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Posted: 12/19/2010 5:25:14 PM EDT
| I posted this in the discussions section and was told to come over here with it so here it is. First off I am new to this. I restore muscle cars for a living so I am anal about correctness. My problem, I just acquired a small barrel early AR 15 upper and most of the parts but need a lower. The parts I have are 67-70 era. Through research here I concluded a full fence lower is need for that time period. I then posted in the wanted section for said Colt manufactured lower. II like to use OE parts when I can. A nice gent told me that there were no AR lowers like that only M16 ones. They are auto only therefore no good to me. Is this true? If true then I guess a no dak repro lower is the only option or an A2 which look too different to me. So, if I could be schooled on this I would greatly appreciate it. Sorry for long winded post but I needed to be accurate in my quest for knowledge. Thank you in advance. |
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Colt only used slabside lowers on the SP1, which is the commercial semi-auto AR from that era. So yes, your choices are NoDak Spud or a full auto registered M16 receiver.
ETA: You can have Ident Marking engrave a Colt logo and M16 markings on your NoDak lower if you'd like to make it look more correct. ETA: Ohhhhh... New York.... bummer. |
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You may not like what I have to say, but here it goes.
NoDak Spud makes the correct receiver. But if you use it you will ned to remove the bayonet lug (if it has one) and can not use a flash hider, only brakes on post 1994 rifles. Of course the barrel must be over 16" long. Stock can not collapse either, so you will need to find a fake like the ones from Model 1 sales. Some one else will chime in if there is a pre ban option for you to use. |
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Just wanted to say welcome to the retro forum. If you're anal about details, brother, you've come to the right place!
Let's start with a clarification––you describe your upper as "small barrel". You mean short (length) or profile (thin "pencil" barrel)? Give us as much info as you can about what you've got (photos are always very much appreciated!). What markings can you see on the barrel? On the upper receiver itself? Are the front and rear pin holes on the upper the same size, or is the font hole (for the hinge pin) larger than the back one? Tell us (or show us) what you've got and let's see what recommendations we can offer. Unfortunately, that "NY" near your name is gonna limit the authenticity...but we'll help you get as close as possible. |
| I think Colt did sell small pin uppers and lowers stripped but I could be wrong and they were just disassembled from rifles. Local funshow seller has a few for sale but they are not cheap. I think his business is Larry's Gun Repair (804) 469-5979, not mine. The ones I've seen are marked Colt Target Match but are all Colt, stripped with not the first scratch in a nice Colt grey finish. Although not retro correct they are all Colt and full fence. Would need a FFL transfer to buy one. You can shave the bayonet lug so it won't hold a bayonet (Chop off the ears) and pin the flash hider and cover hole (silver solder works) and touch up. I've got a fake FH out on my deck but it will still need pinning. No big deal. I used to restore muscle cars, bracket race, street race, and build stockers. Welcome to retroland. |
| Another solution is to be lucky enough to find an early 80's A1 configuration pre-ban lower like BFI (Bushmaster), Sendra, SGW (Olympic), RGM or PWA. Good luck, they're a little hard to come by these days, but still out there. I've recently been fortunate to find two pre-ban retro builds, one on a BFI lower and the other on a Sendra lower. |
| So here is some more info as requested. It is a pencil barrel. Markings on it are C MP B. Late 70 to 73 as far as my research took me. The reciver has no markings except the boxed C and the VP. Also the R on the windage dial is sharp. It has a counterbored front hole. Rear is .270" front is .250" w/ a .320" counter. This told me it is from 64 to 70. The FSB has a C cast into it. Why would the bayo lug and flash suppressor have to come off? That seems to be a recurring theme so far. Thanks again for all your help. I am learning. |
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CMPB is from 1971-1974.
You will want to build one of the later 603s. This means you'll want a Type E stock. The molested bayo lug and pinned flash hider have to be done because you live in NY. |
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Quoted:
As far as clip capacity I do not think there is a limit. Looks like the nodak lower is the way I have to go. This maybe more of a PITA than I thought. Man, this ain't a pain––it's a hobby! (Kinda like trying to find original parts for, say, an old Super Bee.  )
Honestly, you'll have an easier time finding parts for a 603 than for most variants. It's just the NY laws that are a pain. I think you're right about the 30rd mags––all I see in the law is prohibition of large capacity mags manufactured after Sep 13, '94. Still, if you're gonna build a 603, you'll want 20rd mags anyway––they just look better! |
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