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Posted: 4/23/2008 11:21:04 PM EDT
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Got my green paint form Kurt and had a few questions 1. How did you prep the stocks before application? 2. How did you apply the paint (airbrush?) 3. Did you have to thin, and if so with what? 4. How many coats applied? 5. How many coats from a single bottle? 6. How long did it take to dry? Any other random tips? TIA CATMLB |
CATMLB...The Question Man...  [j/k!]  I can't help...I just fine-sanded my mottled black stocks and buffed them with white rouge on a 3/4" sewn muslin [no relation to Bin Laden] wheel...  They came out nice...(Pics don't show it)...I'm anxious to see how Delrin responds to buffing... 
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I did mine many years ago, but here's what I remember: Clean stock, scuff the surface with a scotch pad or somthing similar. Remove the rear swivel with a punch, mask the butt pad. Use an airbrush or paint gun. I do see portable, disposable spray bottles on the market now. Thin with enamel thinner. I would do at least two-three coats. A 3 1/2 oz. bottle of paint should cover two stock sets with at least two coats. You can handle in 12-24 hrs., but for maximum hardness let cure for about a month before rough handling. Sorry I can't be more helpful, but my father wouldn't let me go into the family buisness! (I became a surgeon instead) |
| It is worth a try. If you are going to use the rifle often there might be better ways than what I did. When I did mine I asked our body expert and I did it like he said. Maybe there is some new or better stuff out there. I'll do a google search and see if I can find anything. |
I know but inquiring minds want to know.I redid a 1:18 dicast model of the car my dad had when he was in high school, and had a bad reaction between the two paints. Ended up wiping off the majority of the paint that just wouldn't dry then stripped the rest with a dremal. Didn't really want to go through that all again on a larger scale. Thanks for the help everyone |
My mind, too, now that I think of it...VAAR has me thinking about brown AR10 handguards/stocks/grips...and I do have some...No! I have enough projects!  Keep us posted on what you do. That idea/tip on the bumper paint sounds promising...that stuff is flexible, and might be just the thing for the handguards... I did a Trans Am with Dupont Imron; that stuff sticks to plastic very nicely...and steel...and skin... 
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I talked to my friend Gigs at the body shop today and asked him abut the process they use to paint the bumper covers. He said if it's a new unprimed cover they first scuff it with a scotchbrite pad, then they use one of these three products: PPG SU4901, which is a treated sponge, PPG SU4902, which is basically the same product in a treated towell, or PPG SXA1050, which is a can of spray adheasion promoter. Then the primer that is tinted to the base color and finally the paint and clear. If it's a single stage paint the clear is mixed in with the paint. I listed the PPG numbers because that is the brand of paint they use. Martin Seynor or other paint companys will have there own products of this type with different numbers. If the bumper covers come from the factory already primed, they just scuff and paint. The bare covers have an oily film that they exhude untill it is covered with the proper materials or the paint won't stick. Hope this helps.
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Hope this helps, Mark |
I thought about that too. I picked up some cheap brown Krylon primer, and did some other handguards and a stock with black Fusion. The stock turned out nice (Like a glossy black Cadillac fender), but I had to strip the handguards, as the primer and paint built up a little too much, and when I installed them, they chipped around the handguard cap. The primer color would have been right though. I sanded these parts primed with 220 then wet with 400 grit, and the scuffing of the primer left them mottled properly and glossy. |
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