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Posted: 5/25/2012 5:49:15 AM EDT
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Ok, who knows the port size of a CAR length barrel?
This damn carbine is a one shot wonder, the tube had some slop when inserting it into the FSB. When I removed it there was carbon scoring all the way around telling me there wasn't a proper seal. After fixing that glitch the thing still won't run. Things I've checked: *Gas key is staked & pressure tested *Replaced gas tube & FSB, no leaks I've compared a mid length port hole to the CAR & the CAR comes up much smaller diameter. (I know Apples & Oranges) So what have I missed? Thoughts & Opinions welcomed. |
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I use a .082" port for 12.5" XM177E2 barrels. ETA: the standard port for 16" CAR barrels is generally around .062" ETA again: found this in the archives For 5.56mm Colt's gas port sizes are: * 10.5" - .093 * 11.5" - .081 * 14.5" - .063 * 16" - .063 Thanks again Mike, this is why I love the retro forum so much. |
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16" DD M4 barrel (CAR length impingement)
Port size .059 Standard Carbine Buffer & spring Function: throws the case but attempts to pick up the next round result in a damaged case. When bolt catch engages it does so at the front of the carrier & not in front of the bolt. IMO: Under Gassed |
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I would double check this by looking at the Mk18 thread - they were just talking about this, and suposedly the first ones were .077 and the LMT ones are like .088 - I'll have to go look at it myself, but if you want it to run right, I'd use Colt specs. Do you mean .77~.88 ? .077 & .088 would be too small to run anything. |
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I would double check this by looking at the Mk18 thread - they were just talking about this, and suposedly the first ones were .077 and the LMT ones are like .088 - I'll have to go look at it myself, but if you want it to run right, I'd use Colt specs. Do you mean .77~.88 ? .077 & .088 would be too small to run anything. He meant .077 since .75 would be 3/4 of an inch. |
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I would double check this by looking at the Mk18 thread - they were just talking about this, and suposedly the first ones were .077 and the LMT ones are like .088 - I'll have to go look at it myself, but if you want it to run right, I'd use Colt specs. Do you mean .77~.88 ? .077 & .088 would be too small to run anything. He meant .077 since .75 would be 3/4 of an inch. Doh! I stand corrected, it's that pesky zero & my need for glasses. (Really gotta pay attention to that damn zero, it's gotten me on more than one occasion) |
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More questions:
What ammo? Have you tried different mags? Lubrication? What clock position is your brass landing, if we're looking at the carbine from above? There is a lot of dwell time on a 16" CLGS, and they are often over-gassed as such, which can produce the same short-stroking because the gas impulse is so fast, it bleeds too quickly out the vent holes in the bolt carrier before enough inertia can be built up on the carrier itself to produce an ideal & full action stroke. That said, a CLGS gas port under .060" seems small to me, but could be a decision made to mitigate the problems commonly associated with the 16"/CLGS dilemma. |
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More questions: What ammo? PMC 55gr Have you tried different mags? AWB state 20rd pinned to 15, not a lot to choose from around here Lubrication? There's always time for lubrication
What clock position is your brass landing, if we're looking at the carbine from above? between 3 & 4 There is a lot of dwell time on a 16" CLGS, and they are often over-gassed as such, which can produce the same short-stroking because the gas impulse is so fast, it bleeds too quickly out the vent holes in the bolt carrier before enough inertia can be built up on the carrier itself to produce an ideal & full action stroke. That said, a CLGS gas port under .060" seems small to me, but could be a decision made to mitigate the problems commonly associated with the 16"/CLGS dilemma. DD is .059, Colt standard is .063, can't see .004 making that much of a difference |
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Gas block is properly aligned? I'm wondering if you have a parts kit .625" gas block on a DD lightweight barrel, if the port is lining up, or if there is too much play between the FSB and the gas block journal.
