually I emailed jhud a few weeks ago to ask him if he was still doing them.LOL |
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What I have in mind is use the middle section of the triangular hand guard. In other words not the typical slim front and not the "fatty" section but the middle part, how I'll go about this remains to be seen.  WOW, god luck with that. Some serious sheet metal skills will help on that project. I have been messing with making a end cap and without a press I'm not having much luck. |
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What I have in mind is use the middle section of the triangular hand guard. In other words not the typical slim front and not the "fatty" section but the middle part, how I'll go about this remains to be seen. WOW, god luck with that. Some serious sheet metal skills will help on that project. I have been messing with making a end cap and without a press I'm not having much luck. BRogers.. why are you making endcaps when TSI sells them? Anyone willing to do this work needs to be making midlength and carbine front caps, like the protoype 607. Thats is a wise use of time and energy.... |
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BRogers.. why are you making endcaps when TSI sells them?
While great advice I'm guessing he's like many of us who like do it the hard way. I broke out the sheet metal tools to hammer out a small shovel for the trap door on my home made pig cooker just this morning. Took about a hour to fabricate, drill and mount on a nice handle only to find out I should have measured it. Missed by 1/2". Door looked bigger than it actually was. Now I have a nice small shovel for the fireplace and I'm still using scrap sheet metal to shuffle the coals. Pig did turn out pretty darn good though. |
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BRogers.. why are you making endcaps when TSI sells them? While great advice I'm guessing he's like many of us who like do it the hard way. I broke out the sheet metal tools to hammer out a small shovel for the trap door on my home made pig cooker just this morning. Took about a hour to fabricate, drill and mount on a nice handle only to find out I should have measured it. Missed by 1/2". Door looked bigger than it actually was. Now I have a nice small shovel for the fireplace and I'm still using scrap sheet metal to shuffle the coals. Pig did turn out pretty darn good though. We can also turn down our own a1 front sight posts... But the originals cost 3$ each. |
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BRogers.. why are you making endcaps when TSI sells them? While great advice I'm guessing he's like many of us who like do it the hard way. I broke out the sheet metal tools to hammer out a small shovel for the trap door on my home made pig cooker just this morning. Took about an hour to fabricate and mount on a nice handle only to find out I should have measured it. Missed by 1/2". Now I have a nice small shovel for the fireplace and I'm still using scrap sheet metal to shuffle the coals. Pig did turn out pretty darn good though. Im working on a middy 607, pretty much a fab or die situation...I have a few ideas most involving welding or brazing since I don't have a press. Something to tinker with, you know. I don't really like the look of the fatties personally, the custom HG and rear cap are what kinda make the original 607 cool besides the stock of course. The fatties look like a regular old a1. To each his own I guess. Brent |
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Im working on a middy 607, pretty much a fab or die situation...I have a few ideas most involving welding or brazing since I don't have a press. Something to tinker with, you know.
You can use the TSI to make a skinny middy. The OD of the rear cap is just about 1 layer too small for the cutdown h/g. Use some h/g trims to make a lip to fit under the cap. This will make the h/g and cap flush with eachother. 
IF i can find someone willing to do the work, I want to have a die made for the following caps. -front 607 carbine, proto style -front 607 midlength, protostyle -rear 607 midlength, normal style. It may or may not be a good use of my time and $$. The things need to cost 15-25$ each.. for the reason that people DIY if it cost too much... This very conversation proves that fact
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