AR Sponsor
Posted: 3/1/2015 4:13:35 PM EDT
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I just finished my first ar pistol build the stats or build specs are posted below,
my issues is failure to feed , (guess my bolt is hauling ass lol) and i need help with or recommendations on which buffer to swap out to weight wise , went to the range just after getting it barreled and its one shot , click ( no shell ) over and over , i was told the timing was off and to get a heavier buffer , but i have no idea which one to grab or where to start weight wise , i dont have the cash for repeated trial and error , so naturally i was thinking i could just snag the t3 buffer , but then was informed to heavy of a buffer could cause ejection problems , been building this gun for a year now , and i just want it to work at this point , thanks Spikes tactical zombie lower Doublestar lpk Mega arms upper Doublestar upk Bcm gunfighter mod 3 charging handle Ares armor reduced friction bcg Guntec mod 3 pistol buffer tube Bcm standard buffer wes guns Ss 8.5 match grade barrel 1/7 Troy claymore muzzle director Strike ind. .750 hex gas block Rms pigtail gas tube Yankee hill lightweight for end Sig tac sb15 
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I was shooting winchester 223 40 grain polymer tip
i never managed to get to the last round , i charge the bolt with first round , pull the trigger it fires the first round ejects the round and goes back into battery , but there will be no round in the chamber i have to charge it every shoot , if i load one round and shoot the bolt will lock open |
| Not exactly sure how far away , i was shooting in a lane with glass on each side the shells are forsure kicking out and hitting the glass to my right kinda tward 3 o clock position , not sure if this help but the nub right behind my port door has shell marks close to the outer tip. My buffer is.a.standard carbine buffer , and im running a pigtail tube which i read mimics the carbine gas tube , so the way i understand i should have techically cloned the standard carbine gas system .. im bummed out at this.point kinda confused but again this is my first one so im not gonna give up .. the armor that barreled my gun told me not to.be suprised if.it.dosent function because of it being 8.5 on the barrel and you really shouldnt go.below 10.2 cause the gas system .. but again i dont know |
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The armorer is a 'tard. There's no reason for a short AR not t work if it's set up correctly. My 8" AR pistol has gone through more than 500 rounds with zero malfunctions.
The first thing you need to do is figure out if your gun is overgassed or undergassed. When the bolt locks back, is it locking on the actual bolt, or the bolt carrier? If you insert a new mag with the bolt locked after firing the last round in a magazine, and press the bolt release, is the first round of the new magazine chambered? Or does the bolt ride forward without chambering a round? Go shoot the gun in an open area where the ejected cases have an unobstructed flight path, and see how far they end up from the gun, and exactly which direction they go. |
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here's another post, 1st pistol with pigtail, one shot, not locking back
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=122&t=508462 new to AR world, but from the reading of these threads, it seems that pigtail will almost do nothing to the timing, it will reduce the pressure in the gas tube though due to increased volume. It can be used if the gas port is over-sized. You may check the gas port to see if they are aligned, and if yes guess a regular gas tube may solve the problem. |
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You are not getting enough gas to cycle the carrier. First try lubing your carrier dripping wet. If that doesn't work check your gas block alignment. After that I would focus on the pigtail and the gas hole size in the barrel.
I would also suggest trying a heavier bullet like a 55gr, 62gr, or 75gr until your AR is properly broken in. |
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Not much info to go on for proper troubleshooting but I will give you one piece of information. You have a standard buffer now. That consists of 3 steel weights with thin rubber pad between. Buy a H3 buffer. It consists of 3 tungsten weights with the pads between them. You can remove the roll pin holding the plastic end on the buffer and remove these weights. Starting with the standard buffer swap out one of the steel weights with one of the tungsten weights from the H3 buffer. This gives you a H buffer. (1 tungsten, 2 steel weights) Swap another of the steel weights out and you have a H2 buffer. (2 tungsten, 1 steel weight) And of course all tungsten weights is back to the H3 buffer. So you can experiment with all the different buffers without the expense of buying all 4 of them. |
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Quoted: No point in doing that crap until we figure out if the gun is overgassed or undergassed. If it's undergassed, increasing the buffer weight will just make the problem worse. The buffer info was just that. Information on how to experiment with different buffers without the cost of buying them all. Not as a solution to the OP's problem. |
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