I would also double-check your gas key attachment to the carrier. When they come loose, it is often so subtle, that it slips past even a focused inspection. Is it an AR15 carrier or M16 carrier? Is there still that grind typical of a new BCG and fresh anodizing? If so, you could polish the raceways on the BCG, and use plenty of SLIP 2000 lube. If all of that looks ok, I would go to the range with some M193 first with 2 or 3 buffer weights on-hand, and see what happens, then start checking function with progressively heavier buffers. If all that fails, I'd start looking at opening the gas port. |
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opened it to .063
Gas block is properly aligned? I'm wondering if you have a parts kit .625" gas block on a DD lightweight barrel, if the port is lining up, or if there is too much play between the FSB and the gas block journal. Tube had some play inside the FSB so I used High Temp RTV to seal it up I would also double-check your gas key attachment to the carrier. When they come loose, it is often so subtle, that it slips past even a focused inspection. Tried 3 separate BCG Is it an AR15 carrier or M16 carrier? Is there still that grind typical of a new BCG and fresh anodizing? If so, you could polish the raceways on the BCG, and use plenty of SLIP 2000 lube. Freshly anodized by JT & a YM national match BCG If all of that looks ok, I would go to the range with some M193 first with 2 or 3 buffer weights on-hand, and see what happens, then start checking function with progressively heavier buffers. I think the PMC is not a good test subject, I'll scout around for some Mil-Spec ammo If all that fails, I'd start looking at opening the gas port. |
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That barrel is JUNK, it will never work right so you might as well send it to me and I'll use it for a shift lever in my little red convertible LOL!!
But.... What diameter is the barrel at the gas port, if it's .750 it should be bigger, my chart shows.070 - .086, or .063 -078 for the .625 barrel. One other thing I'd do is check how the area around the gas port looks, is the pattern even? If so that would indicate the FSB hole is properly aligned with the gas port. Something else to check is the gas tube to FSB alignment. Put the tube in and pin it and then run a drill shank up the hole in the FSB to see if the hole in the tube matches. If not, run the drill bit up there and align it. The worst 605 I ever did, the gas tube did not align with the FSB hole. Drove me nuts!!! Gotta run, my car is whining for me.:-) |
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My Rifle has a short-stroking problem - the gunsmith says it may be a gas port problem. What are the correct sizes for the gasport?
A: Courtesy of Rick McDowell of Competition Specialties, NRA Life, USPSA Life, Master ( 105 E. Cass, PO Box 451, Osceola, Iowa 50213 Phone: (800)369-4481 / (641)342-2011 ) I have an Extraction Problem, is this related? How can they be fixed? The below gas port dimensions are the ones that I have accumulated while working on AR's for years. When someone is having problems with short stroking and their gas port is not within the below ranges, that is usually the main problem. On individual rifles I have varied both bigger and smaller with port sizes, but these were definitely exceptions, or there was no other choice due to poor quality parts we were working with. For example; 11.5" barrel, .750" barrel diameter at the port, 3.850" from muzzle; Port should be approx. .086" to .094" in diameter. The smallest I have seen the port on these short barrels is .081" and it worked with some military ammo but not with some faster burning rate, commercial ammo. With the .086" port the military ammunition worked better but the commercial still wasn't getting enough pressure to work the carrier properly. The .094" port would work with both the high port pressure military ammo and low port pressure PMC ammo. Anything over .094" will cause short stroking/timing problems from too much pressure to the carrier and under .086" might cause short stroking for lack of pressure. To know if the port should be changed or not will depend on a few other things. Is the chamber narrower than it should be? Is the chamber rougher than it should be? Are the rings worn and allowing gas to blow by? Is the carrier key allowing gas to blow by? Etc., etc. Eliminate these variables first! With a smaller diameter barrel at the port, the gas port sizes will usually be a little smaller as well, given the barrel length is still the same. These are of my own compiling and may not be 'spec', but I was never able to find this 'spec', so I made a list of my own from known good shooting, reliable rifles. And just as important, from the unreliable rifles that worked fine after the gas port was opened up or made smaller. Don't let a gunsmith drill out a port because of a short stroking problem that you might have! More than likely it needs to go smaller, not larger. The Colt milspec gas port sizes are: 10.5" .093" 11.5" .081" 14" .063" 16" .063" |
