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Posted: 3/12/2015 3:46:33 AM EDT
| Ok, so I've looked at YouTube and Google. I'm pretty confident that once I get the basic function down I could adjust the gas block myself. Here's the deal, I decided to go with an adjustable gas block for my new build. Never used one before but I believe that I understand the basic concept. The problem is that the gas block didn't come with any instructions or suggestions. The thing I'm in the dark about is this, do adjustable gas blocks typically come fully "open", "closed", or with some adjust according to what company you bought it from? Another question, is "righty-tighty" opening up or closing? Sorry if these are remedial or redundant questions, just couldn't find a straight/complete answer. |
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Which adjustable gas block do you have? If you're able to remove the adjustment screw completely, then the direction turned to remove is the direction to open her up.
Load a magazine with just one round and open the gas block port half way (or try to get close to half way). Shoot that one round and see if the bolt locks back on a empty magazine. If it does, close the port by 1/4 turn or one click. Do this until you get a short stroke or the bolt doesn't lock back, then go turn backwards (open) one click. If the bolt doesn't lock back on an empty magazine, open her up until she does. Maybe there's a better way but that's how I do it. |
| I've heard the direction of the ejected case has to do with over or under gassing also. My 7.5" pistol ejects cases about 4 feet away at about 1:30 as if you were standing on the face of the clock and 12 was the way the barrel was pointing. Mine is reliable with WPA and Tula and i haven't had a chance to shoot the better stuff. The brass deflector (steel deflector in my case) is getting dinged up right next to the port. I don't know why the case would be hitting it there. I'm curious which direction the OP's gun is ejecting before and after changing the gas adjustment. expo |
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Quoted:
I've heard the direction of the ejected case has to do with over or under gassing also. My 7.5" pistol ejects cases about 4 feet away at about 1:30 as if you were standing on the face of the clock and 12 was the way the barrel was pointing. Mine is reliable with WPA and Tula and i haven't had a chance to shoot the better stuff. The brass deflector (steel deflector in my case) is getting dinged up right next to the port. I don't know why the case would be hitting it there. I'm curious which direction the OP's gun is ejecting before and after changing the gas adjustment. expo Your gun souds a bit over gassed. I think you could benefit from an adjustable gas block or lmt enhanced carrier. |
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One person here sounds like their method would make the system a little borderline.
Other guy, your weapon is overgassed. If you want to shoot underpowered stuff like Wolf and Tula 223 Rem, probably need to have it overgassed with quality 5.56,which is what I'd use to make adjustments and see where your weapon is really at. People love this pic here! 
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One thing you need to consider with adjustable gas blocks that it seems everyone over looks, is the port size in your barrel.
If you have a .070 port (I am using this size for example only) in your barrel, no matter how much you open your gas block you will never get more gas than what a .070 port can deliver. IF your rifle functions fine with the .070 port then you can reduce the gas amount to decrease the amount of gas, but if your rifle is short stroking or not locking back at .070, then putting on an adjustable gas block will not do anything. Basically, if you do not enlarge the gas port then you can use an adjustable block to decrease gas pressure to soften things a bit but you cannot speed them up. And if your rifle is functioning with the current port size, unless it is grossly over gassed, what is the need for the adjustable block? Point is, is your rifle now functioning properly or not? And if not, what is the problem? |
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Quoted:
One thing you need to consider with adjustable gas blocks that it seems everyone over looks, is the port size in your barrel. If you have a .070 port (I am using this size for example only) in your barrel, no matter how much you open your gas block you will never get more gas than what a .070 port can deliver. IF your rifle functions fine with the .070 port then you can reduce the gas amount to decrease the amount of gas, but if your rifle is short stroking or not locking back at .070, then putting on an adjustable gas block will not do anything. Basically, if you do not enlarge the gas port then you can use an adjustable block to decrease gas pressure to soften things a bit but you cannot speed them up. And if your rifle is functioning with the current port size, unless it is grossly over gassed, what is the need for the adjustable block? Point is, is your rifle now functioning properly or not? And if not, what is the problem? Which brings me to my question (not to hijack), but on a pistol length barrel (10.5") what should the gas port diameter be? ETA: What size would be beneficial to open it up to if it's not at "that" proper size? |
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People love this pic here! I know I do! My pistol ejects at a perfect 4 o'clock, however, that is after the brass bounces off of the shell deflector. I have a carbine buffer/spring/tube, and knowing that a pistol is running at 2.5 times the exit pressure that a carbine does, one would HAVE to assume that the pistol is severely overgassed by design. Are cases supposed to bounce off of the deflector, or fly straight out of the port? |
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