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Posted: 10/13/2008 11:25:36 AM EDT
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Hey everyone, this is my first post, and i am new to the black rifle, but have many military surplus rifles.. so please be patient with my ignorance h.gif...Im lookin to build my first AR. ( M16a1 M603 repro....i hope...) Im looking at the uppers that Ohio ordnance has for sale. Good price? Good upper? also, nodaks retro A1 lower. for $160.(is there any cheaper?)..what all have you used? other than that i'll be looking for a buttstock/ pistol grip/ charging handle at gunshows.(unless theres a place online to get them cheap! lol. I dont know where to get a bolt/carrier, or all the internals/hardware for the lower. I looked at the thread for repro parts...but got kinda lost. i was wondering if you can get like a package deal with all the little parts i need for the lower....Also will i need any special tools? Again sorry for my ignorance. Im very uneducated on the AR. Thanks, Ethan. |
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Ohio Ordnance Works has some good uppers. That's about the best price you'll find. You might be able to pick one up for about that price on the Equipment Exchange and you'll be able to see the condition. But they're not on too frequently and they go quickly. Nodak Spud's A1 lowers are the gold standard. You won't find any other A1 lowers. You could buy a cheap A2 lower and modify it yourself, but IMHO the Nodak Spud is worth the extra bucks. It just looks like a service lower. As for a charging handle, I believe the A1 used an 'improved' charging handle - which is the current design. So just get a new production and have it anodized in XM Gray. Lower parts kits are a matter of personal opinion but run 55-70. Naval jelly will remove the black paint and make most of the parts a parkerized color, but my plan is to simply Gunkote them to match my upper/lower. Heatnbeat also makes some excellent reproductions of the small parts like mag buttons, mag releases, selectors, etc. If you have to be authentic, you can find Colt parts on the EE from time-to-time. You may also check Gunbroker. Just about any bolt carrier group with forward assist serrations will work fine in an A1 clone, though. Stocks and grips are pretty easy to come by. Gunny's Surplus has some, as does Sir Plus Supply and many other surplus outfits. They are also available on the EE quite a bit. |
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With the nodak lowers you pay a premium for having the features and the color be correct for an early rifle. It you are desperate to save your money, you can buy a standard lower that will fit and function, it just will not look 100% correct. The choice is yours. A standard lower parts kit will contain all of the internals for the lower. There's some good info on putting it all together in this thread in the build it yourself section. The only tools you need are a small hammer and a set of roll-pin punches. |
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I picked up an upper from OOW this past weekend at Knob Creek and I was very pleased with it. Barrel appeared to be all but brand new, the upper had a few scuff marks on it but not enough to cause me to refinish it. Over all the upper was in excellent condition and for $250 I doubt you could do better. I plan on using a NoDak lower and having it engraved with the M16 markings. |
My advice is to get a second job, or break up with your girlfriend, or take up using hard drugs or gambling as either one will be cheaper.  Seriously though, Gunny's also had some uppers but I think they are sold out. I got an OOW and am pretty happy with it except for the finish - luck of the draw, and it may be because I asked for a grey upper if possible. Mine came painted.  (not by them.) I think the upper I got off the EE is also OOW though, and it's beautiful, although a black rearsenal.You cannot go wrong with NDS. Their stuff is beautiful, and if you want it to be 'correct', the only game in town. That being said, lots of guys have built on A2 lowers, and I for one don't think a standard A1 looks too bad on one. I'm building a friend a rifle on an A2 lower, and I expect him to be very happy. It's only after you hang out here long enough to know that you should have a roll pin instead of a rivet, a non-trapdoor instead of trapdoor, no drain holes in your HGs, and the buffer must be an obsolete design for the build you are doing that you really start going nuts.  Don't forget grey LPK parts...Trust me, it's addictive. Good luck keeping it all in one room... 
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Thank you all for being so helpfull and kind to a noob! have Thanks, Ethan. |
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