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My Rifle has a short-stroking problem - the gunsmith says it may be a gas port problem. What are the correct sizes for the gasport? A: Courtesy of Rick McDowell of Competition Specialties, NRA Life, USPSA Life, Master ( 105 E. Cass, PO Box 451, Osceola, Iowa 50213 Phone: (800)369-4481 / (641)342-2011 ) I have an Extraction Problem, is this related? How can they be fixed? The below gas port dimensions are the ones that I have accumulated while working on AR's for years. When someone is having problems with short stroking and their gas port is not within the below ranges, that is usually the main problem. On individual rifles I have varied both bigger and smaller with port sizes, but these were definitely exceptions, or there was no other choice due to poor quality parts we were working with. For example; 11.5" barrel, .750" barrel diameter at the port, 3.850" from muzzle; Port should be approx. .086" to .094" in diameter. The smallest I have seen the port on these short barrels is .081" and it worked with some military ammo but not with some faster burning rate, commercial ammo. With the .086" port the military ammunition worked better but the commercial still wasn't getting enough pressure to work the carrier properly. The .094" port would work with both the high port pressure military ammo and low port pressure PMC ammo. Anything over .094" will cause short stroking/timing problems from too much pressure to the carrier and under .086" might cause short stroking for lack of pressure. To know if the port should be changed or not will depend on a few other things. Is the chamber narrower than it should be? Is the chamber rougher than it should be? Are the rings worn and allowing gas to blow by? Is the carrier key allowing gas to blow by? Etc., etc. Eliminate these variables first! With a smaller diameter barrel at the port, the gas port sizes will usually be a little smaller as well, given the barrel length is still the same. These are of my own compiling and may not be 'spec', but I was never able to find this 'spec', so I made a list of my own from known good shooting, reliable rifles. And just as important, from the unreliable rifles that worked fine after the gas port was opened up or made smaller. Don't let a gunsmith drill out a port because of a short stroking problem that you might have! More than likely it needs to go smaller, not larger. The Colt milspec gas port sizes are: 10.5" .093" 11.5" .081" 14" .063" 16" .063" I opened it from .059 to .063, if it does not run after the modification I will check other avenues before enlarging the port hole again. |
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That barrel is JUNK, it will never work right so you might as well send it to me and I'll use it for a shift lever in my little red convertible LOL!! But.... What diameter is the barrel at the gas port, if it's .750 it should be bigger, my chart shows.070 - .086, or .063 -078 for the .625 barrel. One other thing I'd do is check how the area around the gas port looks, is the pattern even? If so that would indicate the FSB hole is properly aligned with the gas port. Something else to check is the gas tube to FSB alignment. Put the tube in and pin it and then run a drill shank up the hole in the FSB to see if the hole in the tube matches. If not, run the drill bit up there and align it. The worst 605 I ever did, the gas tube did not align with the FSB hole. Drove me nuts!!! Gotta run, my car is whining for me.:-) Always the smartass, enjoy the holiday my friend. |
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More than likely it needs to go smaller, not larger.
Very possibly. Think I'd try some different ammo before I did much of anything to it. It works for many but PMC sure doesn't work for me (wouldn't personally shoot it except for free), but I usually also buy LC M-193 dirt cheap from those that it won't work for and most of these sellers have suppressed SBR's as a general rule. PMC has always gone bang but never been very consistent for me. Crap makes me start adjusting my sights. LC M-193 runs exceptional and is very accurate in most my slower twist AR's. I personally only own 16" and 20" barrels but did a few XM's back in the 90's. I'd offer to fix it for you but sounds like you have it handled. A little R&D is good for the soul sometimes. |
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Are you sure it's not a burred gas port hole?
To explain: I had recently purchased a brand new replacement dissipator barrel assembly & all seemed fine. Assembly went well, did a decent preliminary barrel-clean with bore brush & had good gas flow (manually checked with a compressed air flow meter), fired off the first round & instantly had troubles. rechecked gas flow with the flow meter and found there was a problem. Disassembled the barrel to find that apparently there was a burred piece of metal hanging on to the gas port hole inside the barrel & that after firing the first round, the bullet had pushed up the burr into the gas port hole, clogging it. I had to use a round jeweller's needle-file to remove the metal burr from the gas port hole. Then, reassembled it all & everything worked fine from then on. The burr was so small I didn't even notice it when I had looked down the bore at acceptance, but it doesn't take much at all to totally screw up the flow. Just something to maybe look at... Hope this helps. |
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For reliability purposes I will dump the C-Products mags & go with the PMAGs.
Wow on the ammo! Sounds like some good stuff. I use mostly Hornady bullets on my re-loads but usually heavier. I own and use $6 C-products mags for plinking. I'm really not a P-mag fan but own plenty and it sounds like a good move. Never had a problem shooting with either but personally never liked the fitment of either one and always have had to do a little work on them to meet my personal mag standards. I want them to install easily and drop easily and feed correctly in all my AR's and I don't believe I've ever purchased either mfg mag that would work in all (10) without some additional finesse. If ever a need an AR quickly I want to be able to grab mags and rifle/carbine and know they will work in any combination everytime. Never had a FTF to date but I know what I like and want out of my mags. P-mags need to be sanded a tad to drop and C-products have to be crammed in the mag well to seat quite often but this is just my experience with them. I haven't bought mags besides retro in quite some time. Don't really need more than a few hundred I wouldn't think. How about just using your tried and true favorite mags to diagnose problem? Change only one thing at a time ammo or mag so you will know what fixed it. Last batch of crap mags I saw were NIW Centers. Good luck! |
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For reliability purposes I will dump the C-Products mags & go with the PMAGs. Wow on the ammo! Sounds like some good stuff. I use mostly Hornady bullets on my re-loads but usually heavier. I own and use $6 C-products mags for plinking. I'm really not a P-mag fan but own plenty and it sounds like a good move. Never had a problem shooting with either but personally never liked the fitment of either one and always have had to do a little work on them to meet my personal mag standards. I want them to install easily and drop easily and feed correctly in all my AR's and I don't believe I've ever purchased either mfg mag that would work in all (10) without some additional finesse. If ever a need an AR quickly I want to be able to grab mags and rifle/carbine and know they will work in any combination everytime. Never had a FTF to date but I know what I like and want out of my mags. P-mags need to be sanded a tad to drop and C-products have to be crammed in the mag well to seat quite often but this is just my experience with them. I haven't bought mags besides retro in quite some time. Don't really need more than a few hundred I wouldn't think. How about just using your tried and true favorite mags to diagnose problem? Change only one thing at a time ammo or mag so you will know what fixed it. Last batch of crap mags I saw were NIW Centers. Good luck! Sanding & fitting the mags seems to be mandatory for all Retros, the XM & A1 I had to sand them to fit. The SGW Hates! & I mean HATES! any plastic mag, it will only use standard aluminum or steel mags. If I was smart I'd sell it to someone in a Pre-Ban state & buy a few Blem lowers from NDS. But then again that would make the Disease kick into high gear for sure.
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FWIW Pmags are loose as a goose in my XM lower. I'll try one in my other lowers, but I've only had 1 or 2 mags that were tight, and one was a friggin Sanchez. (Is that where the term 'Dirty Sanchez' comes from? ) Anyway, as many NDS lowers as I've bought, you'd think I'd have more trouble. Yes, when they are brand new, mags fit a little more tightly, but they seem to drop free fine once the gun is worked in a bit. Maybe time for some 'bedroom commando drills'? Don't forget to wear your ERDL boxers...
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